[diesel4me]

I just purchased a 06 E320 CDI! Do I have to look for any special grade of diesel fuel for this car or can I use whatever is available at the any local service station?

Thanks

 

[H-TownBenzoboy]

As far as I know, there are no "grades" of diesel fuel. Though, you should go to the local truck stop for your fuel if possible. Truck stop diesel fuel is often "fresher" because of higher turnover rates then what you would find at your local gas station. Who knows how long that diesel fuel has been in the underground tank there at the corner store? It may have water and other bad things in it not good for your fuel system.

 

[drivbiwire]

Fuels... More to this than you realize.

The MB CDI is designed for fuels rated at 49 cetane and 15ppm sulfur. Current fuel specs provide considerably lower rated 40 cetane and an astounding 500ppm sulfur!

Both cetane and sulfur will be addressed later this year when the fuel supply finalizes it's transition to ULSD which is what the CDI runs best on.

Higher cetane fuels such as ULSD(49cn), Biodiesel B20 (49-55cn), GTL/Synthetic diesel (75+cn) result in faster ignition, more complete combustion and significant reductions in combustion noise due to smoother pressure rises in the cylinders. Cetane is NOT required to be publised on the pump like Octane is on gasoline grades. If you percieve your engine to be running louder than normal consider using a product called "Power Service" with "Cetane Boost". The Cetane boost is the result of a chemical called 2Ehn which increases the cetane rating and improves the combustion qualities of the fuel. Power Service in the silver bottle will bump Cetane approx 6 points and the winter formulation (has an additional water emulsifier to prevent free water) will bump you about 4 points.

Sulfur, Sulfur causes carbon to bond with the suflur molecule and reduces the amount of energy released during combustion. Because carbon bonds to the sulfur the engine emits higher soot levels out the tail pipe. Higher soot output also increases the stress on the oil which is why Mercedes uses the lowest oil change intervals for US cars limiting us to only 13,000 miles...Europe is able to go upto 19,000 or even 30,000 miles between changes due to ULSD already being sold there.

Sulfur also has the other issue of increased wear on the cylinders from the higher soot as well as possible carbon fouling of the CDI's VNT turbo, EGR sytem and catalytic converter if the car is driven at low loads (babied). If owners are more aggressive with the accelerator pedal, use Comfort mode around town and follow the MB mainteance guidelines by virtue of correct engine oils (MB229.5) the motors will be every bit as reliable if not more than previous MD diesels.

Truck stop fuels generally have high sales and turnover. Diesel does NOT go bad like gasoline. "Fresh Fuel" is a myth and stems from the fact that diesel fuel will absorb water which places greater risk of triggering the CDI's fuel water sensor and requiring a filter replacement.

Truck stops have some of the worst fuel filtering systems, this can lead to more frequent plugging of your CDI's fuel filter. Whatever you do DO NOT neglect to have the fuel filter changed at the required intervals of 26,000 miles! The CDI high pressure fuel pump produces a constant pressure of over 23,500psi 10 times the pressures of older Mercedes Diesel engines! With the CDI fuel system pressures the slightest bit of dirt can turn into a $2,000 repair bill very quickly! Your fuel filter is far and away the most important component when it comes to fuel system reliability and function.

Again consider using a fuel additive like Power Service (silver or white bottle), source fuel stations that have fuel filters that appear to be new and in good working order (always mounted on the side of the fuel pump). Follow the MB servicing guidelines and DON'T baby your motor! Diesels respond VERY well to aggressive driving without the fuel economy penalty!

DB

 

[H-TownBenzoboy]

Truck stop fuels generally have high sales and turnover. Diesel does NOT go bad like gasoline. "Fresh Fuel" is a myth and stems from the fact that diesel fuel will absorb water which places greater risk of triggering the CDI's fuel water sensor and requiring a filter replacement.

Truck stops have some of the worst fuel filtering systems, this can lead to more frequent plugging of your CDI's fuel filter.
DB

This is the first I've ever heard of this. What are your sources?

