[Riggo]

I'm looking to benefit from you diesel owners' experience. My wife's US model 1999 E300 OM606.962/auto tranny diesel sedan [ours since 7/07, 150 k miles, commuter car] has developed the expected ULSD related leak(s). I haven't lifted the intake manifold, but from underneath, leak(s) appear to come from the shut-off valve (SOV) mounted on the Injector Pump (IP) on the driver/injector side of the motor or a nearby o-ring. I have ordered the viton o-ring kit from fryerpower, and am ready to try the 'remove wiper bottle, replace most o-rings' solution in hopes of avoiding more extensive measures. Top of the IP [delivery valves] aren't 'wet,' no apparent leak there. My questions:

1. Should I go ahead and replace the fuel hoses? I've seen the russian diagram - are the six hoses at parts.com [$15.50 each] what I need, will these OEM type hoses hold up to ULSD, and can I do this without removing the intake manifold? I'm seeing different suggestions on the need to replace hoses vis just doing the o-rings.

2. Intercooler. Looking under the manifold, I see grimy residue where what appears to be the aluminum? intercooler pipe connects to a rubber hose/boot heading towards the back of the engine [turbo?]. This is just behind the IP on the drivers'/intake side of the block. One diagram shows a big o-ring at this junction, which is what mine looks like. Anyone have part numbers/sources for the o-ring and boot? Can I replace it without removing the intake manifold? (Doesn't look like its possible to me). If I have to remove the intake manifold to do this, is it worth the effort [and cost for gasket, etc.] just to clean up the boot and ease the fuel o-ring/hose process? [a value judgment, I know ....]. Is the delivery valve leak threat from ULSD such that I should get or borrow the tool and do these o-rings, too?

3. Motor/Tranny Mounts. I have read the threads on this job. My question is this: is there another likely cause of the symptoms? [vibration, particularly when cold, especially in reverse, dissipates at speed]. I've looked at the mounts, no obvious fluid leaks, and the motor doesn't vibrate noticeably at idle or rev'd, in park/brake on, on visual inspection. Is there a better test for motor mount failure or an alternative cause I should investigate? The tranny mount looks like a pain to get to and out? Is it?

FYI, I'm a moderately experienced amateur who has fixed ULSD related leaks and replaced the intercooler boots on our Ford diesel truck, have ramps/floor jack, std. tools, done brake jobs, etc. I expect that like many here, I'm not enthusiastic about paying shop labor rates/hours and elevated parts prices for work I can do [and, hopefully, get some satisfaction & enjoyment doing it myself] in the home garage.

Sorry for the long post, and I appreciate any advice you can give on one or all of the above.

FWIW, operators/moderators, a diesel-specific forum [regardless of body/model] would be a great addition to this excellent site.

 

[Kajtek1]

I am not sure how much ULSD created the leak problem, but I am sure the 11 years of age was the factor.
Do whole clear tubings. Shop around for better prices.
You will have pretty good access to the tubings after pushing the windshield reservoir on side. No removal of manifold necessary, but you have to be good in working by touch.
Engine mounts are very easy to replace on those cars, so I would replace them on any doubt. The only way to determinate them bad is to measure the height, what is impossible without removal.
You might be the first one coming here with inter-cooler boots leak, so I have no answer for this.
Welcome to the forum.

 

[sokoloff]

I agree with Kajtek. If the hoses and mounts are originals, just replace them all. They are overdue. Removing the manifold is not a hard job. We can give you a link to the job if you need it. You have so much better access and sight with it out of the way. All it will cost you is a ten dollar gasket. The O ring kit you are getting should have every O ring you need if you got the right kit. Replace them all. Remember that if you disturb the prefilter that you need to replace that O ring too. If the delivery valve O rings are original, I'd probably do those now too. Some of us have the special socket for the delivery valves for rent. That way you're good for ten years or more. Check the return hoses under the engine cover too.

 

[Riggo]

Len, you're a good salesman, you have convinced me. Please PM me to discuss arrangements to 'rent' your tool [or id someone in the Atlanta area with one I could borrow for a reasonable fee and avoid mailing yours]. I believe the fryer o-ring set includes the delivery valve o-rings. I've seen a link for the manifold removal and delivery valve R&R, but please do post the links if you have 'em handy, for all viewers' benefit. I'll tackle the intercooler boot/o-ring leak while I have the manifold off and post a report. Do you have a suggested source for the crush washers and pre-cut hoses, or a recommendation for hose for me to cut? I see it on the usual parts sites in meter lengths - Have a guesstimate on how much I'll need? One hose looks like it might be a replacement, but I'll check. Thanks.

