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D2B update now available.
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Follow up on the audio issue, thus far I think it's the fiber, but not certain. The plan is to do fiber straight from the HU to the amp just like the previous poster, and I'd like to use the existing cable, so I see interior teardown in my future to remove the changer, teleaid and pull the fiber out. Perhaps not the right place to ask, will removing the teleaid entirely without updating the system via SDS create any issues, or should I leave well enough alone? As with many, I don't have access to SDS (need to buy one, recommendations?), but I also know when to be grateful for what is and let sleeping dogs lie....
Thanks everyone.
I’ve got a 2002 ML500 with the blue box. Got it working the other day but it takes about 5-10 minutes (sometime sooner sometimes longer) for the audio to turn on. The amp just clicks away before that. The audio stays on until the car is turned off.
The decoder is connected directly to the power amp with direct D2B cable.
Any idea what this could be?
Seems like the decoder can’t seem to wake the amp up for awhile. It tries and tries then eventually it comes on. I’ve tried tapping the ACC from different sources with the same result. Using the pink wire from connector C to wake up.
The decoder is connected directly to the power amp with direct D2B cable.
Any idea what this could be?
Seems like the decoder can’t seem to wake the amp up for awhile. It tries and tries then eventually it comes on. I’ve tried tapping the ACC from different sources with the same result. Using the pink wire from connector C to wake up.
Removing the TeleAid without reprogramming will definitely cause issues. I tried disconnecting it and I got a permanent loss of traction (triangle) warning.
Were you able to resolve this issue? I have a similar problem the amp continually clicking only I have no audio.
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This is the photo/instructions I received for the d2b-box purchased on Amazon (box I received is actually blk)... this is how mine is wired... no sound at all, the box has power as verified by one red flashing light fiber optic light, amp clicks but nothing more... I know a few have said they resolved issues by running a direct fiber line between just the radio/box and amp, the Mercedes branded jumpers/close loop clips are installed at the tela-aid/phone and CD changer.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
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You'd have to get feedback from members @wallyo and @Sam Cogley, on the DB2 details, or others that have recently played with it.
Thanks for your reply bzadlo!
The direct fiber loop between the amp and the decoder seems to be the only way some have been able to resolve this issue... but currently this decoder lists on Amazon for around $170 + another $40-50 for the fiber loop, a rather high price for something that may or may not utilize the factory amp after install.
The direct fiber loop between the amp and the decoder seems to be the only way some have been able to resolve this issue... but currently this decoder lists on Amazon for around $170 + another $40-50 for the fiber loop, a rather high price for something that may or may not utilize the factory amp after install.
I haven't messed with it. Give me good ol' RCA cables any day of the week, thanks.
Ex 97 S202 C200 + 02 W163 ML320 + 05 A209 CLK500 + 2011 B8 S4
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Toying with this as well and am running into the issue where I don't have sound and can only hear my amp clicking in and out.
I have read that for some, running a direct D2B wire has solved this but my loop seems fine, checks out OK in SDS with the MCS connected.
One thing I have not tried... right now, the radio (MCS) is configured to be the D2B Master with the sound system in 2nd position. I have not tried making the sound system / amp the D2B Master.
Does anyone know if the adapter box is supposed to act as Master vs. Slave? I assume Master and also think most folks wouldn't be able to change this in the first place since it requires SDS?
Any other ideas?
- Disconnected CD changer and TeleAid and connected the two wires with the 0005453384 bypass in both instances
- Removed TeleAid from Airbag control unit configuration
- Removed CD changer and TeleAid from D2B configuration
- Only get clicking from the amp - whether I have the D2B wire plugged into the adapter or not
I have read that for some, running a direct D2B wire has solved this but my loop seems fine, checks out OK in SDS with the MCS connected.
One thing I have not tried... right now, the radio (MCS) is configured to be the D2B Master with the sound system in 2nd position. I have not tried making the sound system / amp the D2B Master.
Does anyone know if the adapter box is supposed to act as Master vs. Slave? I assume Master and also think most folks wouldn't be able to change this in the first place since it requires SDS?
Any other ideas?
Ex 97 S202 C200 + 02 W163 ML320 + 05 A209 CLK500 + 2011 B8 S4
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70 Posts
Update...
After studying some of the D2B specifics... there are max wire lengths for D2B wires with and with one or two couplers involved. If I'm understanding this correctly, the loop from amp to CD changer (with coupler) to TeleAid (with coupler) and back to the head unit is just too long. This might work on the European models that just have a CD changer but no TeleAid.
Like others in this thread, I'm now running a direct wire between the D2B adapter and the amp and it appears to be working. I've only messed with it for a little bit but I also seem to have the issue where sound only starts working after a couple of minutes.
After studying some of the D2B specifics... there are max wire lengths for D2B wires with and with one or two couplers involved. If I'm understanding this correctly, the loop from amp to CD changer (with coupler) to TeleAid (with coupler) and back to the head unit is just too long. This might work on the European models that just have a CD changer but no TeleAid.
Like others in this thread, I'm now running a direct wire between the D2B adapter and the amp and it appears to be working. I've only messed with it for a little bit but I also seem to have the issue where sound only starts working after a couple of minutes.
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Welcome to the forum ixlattice,
Please Complete your Profile by adding the year and model of your car, so it will show next to every future post under your avatar.
I have not and have no desire to mess around with the fiber optic converter boxes. I have one bypass loop to plug in for the removed TeleAid module, the rest of the audio system is just getting entirely replaced.
Just got mine working!!!!! Thanks you so much for this tip about FO cable length. The cable I have was about 15 feet. I just had it coiled up under the dash. It is a direct connection between the decoder and the power amp. I shortened it to about 3 feet and the sound now comes on right away! I had it working before but it sometimes comes on right away but usually after 10-20 min. Sometimes longer. This had been driving me crazy for the last 6 months.
Ex 97 S202 C200 + 02 W163 ML320 + 05 A209 CLK500 + 2011 B8 S4
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70 Posts
Another small-ish update. Even with the direct connection I still had issues where sound sometimes wouldn't come on, sometimes would come on but not stay on.
It looks like a bunch of my issues were actually not related to the adapter, the upgrade, etc. Instead it looks like my amp might have started to go out at about the same time.
I'm currently running an amp (same 4162 Bose amp) out of a 209 and have no issues anymore with sound not coming on or not staying on. The only problem is that I cannot change the variant coding in the Bose amp, so my sub doesn't work, instead I have quite some bias toward the rear doors
. Another 163 Bose amp is already in the mail though.
I'll update again once I have the 163 amp in the car - but so far so good - it's awesome when / once it works!
It looks like a bunch of my issues were actually not related to the adapter, the upgrade, etc. Instead it looks like my amp might have started to go out at about the same time.
I'm currently running an amp (same 4162 Bose amp) out of a 209 and have no issues anymore with sound not coming on or not staying on. The only problem is that I cannot change the variant coding in the Bose amp, so my sub doesn't work, instead I have quite some bias toward the rear doors
. Another 163 Bose amp is already in the mail though.I'll update again once I have the 163 amp in the car - but so far so good - it's awesome when / once it works!
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