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Green '02 E320 Wagon
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570 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm attempting the front CV boot replacement as detailed by many good threads here. I've come up with three questions.

How do I detach the circlip on the outer end of the axle? It's within the outer boot, right? So they want me to pull back the boot, dig through all the grease, and remove the circlip? What IS a circlip and how do I remove it?

How do you safely, gently drive the CV joint off the axle shaft? I see pictures of a socket extender placed in the axle bolt hole. My axle is still on the car, so banging on that with a hammer seems like it could hurt the axle or transmission.


This video seems super helpful to answer my questions. Does this content apply to the W210 axle?

Least importantly: What's the trick to removing the axle? Do you just pull it out? Can I use a forceful tool like a crowbar to pry it? Or should I gently pry it with a screw driver? Hopefully I won't need to take the axle out, but I may need to.

Thanks!
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,318 Posts

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Green '02 E320 Wagon
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570 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info. I had been using two of the three stickied threads, but missed the one about joint disassembly because it's so new.

Raymond, please consider adding this thread to the sticky as well:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1426525-2001-e320-4matic-front-drive-axle.html
It's more clear than the MB shop instructions, though less complete since it doesn't describe CV boot disassembly. I love how the thread rates the difficulty of each step. A little lower in the thread, there's good info about changing ball joints.

Another question:
The MB shop instructions provide torque values for the various nuts. How can I tell if I should use the "yellow" or "silver/blue" torque values? Does this refer to the ring near the base of the ball joint, tie rod end, etc? My tie rods seem to have a green ring, so maybe it has faded.

Thanks again!
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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39,219 Posts
Okay, this looks doable. Both outer sides for under $50?


This is the exact item that the guy bought and the website says that is DOES NOT FIT an E320/430 but he adapted it and has been using them for around a year with no real issues other than fixing a loose clamp.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-614-632-Series-Universal-Quick/dp/B000C10E1W#"]Amazon.com: Dorman HELP! 614-632 C Series Universal Quick Boot Kit: [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@51c9kRBn67L[/ame]

Opinions?
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,318 Posts
Loose clamp meaning grease leaking out :eek:
Split boots are on the market for like 100 years and they never had good reliability.
For 15 minutes of additional labor, why not do it the right way?
That said new technology comes on the market every day, so why don't you try it and get back to us in a year, or 2?
 

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2007 E320 Bluetec, 2008 320ML CDI
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2,455 Posts
I’d say it depends on if the boot(s) is/are split and if so how long and how much grease is gone.
I’m having boots replaced tomorrow on one front half shaft and am gambling that the CV joint is OK. In my case the small end of the outer boot is torn and not much grease has been flung around.
Yours may be different.


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