 

[sokoloff]

Riggo - PM sent.

BTW, new fuel hoses come with O rings. I'm not sure what they are made of now (they used to be butile), but I replaced all of mine with the viton ones from fryerpower when i changed them out.

You can get the delivery valve washers and the correct fuel return hose from your dealer, a discount dealer or one of the WorldPac guys. One meter ought to do it. Should be around $15/meter. Don't forget the manifold gasket.

Here's the link for doing the glow plugs which also gives a description on how to remove the manifold. A search ought to bring up the delivery valve procedure too. Be very aware of the proper torquing procedure for the delivery valves and how careful you need to be about not disturbing their orientation.

Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

 

[Klypher]

I just had my manifold of my 1998 to change a glow plug at which time I changed all the fuel lines while it was all open. After putting it all back together I still had a fuel leak at the solenoid. This is the second one. So I was able to change it by r3emoving the wsher reservoir. I beleive you can get all the lines that way but don't let any young children stand close by to hear your X rated language. The connection system on the hoses with the whoite lock clips is terrible but we are all stuck with it.
Good luck
Klypher

 

[Riggo]

Correction - EGT, not intercooler?

So, I'm looking around and find this thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1419270-egr-problem-99-e300td-3.html

Looking at the diagrams, what I took to be an intercooler boot looks, instead, to be a feelthy dirty EGR valve and leaky o-ring. The pipe back from under the radiator made me think of the intercooler. Of course, the pipe could run from the intercooler to the EGR, right ? So, when I lift the intake manifold, a series of fun tasks presents: replace fuel filter and pre-filter, lines, o-rings, including those on the Injector Pump shut-off valve and delivery valves; clean the EGR valve and replace the big o-ring on it to stop the leak. Anything else I should do with the intake manifold removed? Performance of the vehicle has been fine, other than the recent fuel leak and what appears to be a slight decline in fuel mileage [31+ when first purchased; under 30 on recent tanks]

 

[jet606]

Seems like motor mounts are all over the w210 forums for vibration / going bad. Mine is a 1999 E300 turbo Diesel (100k mi / 165000kms). Mine was vibrating at cold idle pretty good, got even a wee bit worse when after a minute or two the glow plugs kicked off. Was a bit better when engine was warm. I thought for sure based on the forums I read here that I was going to be doing engine mounts soon. This weekend I had the trap oxidizer removed, and replaced with a fabulously welded piece of stainless pipe. What does this have to do with engine vibration? The answer blew me away!!!!!!!!!!

The element inside the trap oxidizer was loose. It was able to slide inside the stainless steel can by about ONE INCH. Remember, the trap oxidizer is mounted almost vertically. When I started the car, I could not believe how smooth and vibration free it ran. Unbelievable. Like a whole new car. Forget replacing engine mounts, run smooth now, even at cold idle. The element inside the soot trap has got to weigh about 2 or 3 pounds. This weight was obviously bouncing around inside the can at idle, sometimes cancelling out the engine vibes, other times (depending on weather the core was topping or bottoming out) amplifying engine vibes.

At higher RPM's I guess the exhaust pressure and faster firing impulses prevented it from bouncing around, cause my vibes were only at idle.

I had now way off knowing the trap oxidizer element was loose. No buzzing, rattling or any other indication.

As for performance increase, I will have to repost in a month or so when I get some MPG established. It does seem like the turbo gets to work 100 or 200 rpm sooner.

 

[xuki]

Hi there. I have the same problem on my 1998 MB 300 TD. Can you take a picture of what you did with your MB, or where the part is located, pls for replay, I would be appriciated.... Sorry for my bad english...

 

[jet606]

Open the hood on your car......locate the turbocharger (on the right side of the engine). Coming out of the turbo, towards the back of the car , is the exhaust pipe. About one foot aft of the turbo, you will see a cannister, about the size of a one quart oil can. That is the trap converter. Depends on where you live and what your local emmission policy for cars is, on how difficult it will be to find someone to remove it, and weld a piece of stainless exhaust pipe in it's place.

