cruise control...what usually breaks
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2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid, 1993 BMW 325i convertible
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6,080 Posts
1) Cruise control amplifier, under the dash, difficult to reachdavid7212 said:
2) Cruise control actuator, in the engine compartment, needs vacuum
3) Brake light connection. Without being able to detect ground, the CC won't engage.
I agree completely with Scott on this and would only add that the specific component most troublesome is the printed circuit card/board in the CC Amp. I have had mine repaired successfully at a local PC repair shop, by an 'old timer' (must have been at least 30!) re-soldering several of the connections on the board that fail over time due to heat and age.ScottinSoCal said:
Bob
Saw this referral in another post...I plan to have it fixed by them in near future...
CRUISE CONTROL FIX IN MORROW BAY
http://gdl-online.com/begin.html
Also, thanks for the brake light tip...I'll have to check that out.
Jo
CRUISE CONTROL FIX IN MORROW BAY
http://gdl-online.com/begin.html
Also, thanks for the brake light tip...I'll have to check that out.
Jo
Hey SunGuy61, I see that you are online. Here's a question I can't seem to find on this site: Where is the cc actuator on my 1982 380SL. I've seen pics of a couple of actuators, but I don't see anything similar under my hood. I did take off the breather to get a better view. Much thanks.
2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid, 1993 BMW 325i convertible
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6,080 Posts
There are only three kinds of actuators that were used on 107s, and one of them couldn't be it. That leaves the other two.
It could be a vacuum operated actuator and that's located at the front of the engine compartment, just behind the driver side headlights. The other is an electrically operated actuator and that's mounted on top of the engine, toward the front on the passenger side. Both of them have a cable coming out and connecting to the throttle linkage.
I think the vacuum units were phases out after 80 or 81. I have lots of CC parts for 80 and under for sale including CC repair CD. Lets see, 2 actuators & 3 or 4 amps. ALL junk in my mind. Only one of the amp is known to be bad.
1982 M-B 380SL, 1998 Ford Taurus, 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours
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365 Posts
I've got a 380SL from '82 myself. I believe the actuator is on the passenger side (U.S. specs of course) on the front of the engine. Remove the air cleaner and you'll see rods going to the throttle body assembly. When I was looking at fixing my cruise control, that was the only thing that looked remotely like what could be it. Mine was the amplifier though. You almost need to be a three armed monkey to replace it.
1982 M-B 380SL, 1998 Ford Taurus, 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours
Joined
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365 Posts
On my '82 380SL, it was the amplifier. Everything else looked good but the amplifier looked rather ratty and original. The amplifier is mounted on the inside of the firewall to the brake master cylinder assembly. I was doing other work to my car at the time though. I had my seats out being reupholstered and my odometer had packed it in. This meant my seats and the steering wheel were out of the car. This gave me plenty of room to work under the dash. I'm not particularly small (read that as fat) but I managed with no trouble
The assembly is mounted with one bolt holding the bracket in the car. The turn signal unit is also on the same bracket. Just unplug the three electrical connections and remove the single bolt. If I remember correctly, it's a 10mm bolt. You can then remove the two screw holding the larger unit to the bracket. That's your amplifier, it's the larger of the two parts. They aren't cheap but my car holds speed just fine now. When you put it all back together, the flasher unit goes towards the outside of the car so it will clear the bellows on the master cylinder. If the plugs don't want to plug in, you probably have something turned around. I had problems with perspective being upside down but it went together fairly well.
To remove the amplifier first take the seat out so you can get in there. The amplifier is almost impossible to remove but the amp is screwed to an aluminum plate if you look closely you can see a 10mm nut if you remove it the entire plate will drop down and you can then easily remove the amplifier. Start to finish 30 to 40 minutes.
Mmm... I avoided removing the seat but it's dependant on your 'flexibility'. Just pull it backwards leave the door open and get in there 'sitting' in the seat upside down. Mmm... depending on your silhouette if you can't squeeze between the seat and the driving wheel just lean on your back on the floor and the other half of the body you leave outside with the door open.
Mmm... Maybe you'd better off removing the seat :-DDDD
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