The Indy says it’s the pressure line and not the rack but how did the rack seals get wet? I just want to make sure I know the problem so that I’m paying for the correct solution.I disagree a bit on priority.
I would do the ball joints first, and would do the control arms while I’m there.
The PS reservoir leak is common and an easy DIY fix, so i’d knock that out of the way.
Then I would replace the rusty idler pulley he mentioned on the serp belt.
The leaky rack does need fixing, but I would probably replace the seals on my own. It’s messy and time-consuming but not excessively difficult. Otherwise, shop around for a non-dealer-priced fix.
The headlight wiring is an extremely common problem and potentially could be repaired with wiring and harness parts, but at 14 years old if the lens is starting to cloud up, I would probably look for the best aftermarket assembly I could find.
I just read the symptoms. There isn’t anything wrong with the rack. I would’ve have bought the car. This car belonged to an older guy then an older woman. It has 89,000 mi on it.LBJ ===> lots of videos on DIY testing.
Jack up the front end with arms hanging. Grab the tire at 12 & 6 position and alternate, pushing in & out. You're looking/feeling for looseness and any excessive movement, clicking/clunking noises for a potential worn out lbj.
Inspecting just the boots for rips tears is a good idea, this visual isn't definitive.
For the 9 & 3 position, the same for excessive play of the tie rod issues, bearings bushings and again visual is needed here for the bushings (as many never, ever change these out).
For the PSR, you feeling any symptoms of a bad one?
I agree. It looks like he angled the camera. I’m exhausted with thisWow..............I think the video with the technician explaining what needs to be done is pretty cool. All repair shops should do this or with the owner present.
The severity of the problem or urgency of the repair is another matter. That has to be determined on certain items. I would of like to see him use a pry bar on some of the suspension parts.
No matter how 'perfect' a seller claims their car is....I always plan on at least $2K in needed repairs they didn't tell me about. That's why I prefer a pre-purchase inspection when possible, so I know what I'm getting myself into.Hey Fellas,
I have an update for you: I decided to get a second opinion. I found a legit Indy about two miles from home. Their master tech worked for MB service for 14 years. They found similar repairs needed except he said the leak was coming from the PS line, not the rack 🙄. They assured me that the rack is fine. They also said the repair was not an emergency because it was a very slow seep. The seemed to think the lower ball joint and control arms are more pressing. They also said the control arms and bushings are a set. MB priced those separately.
Their service guy broke down everything (labor and parts). They provided pics vs. a video (I’ll take it) and they’re 30% cheaper.
They also said the mounts were starting to sag but no replacement recommended yet.
Anyone ever have a PS line issue? I’m going to stress alleviating the PS leak.
Thank you for all of the feedback.
It's a tough old world for sure and sadly there are no free lunches..Very frankly I/m impressed with your dealership's video about the repairs needed ! I would question the need to replace thesteering rack? The headlamp wireing issue looks like some good qualityelectrical tape would cure the problem..Unfortunately all of the labor and parts will cost two arms and a leg..Only possible good news is that the repairs needed are mechanical and easily accessed a good alignment / tire shop can probably handle the work for a lot less banana$...Suggest a second opinion by such..Be thankful that it's not an electronic related diagnostic train ride being suggested / offered by your dealership..My two cents worth and now I'll get off of my soap box....count your blessings..Good luckHi All,
I just copped a 2007 CLS550 w/ 89,000 mi. I did a pre-purchase inspection and the seller fixed the most significant issues: Tie rod, front tires, alignment, and coolant leak from cracked reservoir. A transmission service w/ filter was noted but since it’s general service I decided to take care of it myself. Now, I took it to the dealer post-purchase for a recall, “front parking lamp” warning and bulb is out—(might start another thread), a stuck power steering fluid reservoir cap (I tried everything and the fluid is low so she’s whining like an almost hungry baby), and a creaking noise on turns.
Here’s where your help comes in. I need to decode the dealership advisor bull. This is their recommendations:
My car is solid and in pristine condition - owned by two seniors in Mt. Pleasant, SC. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have bought it. I have over 10 years of DIY experience in Jeep Cherokees and Saabs. This is my first Benz, and I’d rather not toy with her too much since she’s my pleasure ride.
- Front lower ball joints blown out/torn - replace
- Lower control arms - replace
- Front thrust arms (bushings) - replace
- Power steering reservoir - replace
- Power steering rack (seal leak claim) - replace
- Engine & transmission mounts collapsed - replace
- Headlight assembly (due to front parking lamp bulb frayed wiring) - replace
I don’t trust that she has this many issues. Especially since she rides so smooth and I had a good feeling about my purchase.
She’s at the dealer now. Please help me to decipher through the bull so I can move on from their tyranny and lies. Here’s the video:
Thanks, and I’m proud to be here.