 

[drivbiwire]

This is the first I've ever heard of this. What are your sources?

Sources: BP Amoco, Exxon Mobil, SAE.org, Shell, ASTM specifications just to name a few...

The expected life of a diesel fuel is indicated by the oxidation stability test ASTM D2276. The test measures how much gum and sediment will be deposited after keeping the fuel at 120°C in the presence of oxygen for 16 hours. It roughly corresponds to one year storage at 25°C. A result of less than 20mg/L of sediment and gum after the test is considered acceptable for normal diesel.

ACCELERATED AGEING
The ageing process can be accelerated by the following conditions:-
• Contact with zinc, copper or metal alloys containing them. These metals will quickly react with diesel fuel to form unstable compounds.
• The presence of water. Water allows the growth of fungus and bacteria, these produce natural by-products such as organic acids which make the fuel unstable.
• Exposure to high temperatures.
• Exposure to dust and dirt which contain trace elements that can destabilise the fuel, such as copper and zinc.

PROLONGING THE STORAGE LIFE

Issued : February 7, 2002 ADF1402
Supersedes : February 14, 2000 Page 2 of 3
BP Amoco
A.C.N. 004 085 616
Marketing Technical Services

• Ensure that the fuel is not in contact with any surfaces containing zinc or copper or compounds containing those metals (eg. brass). If those metals are present then a metal deactivator additive may help.
• Establish a regular fuel maintenance program to ensure that water and dirt is removed from storage tanks. This will also remove any chance for fungus to grow.
• Water should be drained from the storage tanks weekly. The frequency can be extended if the tank shows no tendency to collect water but should be done at least monthly.
• Tanks should be kept full to reduce the space for water to condense, maintaining tanks half full increases the water build up and promotes corrosion in the top half of the tank. Most water will come from condensation as the tank breathes, the rate at which water collects will depend on local climate and will be higher in hot humid coastal areas.
• Tanks should have a well defined low point where water will collect and can be drained. For example, cone down bottoms.
• Establish a system for filtering the contents of the main storage tank through a recirculating filter system. This can be made automatic and will reduce the potential for problems by removing sediment and gums. The filters should be checked and changed at regular intervals. When the filter change interval reaches a certain frequency then the fuel should be changed over.
• Tanks should be emptied and cleaned at least once every 10 years, or more frequently if there is a major contamination.
• Ensure that the fuel supplied conforms to a recognised specification and ensure the fuel matches the winter cloud point for the area to avoid filter blocking by wax drop out in cold weather. .
• Always purchase fuel to replenish stocks in the winter season April - August. This will ensure that the fuel will not cause wax problems whatever season it is used.
• Obtain assurances from the supplier that all components are fully refined to promote stability.
• Establish a monitoring program whereby samples are taken at regular intervals to monitor the condition of the fuel. The samples can be examined at the site visually for evidence of haziness, sediment, darkening or sent to a laboratory for testing.
• Regularly turn the fuel over. If possible, plan the fuel usage so that it will all be used within 1-5 years and replaced with fresh fuel.

Again the primary concern with ALL Diesel fuel is moisture. Contact metals are less of a concern because diesel fuel is stored in Diesel specific fuel tanks where these materials are NOT used. It is accepted that diesel fuel provided moisture is kept in check has a shelf life in excess of 5 years in certain cases. Often fuels stored for stanby generation get anti-microbial dosing to prevent algea and bacterial formation in the fuel. Typically these tank systems are kept full and use a sealed tank system to prevent the absorbtion of water from the air. Also these tanks use summer fuels with maximum BTU content, this presents the problem of gelling during the colder winter months. Fuels are dosed on anti-gel additives to lower the fuels gel point.

DB

 

[drivbiwire]

MB went so far as to integrate a water detection system into the fuel filter. If the system triggers you MUST replace the fuel filter ASAP! Again water is the biggest issue with diesel fuels.

