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CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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Are you sure it's back in road test mode, or, maybe you have a fault, and every time you connect iCarsoft to read the fault, it's "bug" puts it back in road test mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I know that i have an ESP fault (steering angle sensor), and that puts up that "ESP, visit workshop" message (not the ESP warning light). That is why i ran the scan with the MBII, and went into the roadtest. I have successfully completed the roadtest, per directions, at least 20x! Each time, i have ESP, BAS, SRS and ABS notification in speedo screen, each stating "diagnosing, test" or something like that (not the "visit workshop" notification of a fault). Also, tge ABS warning light is on. I follow the directions of the roadtest including turning on the ESP warning light (from pushing down on ESP OFF button), and EVERY time i have completed test, ALL warnings (esp, bas, sts, abs) and abs light, GO OFF, thus indicating completed roadyest. Only then, the single "ESP, visit workshop" cones back on (because of ongoing SAS fault).

The issue is that, upon turning off engine, and instant, or delayed, restart of engine- ALL WARNINGS AND LIGHT of roadtest, (diagnosis) XOME BACK ON. Like i never did the roadtest in the first place.
?
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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OK, so after you complete the steps and it clears the road test message, you are NOT reconnecting the iCarsoft, but after a restart, the road test message returns? That is something I have never seen. You may need to find someone with SDS to get a better reading of faults and reset the road test status.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
No, im not reconnecting. Im so pissed at the iCarsoft, you might find it alongside the road in pieces! No, im just driving on. Then upon restarting engine- all returns. What is SDS you refernce? I had mechanic run real diagonsis, have some stored faults, stored and currect is steering angle sensor. Thus- attempting roadtest. Planning on replacing SAS, which should take care of current fault. But still- i dont see that even WITH the SAS fault (which gives me the ESP, visit workshop warning), it shouldn't go back into roadtest mode upon restart.
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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SDS = Star Diagnostic System (a.k.a Xentry). It;s MBZ's official shop tool that does all diagnostics, coding, etc. for their cars. Buying it from MBZ is prohibitively expensive (i.e. likely several times the value of a good used CLK). But you can buy a Chinese "clone" version. A turnkey setup pre-installed on a used Dell laptop runs about $400.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Would that be the system auto shop has, that did comprehensive scan. They service alot of Benz, Bentleys, Maz's, etc., so not cherseball wrench turners. I got good full diagnosis. But- still the question- why won't it go out of roadtest? Would their system be able to negate/override/STOP the roadtest?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ive been looking around online. Found posts of people have same, or similar issue. One suggested- bad scanner. Many indicated- that they had "not finished diagnosis", even after roadtest, and system returned after restart, as mine is. They "went back into system" and "completed the test" or something like that, and it cleared. Does that make any sense to you? Should i go back in and restart roadtest, then what? Is there a "complete diagnosis" im failing to hit, or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I was curious, if my shop has the Xentry, SDS, as im sure they do, would it be able to take me out of roadtest diagnosis mode? I tried going back on MBII and clearing all possible, then retaking SAS, roadtest mode. Same result, all cleared, only to return upon restart.
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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I have SDS/Xentry and have not tried this "live", but in "demo" mode , I can start and the cancel a road test.

I think your comment about others with iCarsoft who have fixed this seems to be that they plug in the scanner, specifically initiate the road test, then complete it the the scanner still connected. That's definitely worth a try!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
When replacing sensors, especially Steering angle sensor (airbag), do i need to disconnect negative battery terminal? Or, will just having vehicle off with key out be sufficient. I dont want to set off airbags. Also, what will need to be reset after reinstalling negative terminal? What consequences are there to removal of negitive terminal, or replacing battery in general?

2003 w209 clk320
 

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MY05 CLK55 AMG ,CLK320,Former,C180 Kompressor,Jensen Healey,Ford Capri V6,Alfa GTV.
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You should disconnect the battery,,,,To avoid setting airbags off ,,disconnect battery neg terminal and wait about 20 mins...
When reconnecting ,,make a quick firm contact to minimise sparks,,
You will probably need to reset power windows and sunroof ,,by holding switches up and down for two seconds after stop.
No other consequences ,,usually.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks. Probably stereo and clock too, im sure. Better safe than sorry. Is that with any/all sensors, regardless of location? Or just steering angle sensor under airbag?
 

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MY05 CLK55 AMG ,CLK320,Former,C180 Kompressor,Jensen Healey,Ford Capri V6,Alfa GTV.
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I think you only need to disconnect battery to prevent airbag risk ,,
other sensors-- just have the car off and key out.
Stereo should remember everything ,,,clock may need setting.
 

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Actually, there is no need to disconnect the battery when working on airbags. They are only energized when the ignition is switched on. The only real risk with the battery connected would be to do something very stupid and cross a "hot" 12v wire to the airbag squib. But honestly, you'd really have to try hard to do that. But, by all means, if you feel more comfortable, disconnect the negative battery lead. Nothing bad will happen. You will need to reset the clock (unless you have COMAND, which sets via GPS), and maybe resync the window and sunroof and the steering angle sensor. All of that is covered in the owner's manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I am replacing my Steering Angle Sensor/ clock ring. I did purchase a used part, that does not have that red, "retainer pin" that i see on new parts, and in videos replacing SAS. Im sure thats to hold aligned, or in position, or something. How do I install/position/rotate... in order to align/install properly, as if it was new with red pin? I have found proper "position" with all 3 hex bolts visible thru holes, and this aligns the part, arrow, etc. Do i need to "wind" it to full clockwise, till "snug", then back off? If so, how much do I back off/unwind, counterclockwise, until bolt heads align thru holes. Since wheel lock is 2 1/2 turns to lock, im assuming 3 rotations clockwise, from snug?
 

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It has been a while since I did it. Basically you count the number of rotations (5?) of the angle sensor and back off half of the number (2.5?) from one end. The number of turns may not be exact as you still have to align the mounting holes as I recall. Then install with car wheels pointing straight forward. The purpose is so you don't break the wire coil when turning the steering wheel lock to lock.

When turning angle sensor, don't snug it up to much, you don't want to damage it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks, kinda what i figured. To clockwise it gets tight (i didnt push the tightness), and counterclockwise it loosens (thats what worries me, looked to be unspooling). So find middle ground, align, good to go.
Again, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Does ANYONE, ANYWHERE, is there somewhere available, that i can get a top view schematic or detailed location of sensors and components of a 2003 clk320? Something that would help me locate sensors, without tearing car apart. Ive seen the angled drawing, but it is definatly lacking in detailed location, and limited in sensors listed.
 

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