If you do find someone who will remove the trap converter, make sure that they remove it in such a manner that it could be reinstalled (ie, leave at least an inch or two of pipe on either end of the trap converter), cause I think they aren't cheap to buy.

As for my mileage, gained about 2 to 3 mpg, running around 32 to 34 mpg now, mostly highway, 20% city. I drive to keep up with the general flow of traffic. Just for the fun of it, I drove like a slowpoke for one tankfull (not blocking the flow of traffic slow, definetly not passing others either), and was rewarded with almost 38mpg. The fun factor of driving the car was unfortunetly not there anymore, so back to the 32-34mpg it is.

 

[xuki]

Very helpfull, thnx, ill try. Best regards...

 

[[email protected]]

I just replaced all the low pressure plastic fuel lines, filters and SOV o ring and could not have done a proper and complete job on my 606.962 without removing the intake manifold. If anyone says they did, they never did the job.

Removing the manifold is very easy two small fasteners one above and one from below plus the intake to head bolts.

With the manifold off you also have easy access to the fuel lines, fuel heater gasket, coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor not to mention replacing the six pressure relief gaskets springs and copper washers on the injection pump

I figured I do not want to do this job again------so I changed out every thing.

Don't go half way and don't buy after market parts----go MB all the way. You will get a very good price from the NC dealer.

And before you button up------make sure you pressure test the system----you don't want to do the job twice!!!

 

[Kajtek1]

I just replaced all the low pressure plastic fuel lines, filters and SOV o ring and could not have done a proper and complete job on my 606.962 without removing the intake manifold. If anyone says they did, they never did the job.

Well. if 2 cars don't count, than I don't care what does
I have my hands trained in precision mechanics, so I do have some advantages, but than it is more problems with removal of old, stiff tubings than with the installation of new, flexible ones. I already mentioned that when I had to redo SOV oring -it was 90 seconds job for me.
I always wash the area well with water on warm engine a day before attempting the job.

 

[[email protected]]

I would love to learn how you got the banjo bolt off the injector to filter line and how you were able to get the thermostate to prefilter line off and change the gasket, let alone remove the two screws holding the SOV to the injector body----------without removing the intake manifold!!!

We are talking about a complete JOB on a 606.962 in a W210

 

[Kajtek1]

I didn't have leaks on banjo connectors so didn't have to worry about replacing them.
Than again, SOV was 90 seconds job. Took me few minutes first time to find on this forum a picture showing bolts placement. Once you know size of the bit-it takes 5 seconds to remove using easy access after pushing washer reservoir aside.

 

[X-2]

Hello guys. I seem to have the same problem but worse. I have a huge puddle of fuel under my W210 E300DT and under the intake manifold it is one leaky and dirty mess. I have no clue where to start. I noticed before this diesel smell was happening when I would shut off the car. I tried driving around at night and the car had no power feeling like it was going to shut off. I was flooring it at one point and it was like nothing. I then let go of the pedal and it worked again like normal till I got home and parked it. I have 73k miles on her. Can someone please guide me in the right direction? I have been searching here all afternoon up until now (almost 5am!) with no luck except this thread which I don't understand:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1331109-606-962-fuel-leak.html


Please help me. Thank you all in advance.

Ecks_Two

 

[[email protected]]

Hello guys. I seem to have the same problem but worse. I have a huge puddle of fuel under my W210 E300DT and under the intake manifold it is one leaky and dirty mess. I have no clue where to start. I noticed before this diesel smell was happening when I would shut off the car. I tried driving around at night and the car had no power feeling like it was going to shut off. I was flooring it at one point and it was like nothing. I then let go of the pedal and it worked again like normal till I got home and parked it. I have 73k miles on her. Can someone please guide me in the right direction? I have been searching here all afternoon up until now (almost 5am!) with no luck except this thread which I don't understand:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1331109-606-962-fuel-leak.html


Please help me. Thank you all in advance.

Ecks_Two

With the car running, the simplest solution is to first open the hood and from above with a lamp look for obvious leaks and determine what is leaking. Then with the car on ramps or on a lift look for leaks from under the car and once again from where!!

You may also want to review the low pressure diesel fuel system diagrams for your car.

This is the easy part----fixing the leak, depending on location, may not be that simple!

But first locate the leak and I am sure you will get help with fixing!!Good luck

 

[Kajtek1]

Search the forum for fuel tubings. Common problem on those aging engines.
About $100 to replace them all.