Fuels can vary widely in terms of specifications, Cetane ranges from 30-80, slufur from 0ppm-10,000ppm.

I have a copy of an engineering study done on high pressure fuel systems by CAT. Contamination from dirt and particles in the 5-7 micron range increase wear by a factor of 600-800%! CAT builds a 2 micron absolute filter (98% efficiency for 2 micron particles with a single pass through the filter). These filters are now mounted on all CAT engines to supplement the primary coarse filtration systems and increase the fuel systems life.

If I recall the MB fuel filter has a micron rating of 2-5 microns. This is a spec applied by Bosch for the common rail fuel systems. The filter is not quite as good as the CAT but it is sufficient in combination with the integrated water monitoring system.

Mercedes Benz

Water level sensor attached to top side of filter
uses two electrodes located on bottom portion
of sensor If high water level sensed approx.
50% filter housing capacity, water level indicator in
instrument cluster illuminates

DB

 

[LNL]

DB, thanks for the great posts. I'm in the market for a E320 diesel, and am contemplating either a well priced and loaded used CDI (preferably an '05, if I can find one not too far from St. Louis) or placing an order for the '07 Bluetec. Reading well researched and informative material such as yours really assists me in my decision making process.

Lou

 

[frankhenderson]

I had no idea about all of this. I just got my car on the 1st. Thanks - this is a great message board!

 

[drivbiwire]

It's just my opinion but I would tend to stay away from a used diesel. These are motors that you buy and keep, owners that turn them over in a year or two more than likley did not take care of them the way they need (Not that they need more care, but simply different care). If I were to buy one it would be thru a private party where you could meet and talk to the previous owner to get the scoop. If they can tell you the exact type of oil used verses some guy blurting out "Synthetic" additionaly when the last fuel filter was changed you may have a winner.

I stopped owning gas cars a LONG time ago, gas motors are boring and insulting by virtue of the hopeless inefficiency of an otto-cycle, even my daily driver at work detests benzine... In thrust we trust

DB

 

[H-TownBenzoboy]

Very informative. Thanks!

P.S.- yes, "gassers" are boring. If it don't clatter, then it don't matter.

 

[drivbiwire]

Clatter? Whats that? The CDI is pretty darn quite! Thanks to pilot injection (Two stage injection) the smoother pressure rise of combustion wipes out the "clatter" by not having one big slug of fuel ignite spontaniously in a pre-chamber.

My father is still driving his 300E 2.5 turbo (IDI) and there are 9 other diesel owners in my immediate family.

You guys may enjoy this, it has a little (ok a LOT) of fluff BUT it gets to the point that alternatives already exist and are in fact used around the world today and not just in other countries but in the US as well.

FYI, if you like Daryl Hanna in Kill Bill, you may like this video clip,

Enjoy: http://www.dhlovelife.com/video/Vlog_1.mov

DB

 

[lear31a driver]

It's just my opinion but I would tend to stay away from a used diesel. These are motors that you buy and keep, owners that turn them over in a year or two more than likley did not take care of them the way they need (Not that they need more care, but simply different care). If I were to buy one it would be thru a private party where you could meet and talk to the previous owner to get the scoop. If they can tell you the exact type of oil used verses some guy blurting out "Synthetic" additionaly when the last fuel filter was changed you may have a winner.

I stopped owning gas cars a LONG time ago, gas motors are boring and insulting by virtue of the hopeless inefficiency of an otto-cycle, even my daily driver at work detests benzine... In thrust we trust

DB

DBW ..

I agree with some of your points, generally those referring to mechanical concerns, with great exception to your comments on oil service intervals. Your opinions on the advantages of diesel in general I beg to differ.

First, keep the GE turbines out of the equation, no comparison in the design or operating parameters. This comes not only from an ATP but also an Aeronautical Engineer. Lets not confuse the masses that because the Jet I fly uses a fuel remotely related to diesel and that makes the fuel better.

