[RavzSa]

Hi,

I continuously get the following crankshaft sensor error;

065, Post
Crankshaft position sensor : no magnet or teeth no. implausible.

Verify crankshaft position sensor.
Verify signal polarity.
Segments or solenoid at starter ring gear.
Starter = OPERATE -> voltage > 0,4V A.C.
Starter = IDLING -> voltage > 1V A.C.

The car does not show any of the common symptoms of a faulty crankshaft sensor however would this sensor affect cold starts and performance?

 

[plinker17722]

Check the sensor with no key on engine off check CPS cold and then again when hot . 800 ohm to 1200 ohm but check the information first . And also you have a rear sensor - rear of engine and one at the front of engine .

 

[Jayare]

There is only one crankshaft position sensor and it is mounted on the bell housing. They are a pass/fail item.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[plinker17722]

Jayare your right ,,but there is a sensor on the front of this engine,, the camshaft sensor .

 

[RavzSa]

Thanks guys!

Am I correct in saying that this is the crankshaft sensor?

 

[Jayare]

Yes.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[Real1shepherd]

Jayare your right ,,but there is a sensor on the front of this engine,, the camshaft sensor .

Yes, but that's more like a 'test' sensor and will not fail and kill an engine start/run.

Kevin

 

[RavzSa]

OK, so I managed to unbolt the sensor and pull the sensor out from working from the top but while pulling it out I managed to lose the sensor (cable still attached) in between everything else down there.

It's difficult trying to feel around with your hands to find it. Is there an easier way to do this?

Anyone know the part no. for this sensor? EPC lists a few variants....

 

[Real1shepherd]

You test it in place from the EZL port connection.......you don't have to pull it out except to replace. It's a go/no go item. Either it heats up and fails, causing your engine to die, or the engine won't start because it's faulty.

Kevin

 

[Tomas7]

OK, so I managed to unbolt the sensor and pull the sensor out from working from the top but while pulling it out I managed to lose the sensor (cable still attached) in between everything else down there.

It's difficult trying to feel around with your hands to find it. Is there an easier way to do this?

Anyone know the part no. for this sensor? EPC lists a few variants....

Maybe this will help...this is Crank positioning sensor

Mercedes-Benz W124 Camshaft Positioning Sensor Replacement | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Get your car running right again by replacing your crankshaft positioning sensor.

www.pelicanparts.com

 

[RavzSa]

How doe

You test it in place from the EZL port connection.......you don't have to pull it out except to replace. It's a go/no go item. Either it heats up and fails, causing your engine to die, or the engine won't start because it's faulty.

Kevin

Noob question... I know what the EZL is, but do I remove this and test in the connection..?

I'm assuming that this sensor must have some issue as I continuously receive the crankshaft error...

 

[Real1shepherd]

How doe

Noob question... I know what the EZL is, but do I remove this and test in the connection..?

I'm assuming that this sensor must have some issue as I continuously receive the crankshaft error...

NO! Do not remove the EZL at this point. It has a special heat sink paste between it and the metal it mounts to, Follow the sensor up from where it's held on the motor to the EZL....unhook that connection to the EZL. Test as the many threads about this tell you to.

Kevin

 

[RavzSa]

Thanks

Found the connection for the sensor tucked away to the side of the battery.

I took the sensor out of the car and tested it on a multi-meter and did not get any reading (meter was set to the lowest setting, 200ohm). I placed the sensor against a metal surface and re-tested and still did not get a reading.

 

[Real1shepherd]

No....you test the sensor cold in place and again when the engine is hot. Taking it out of the car you're only testing it cold. Sometimes they fail when they heat up.

The idea was to test it in place where it meets the EZL. Plus...you have a four cylinder with obvious differences to the M103/M104. Things are in different places or absent. I have no experience with your engine. And you need to post pics for better help/understanding your particular situation.

Kevin

 

[sbaert]

Set your meter to 1K Ohm and bolt the sensor back in place. You measure from the end of the coaxial wire where it plugs into the EZL.

 

[RavzSa]

 

[RavzSa]

I set the meter to 1K ohm and now getting a reading around 840. I will put it back in the car tomorrow and test when it is cold and hot.

 

[Real1shepherd]

That's a totally different animal than a M103....in the last pic, I have no idea what that is. Hopefully, someone will come along familiar with the 4 cylinder engine management system.

The sensor itself though, looks like a M103 sensor.

Not a NA car...South Africa. Lots of differences.

Kevin

 

[Floobydust]

Last Pic: I believe that is the resistor plug that adjusts the engine timing for things like different grades of gasoline/operating conditions. It looks like this one may may a anti-tamper wire on it.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, occasionally someone will come in here and talk about that device with respect to different operating conditions. Never saw one in the flesh. Probably no NA cars were equipped with that.

Kevin