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1993 300E, 1995 E320
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Discussion Starter #1
Are these gaps in my door seals caused by age and the rubber shrinking? I'm not so concerned with water getting into the car as the car isn't driven in the rain, unless caught in it, but when the windows are closed there is obviously a good amount of noise from air leaking around the gap.

And I know the rubber on the coupes isn't cheap at around $500.00 each for the door seals and close to $2500 to $3000 to replace all the rubber on the doors/windows, but the car will get what it needs. Any aftermarket company making the coupe window seals? I know nothing beats original MB rubber when compared to aftermarket, but for the money I may be willing to try some other brand, except URO.... I went down that route on a W126 chassis and would not spend my money on URO seals ever again.
 

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"Are these gaps in my door seals caused by age and the rubber shrinking?"
The gaps are due to repeated heat-cool cycles, UV light exposure, lack of care, and chemical degredation.

"Any aftermarket company making the coupe window seals?"
I do not know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Part numbers for the various seals. Right around $1,800.00 depending on what I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They are bad enough that I think they are beyond saving. Fortunately it seems the only ones that are really bad are the ones around the top of the door frame where the window seals, unfortunately these are the most expensive ones. I think the others will respond well to a very liberal does of Protectant 303.
 

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European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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W123 Coupe Fun

I recently was told my the M-B Classic Center that these seals are N.L.A.

There's a guy in Israel who sells these and other Coupe rubbers, not uro (crap) brand .

I'm sure that in rust prone TAXachusetts (when I'm from) there are some rusted out W123 coupes you can buy this used rubber from and ever so carefully cut and glue one longer one to make up for the gap that's caused by age shrinking .

There is a kid in Orange County , Ca. who breaks W123's to spares, last Summer he got in a nice blue coupe that was broadsided , he may have the rubbers and he's very affordable, I don't know his name / contact info though.....

Don't give up / despair ~ this is the normal sort of thing all oder car enthusiasts (nutters) deal with, I got that annoying whistle to quit on my car, so can you .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Any idea on who the guy in Israel is and how to get in touch with him? Or more info on the Orange County kid? The issue is not that many coupes were made and anything used is going to be 30ish years old. The on-line MB stores still show them being available???
 

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The on-line MB stores still show them being available???
Many online retailers, including those fronted by M-B dealerships, knowingly list many parts that are not available. In this respect, some are worse than others. The practice has gone on for many years.
 

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European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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W123 Coupe Window Seals

M-B Classic Center can't get them anymore so don't waste too much time asking .

find the correct part numbers (L & R are different, dig) then search E-Bay.de as lots of oddball things pop up in Germany .

I found the guy in Israel by looking for W123 in E-Bay ......

Good luck hunting .
 

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'89 300E Turbo project, ‘85 Audi Coupe Quattro, ‘71 BMW turbo 2002, '73 BMW 2002tii, ‘67 Kaiser M725
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Try calling the Mercedes-Benz dealership up in Anchorage, Alaska. They have a lot of old stock on the shelves. I used to be blown away with the unobtanium I would find there.
 

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1982 300CD
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Tape off the chrome and window glass, and spray it with Flex Seal.
When it dries, you can sand it or leave it rough.

What you have in the picture is nothing. I replaced the rubber in my last coupe and it looked that bad one year later.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The flex seal will fix the cracks, but not the gap in the seal. Unless I take them off and try to treat and stretch them somehow.
 

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1982 300D Turbodiesel (US Spec)
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Getting old seals and cutting a piece that fits the gap does not sound so bad.

I think that stretching the old seals is a bad idea because the halves won’t stay glued for very long and the seal can actually tear in another place. Also, you don’t want to pull and old seal if you plan to reuse it.

If you are patient, you can use something like a black silicone sealant and slowly fill the gap. You will need a few coats and let each of them dry up before adding another coat.. The advantage of that sealant is that you can shape it and smooth the finish, so that it seals and doesn't look bad.

I have repaired a few door seals using that sealant and is very difficult to notice the repair. It also holds up very well. The only precaution is to mask and cover everything you don’t want covered in sealant and cleaning the area well before applying the stuff.
 

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Getting old seals and cutting a piece that fits the gap does not sound so bad.

I think that stretching the old seals is a bad idea because the halves won’t stay glued for very long and the seal can actually tear in another place. Also, you don’t want to pull and old seal if you plan to reuse it.

If you are patient, you can use something like a black silicone sealant and slowly fill the gap. You will need a few coats and let each of them dry up before adding another coat.. The advantage of that sealant is that you can shape it and smooth the finish, so that it seals and doesn't look bad.

I have repaired a few door seals using that sealant and is very difficult to notice the repair. It also holds up very well. The only precaution is to mask and cover everything you don’t want covered in sealant and cleaning the area well before applying the stuff.
I've also repaired door & window seals by adding in filler pieces from other seals, what I do is square off the ends of the original seal then trim down an oversized filler piece from another seal until it is a slightly oversized fit (to allow for any future shrinkage) then I glue it to the ends of the original seal with weather strip adhesive. For clarity, I do this with the seals in place in the vehicle and it usually turns out pretty good.
 

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I remember a number of years ago, there was an aftermarket seller on e-bay who was selling the front and door sections in two pieces and recommended gluing them together before installation. If you can't reposition the rearmost section, then a filler piece sounds interesting.
 

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They are bad enough that I think they are beyond saving. Fortunately it seems the only ones that are really bad are the ones around the top of the door frame where the window seals, unfortunately these are the most expensive ones. I think the others will respond well to a very liberal does of Protectant 303.
Odd that both sides have the exact same gap. Its almost like someone replaced them at one time and made the same error on both sides. I can tell you this, gap withstanding, if my seals looked like those I would be happy. The German ebay auction posted below seems an outstanding offer and price. I may just splurge.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Where? Do tell. Or shoot me a PM if you'd like to keep your find on the QT
 

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I have a full set of the genuine Mercedes lower outer seals aka rails that I will eventually put in the classifieds. 2 of the long straight door window seals and 2 of the odd-shaped quarter window seals. I've only heard regrets after about a year whenever people get any of these seals aftermarket.
 
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