Second, what most MB diesel owners don't expect are the higher, much higher, service costs. I speak from experience. Owned one, never ever again. Your 37MPG is again over stated, 28-30 is the norm. You'll get that data from MB or C/D.

Third, it's a known quanity that diesel pump prices are going to remain higher than premium fuel prices. As the demand for diesel increases, more light diesel vehicles produced and sold will drive the prices. See the attached from a multi page study by the DOT supplied by fuel futures analysts:

"Conclusion•Diesel prices may not provide as attractive an incentive for LDV drivers as before – •Europe will remain a key area to watch regarding Atlantic Basin diesel market pressures •During the next decade, diesel-fueled LDVs will affect overall U.S. gasoline/distillate price differentials significantly, and thus refinery supply should become a constraint in the near term."

My V8 powered 4 stroke, easier to repair and maintain, MB's have delivered an
acceptable overall MPG of 22. That's a mix of city/highway. I don't worry about water filters, fuel availability or high pressure pumps going south at 65k miles. I leave diesels behind in all driving scenarios except downhill.

Lastly, lets not forget resale. Out here diesels share a limited market, lower resale.

In a year, you'll save about 150 - 200 gallons with the added fuel economy (15000 miles a year). That's $600 a year in fuel costs, but the diesel's entry price is about 2k more than the gas version. So, in four years you'll break even, leaving out the additons of fuel pricing and depreciation. You will suffer a rise in fuel prices during those 4 years. Hopefully the warranty will cover the additional service costs.

I often pass up Diesel MB's going up the Sierras, sit with them in traffic and notice the viabration they endure ... and the last trip I made to the service dept I couldn't help but notice all the CDI's parked in the service area.

I know this will light a fire with all the diesel owners, but DBW ... keep the playing field even. Your statement " gas motors are boring and insulting by virtue of the hopeless inefficiency of an otto-cycle" just really struck a nerve and thus this reply.

 

[H-TownBenzoboy]

Clatter? Whats that? The CDI is pretty darn quite!

Yeah, but I've been up close with one. You can still tell it's a diesel, though it's not as loud as a OM61x is.

 

[H-TownBenzoboy]

Third, it's a known quanity that diesel pump prices are going to remain higher than premium fuel prices. As the demand for diesel increases, more light diesel vehicles produced and sold will drive the prices. See the attached from a multi page study by the DOT supplied by fuel futures analysts:

I've seen a trend here in town that's the exact reverse. I'm now finding diesel fuel for less than regular unleaded for the first time in a good while.

 

[frankhenderson]

I've seen a trend here in town that's the exact reverse. I'm now finding diesel fuel for less than regular unleaded for the first time in a good while.

It's the same here in Florida. Diesel is less than regular unleaded at many stations.

 

[drivbiwire]

Break the cost of driving a diesel down to per mile and everytime it will negate the price differences and it won't even be close. The problem is people equate diesel efficiency to gasoline efficiency and forget the 30-40% greater range per gallon, So what if diesel is $4.00 a gallon and gasoline is still at $3.00, the diesel is still cheaper to run per mile travelled! Fact of the matter is Diesel is returning to it's summer pricing as focus shifts towards lighter fuels. Diesel within a few weeks will be lower than low grade unleaded and giving us the benefit of higher BTU's and the best range potential of the year. Further what makes the mention of that article grossly in error is that if EVERYBODY switched to diesel fuel in overnight our fuel would become cheaper by virtue of 40% less fuel being consumed, FACT not spin to push the flawed California logic.

Another issue I have with the article is that it does not address the ability to change the cracking process to meet the different distilate needs in the course of the year. If the demand shifts to diesel verses gasoline I beg to differ that the price will increase, if anything it will decrease as a result of refining efficiencies from not having to shift production processes to such large extents.

