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1984 500SL (RHD) 160k miles
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have some rust on the far side of the flaps under the vents in front of the windscreen. I have seen people cut out the metal that is normally hidden by the vents in order to get at this. I'm thinking of cutting out and leaving it out (so I can clean in there regularly, keep an eye on the rust).
Can anyone see a problem with this, e.g. might this seemingly unnecessary metal be structural?
If it's just stopping rain from falling in then I can easily just stick some rubber sheet to the mesh where the metal was in order to stop this.

Thoughts?

Cheers.
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,531 Posts
Isn't it better to fix the rust holes? If you can't get at it to weld it use metal glue Fusor 109B works great.Then use POR15 paint for rust treatment and prevention to finish.
 

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1984 500SL (RHD) 160k miles
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Sorry that's what I mean, but I still want to be able to check it doesn't start again, and keep all that drain area clean.
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,531 Posts
Access below grilles.

You get a reasonable "looksee" with the blower motor cover off. Most of the rust I've seen on the forum (including mine) was around the area under the blower motor lower mount (front ones) where there is no drain.Also below the small ridge running horizontally across the top of the scuttle. The only good access is by removing the fresh air flaps from the inside. It's a tricky job mostly because the rubber grommet surrounding the flap where it attaches to the body is usually stuck with crud and/or gasket glue.With the flaps out and the grilles off you have full access to check /fix rust.If you do go this route you need to be careful of the flap grommet when removing the flap. The flap is one piece- flap and frame and there are little nobbles going through the scuutle as well as the hex headed screws.
 

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Registered
1984 500SL (RHD) 160k miles
Joined
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
WOW thanks! So you're saying I can get these flaps off without taking the dash out? Awesome. I haven't quite grasped the method but once I look at it I'm sure it'll make sense. The rust I want to treat is on the far side of those vent flaps, so to get to it I'll need to remove the flaps and cut out the metal.

I already did my blower compartment 2 years ago with a load of JB weld, POR-15, and thin sheet metal:

https://picasaweb.google.com/rodlub/R107EURO84500SLHeaterBlowerChamberRepair?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOj0oOjExrDB9gE&feat=directlink

Will keep you posted.

Cheers.
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,531 Posts
Flap removal.

No need to remove the dash. It's probably best to remove the under dash panels and the glovebox- both easy. Maybe the instrument cluster too but I had mine out anyway ( I took the dash off) so I'm not sure if it's necessary or not.
There are vac pods on each flap inside-quite visible-just remember how the litlle clips attach to the flap. Also remember which vac line goes to which nozzle on the pod. The hex nuts come out easily but the fun starts there. I used a putty knife GENTLY to free up the rubber grommet. You need to be aware of the little rubber teats going through the scuttle too.( see my diagram)You need to carefully free up the grommet or it will tear (been there done that on the first one) and its bloody expensive to replace. You could make one fairly easily though.
I'm sorry- I forget whether the flap comes out to the cabin side or the outside . I think it was the outside but I'll have to look up my notes to be sure.I guess you'll find out anyway.
Good luck.
 

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1984 500SL (RHD) 160k miles
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Superb! Thanks a bunch. Will have a bash and let you know how I get on. Cheers.
 
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