Even if diesel continues to remain at or near premium gasoline prices the 30% greater range negates ALL price differences (comparing 20mpg to 30mpg) and lets face it 35mpg+ is not only documented I have seen it!

The mercedes E320 CDI (2006) does in fact achieve 43mpg verifed by the EPA in their test data, 37 was settled on as a repeatable number. To date only the diesel engines being sold EXCEED EPA estimates when compared to "Hype-Brids". Grant it I don't think any of us here will want to be driving the car at the speeds which get 43mpg in a CDI BUT it is possible. Already I have seen 35mpg on the highway with the A/C running at 75mph. As I have mentioned many times diesels DO NOT return peak efficiency until well into the 60,000+ mile range. Obviously you turn your cars frequently so you never got close to the mileage potential on the cars motor due to short term owernship.

Looking to the future,

Diesel fuel supplies can be supplemented with as high as 20% biodiesel WITHOUT fuel economy penalties or vehicle modification unlike Ethanol when added to gasoline. With Biodiesel run at 100% concentrations 5% penaltys are incurred simply due to lower BTU content verses a staggering 30% hit when an already inefficient gasoline engine tries to run Ethanol! Gas To Liqued or GTL/Synthetic diesel fuels offer great promise and are coming on line rapidly around the world, just look at Africa and the middle east. Getting these up and running offers the ability to produce from Natural gas and coal inexpensive and easily mined sources of superior quality diesel fuels. The GTL process can then switch over to Biomass for the gas source replacing the dependence on coal and natural gas. Because of the lower cost to produce, this will further reduce the burden on an increaseing diesel economy.

GTL goes a step further by allowing reductions in CO2 emissions when producing Bio based synthetic fuels as well as allowing for the production of Aviation Jet fuels without for Gel point issues. Other benefits are higher cracking higher BTU content fuel thus extending the range of current jet aircraft...Thats another topic for another day.

DB

 

[drivbiwire]

Specific Maintenance costs on the CDI are limited to:

-Oil and filter changes every 13,000 miles
-Fuel filter changes every 26,000 miles
-Engine air filter changes every 54,000 miles

BLUETEC:
Ad-blue replenishment (2007) with every oil change ($10.00 est.)

Everything else is identical to the gasoline engines. Diesels are in fact in EVERY regard easier to maintain than a gasoline engine! No spark plugs, no ignition coils, no Throttle body(s).

You need to put the marijane pipe down LOWER RESALE VALUE on a diesel? Check the values on diesels verses gas, diesels (with the exception of the Chevy 350's) have always held HIGHER values REGARDLESS of who makes the car. Heck you want to see impressive price a USED 2004 VW Toureg V10 TDI! They went UP in value! The E320 CDI is projected to retain 65% of its initial sales price after 5 years! The Honda Accord (best non-diesel resale value) is only in the mid 40% range. Not sure where you are getting your numbers but Diesels CANNOT be touched in terms of resale value retention.

By the way you live in California...They don't sell CDI's in California, never have at least not until 2007 anyway so you could not have purchased one. Did you buy one used from out of state and ship it over using the 7500 clause? It would not surprise me the least bit that a diesel would cost more in California, heck they don't even know what a diesel is, much less how to work on them!

What year CDI did you have?
DB

 

[drivbiwire]

By Chris Woodyard, USA TODAY
LOS ANGELES

The unexpected can change depreciation. For instance, 2004 and 2005 Volkswagen models with fuel-efficient diesel engines have appreciated, not depreciated, the past year as gasoline prices climbed, DeBacker says.

The diesel way

The ‘high-maintenance’ myth about diesel cars scares many away. They are cheaper to run, and it’s not just the fuel.

Veeresh Malik, Outlook Money
page 1 of 1


Diesel or petrol? Diesel, I’d say, if you can take the higher initial cost, know a bit about maintenance, can live with some noise and vibration, and do 2,000-plus kilometres a month in the city. I was a card-carrying member of the anti-diesel lobby till about a decade ago; now, I’m a happy convert. And I do about 1,000km.
All else being equal, a diesel car scores over its petrol cousin in the same category. Diesel cars give about 50 per cent better mileage at 30 per cent lower fuel cost. Also, owing to their popularity with taxiwallahs, diesel cars have higher resale values.

Warnings on maintenance, and wear and tear scare away many. But those perceptions are wrong; wear and tear as well as maintenance on diesel cars are comparable with petrol cars. Most diesel carmakers now specify a 10,000km interval between services and engine oil replacement, with minimal checks in the interim. One manufacturer claims that the new-generation engine oils work very well for a good distance in city conditions, but that in towns, factors like dust, weather, and frequent gear changes necessitate earlier oil changes. What about the smoke? Tip: wait for the glow plug to go off before starting the car. It takes only a few seconds. You could also keep the filters and mufflers in good shape–wonderful for fuel economy too–and get the injector nozzles checked for dribbles during servicing.

Now for the noise. While not quite a myth, it should not restrain you from going diesel. This is because refinements in cabin acoustics, anti-vibration dampers and suspension components mean that once the car has run for a few minutes, you can hardly tell from the inside whether it is diesel or petrol. In fact, when cruising the highways, a diesel engine sounds positively better than a straining petrol one.

Fuel quality, that old diesel car owner’s bugbear, has improved to a large extent. I could point to the range of premium fuels available, but their quality, on which I have held forth often enough, remains debatable. What I am talking about is the fact that diesel comes from new, privately owned, and increasingly sophisticated refineries making for visibly better performance. There are a string of these new private-sector filling stations on the highways, which truckers say sell decent-quality diesel.

Owners of diesels are a club of sorts, they have history on the road, hybrids don’t. And with an eye on the past, we have serious questions about the hybrid’s future. The hybrid is a vehicle of science fiction. One can only wonder what sort of episode an owner will encounter when hybrid-drive refuses to kick in. Unfortunately the future cannot be seen in order to answer several begging questions. Where the diesel is proven, questions remain regarding the longevity of the hybrid’s electric motor and batteries. Personally I consider the hybrid to be a “one time use car.” In essence you are the last owner. Why is this you ask? Well, have you priced the cost to replace those high-tech batteries and assorted components? Also, who will be qualified to fix the car 10 years from now when the warranty has run out? Interested buyers should also talk with current owners of high-mileage hybrids about their fuel economy once the batteries lose their ability to hold a charge. It is quite dismal. With all of this you have to wonder if there will be a used market for cars past their warranty period. But today the public stands willing to trade the certainty of high MPG at the pump for uncertainty of a de facto “maintenance balloon note” in the future. In contrast the diesel owner banks on minimal inconvenience at the pump for a long-term future with known results. Given this the choice should be as clear as day.

Diesel Pluses:


Fuel efficient
Cleaner
Durable
Reliable
Convenient
Stylish
Quiet
Plentiful sources for fuel
Roomy
Cheaper to maintain.
Made by a manufacture with a history of diesel motors.
Proven method in the long term
Can run Biodiesel
A normal car

Minuses:


Must remember to use diesel not gas
Not as fast off the line
Misperception as smoky and smelly
Misperception as unreliable
Fuel not available at every gas station
Misperception as loud
Consumers unfamiliar with maintenance and care differences.
Not available new in all markets.

Gasoline Hybrid car pro and cons
Pluses:

Fuel efficient
Environmentally sound
Cheaper fuel costs
Quiet when in electric mode
Positive public image.
Positive image of manufactures
Hybrid transition from gas to electric is seamless
Uses gasoline
Fuel available everywhere
Convenient
Ideal in urban and low speed environments
Stylish
Perception of Eco-Friendly caring owners


Minuses:

Must be serviced at the dealer
Long-term cost of operation is unknown.
Replacement costs of batteries are high
Few owner serviceable/repairable parts
Long-term reliability is unknown
Long-term residual value is unknown
Concessions of comfort and normalcy made for efficient operation
Resale value is unknown
Long-term durability unknown

Just a few RECENT factual tidbits to chew on.
DB

 

[lear31a driver]

Rattled the Diesel cage

DBW...

I figured I'd get about 5 pages of technicals from you, only two .. you let me down.

I owned a '98 300TD, have addresses out of the State of Calif , bought out of state and drove the car for 113,000 miles. Used it as a company vehicle. We had two diesel trucks, a 5000 gallon diesel tank on the shop property which compelled the purchase of a diesel MB. I had seven major repairs done to the engine by MB, most involving the high pressure pump, two involved bearings.

This Californian knows a little something about diesels. I have worked on many, been part of several research projects concerning them and was one of the first to get more than 1400HP out of a diesel 8 for racing. As far as BTU per gallon, cetane vs octane, 2 vs 4 stroke .... I have those bases covered.

Southern states (Florida) are seeing the supply/demand curve skewed. Granted, their per galon price has dropped, but like a penny stock in the OTC:BB, it will bounce around for a while.

DBW ... put 50-100% biodiesel in your CDI .. watch how long it runs before leaks start sprouting. You forgot the corrosive nature of biodiesel to the fuel supply system.

Diesels are more efficient than gas engines, this is a known constant and I am not debating it. They get better MPG, granted. They develop more torque per quanity of fuel used. That is where the comparison ends, period.

You are on the extreme end and as such, you are blind to the drawbacks. Your speculation that diesels will appreciate is just that, speculation. Before you wave your "pro diesel" flag and sign up for another term as "diesel advocate of the year" ... get some facts under your belt. Some of the folks in here might think you actually have the experience to back up your statements. I see a lot of copy and paste, but where is the grounded experience.

I own a 05 3500 GMC with a new generation Diesel, amped with two turbochargers and a high pressure pump. I use it to pull a 15000 pound trailer often up tall grades. I need the torque. I also have a 15 gallon oil sump and two aftermarket filters, two in line fuel filters and a separate water separator. The oil filters come from experience as to what a diesel does to lubricating oil. Go ahead and let your Mobil 1 go to sludge, MB doesn't expect you to own the car for more than 4 years anyway.

Diesels are fine engines, when maintained and cared for far and above their gas counterparts. They will deliver higher MPG, but the economics come out in favor of gas engines most every time. Again, experience speaking .. no cut and paste.

By the way, my last trip in the S500 was almost purely highway, tank to tank. I got 26MPG and at 70MPH, the engine was barely hitting 1700 RPM. Now that is a far cry from straining its power range. Didn't see 40+ MPG, but also didn't worry about the filters at the last pump I used.

Now don't get all pissed and write up another database, a simple GFY will do

 

[drivbiwire]

I owned a '98 300TD, have addresses out of the State of Calif , bought out of state and drove the car for 113,000 miles. Used it as a company vehicle. We had two diesel trucks, a 5000 gallon diesel tank on the shop property which compelled the purchase of a diesel MB. I had seven major repairs done to the engine by MB, most involving the high pressure pump, two involved bearings.

5000 gallon fuel tank + Lack of water monitoring + lack of 2 micron fuel filtration + (maybe) High sulfur + low throughput off-road diesel = Mercedes Benz'z fault for poor reliability and 7 major fuel system repairs? Just wanted to see if I am reading that right...

DBW ... put 50-100% biodiesel in your CDI .. watch how long it runs before leaks start sprouting. You forgot the corrosive nature of biodiesel to the fuel supply system.

Without getting into the specs for European Rapeseed and un-regulated US Soy Based biodiesel, lets just say Bosch already knows B100 can and does work in the CDI WITH approval. The concern for Bosch is the lack of consistent production guidelines leaving greater than 2000ppm unreacted Methanol, higher oxidation (lower stability) as well as a host of other factors. Biodiesel when properly produced has very similar characteristics to #2 diesel fuels, again the key is properly produced...

...15 gallon oil sump and two aftermarket filters...The oil filters come from experience as to what a diesel does to lubricating oil. Go ahead and let your Mobil 1 go to sludge, MB doesn't expect you to own the car for more than 4 years anyway.

You can add all the oil filters in the world and you know what? It aint gonna do a darned thing! You see soot formation occurs in the nanometer range.

ALL modern diesel engine oils contain dispersants prevent the attraction of soot particles to each other, thus soot does not clump and grow beyond the 1 micron range. Typical soot related wear does not manifest itself until you get clumping that exceeds 3-5 microns in size. Where I am going with this? Well, the ABSOLUTE best oil filters out there (Amsoil bypass filters rated at 1 micron near absolute and Oil guard at 2 microns) cannot remove a single Soot particle from your oil (unless of course your oil is clumping in which case your oil is failing). What you have done to your motor is simply diluted the oil to the point that it takes longer to exceed a soot loading limit. Typical CI-4+ oils here in the US are rated at 8% soot loading WITHOUT clumping.

Pay attention here, you strike me as the type that likes to change oil at the first sign of it looking black which is of course a complete waste of resources...then again you like wasting resources given your fetish for gasoline engines the saddest part about your oil system is that with the oversized oil system and your engines small displacement (relative to real diesel engines exceeding 16 cylinders) is not activating the critical additives in your oil until much further down the road, by then you are already changing it. To make matters worse your motors oil is NOT heating up fast enough, additive activation occurs around 80C, the reason why prolonged engine warm up is severly detrimental to the oil and an increase in wear. Slower warming of the oil causes faster/higher TBN depletion rates and an increase in acid formation as a result of soot in the oil (remember sulfur at the core of the particle) mixing with moisture from the mismatched systems volume! Heating the oil up faster reduces the moisture content and extends the oils service life. The fact that you have over-sized your oil system the oil additives not activating is actually increasing your engine wear. Due to the systems volume the oil appears to be working where in fact you are dealing with dilution not protection thus the volume of oil is hiding the damage you are doing to the engine.

When it comes to modern synthetic oils more or more frequent is NOT better! The characteristics of sythetic oil additive packages requires heat and pressure to get them working. Diluting a system beyond what it was designed for simply causes more wear. You are a member of SAE, read up on it!

Diesels are fine engines, when maintained and cared for far and above their gas counterparts. They will deliver higher MPG, but the economics come out in favor of gas engines most every time. Again, experience speaking .. no cut and paste.

Well, based on your use of 15 gallons of oil in an engine that only requires 4 gallons of a 5w40 CI-4+ lube I can understand how the economics plays against your poor choices in engine servicing. Given the fact Mercedes uses 2 gallons and goes 13,000 miles between drains (Oil is certified for 19,000miles/30,000km from the factory). We can blame US dealerships for not using properly rated synthetic oils a few years back (See the $23Million dollar lawsuit) thus why we are limited to 13,000 miles between changes. If the US could come to grips with going 45,000km between oil changes using properly rated lubes imagine how cheap owning a modern vehicle can actually be, Again we can thank the mentality you apearantly share for this situation...

By the way, my last trip in the S500 was almost purely highway, tank to tank. I got 26MPG and at 70MPH, the engine was barely hitting 1700 RPM. Now that is a far cry from straining its power range.

26mpg is what I get romping around town...Trust me it's nothing to brag about! Hell I get 26mpg driving at 110 mph in the CDI Benz and trust me the motor is FAR from straining! I guess you keep confusing your older 300 IDI which used the same low pressure rack system as the original diesels. This motor would in fact struggle up the hills as you suggested, the CDI is a different beast all together! Just today I was driving up the autobahn at 200 clicks outside of Frankfurt...yup in an E320 CDI By the way I even caught the scent of Biodiesel outside the terminal building, guess these oil burners over here really do have it figured out.

DB