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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok its been a while since I have had anything wrong with the ML . Today I stopped at a local restaurant and when I tried to start the ML all I heard was click click click like a lose battery cable makes . Second attempt it started fine.

Got to gas station and went to start the ML and nada it turns over 1 or 2 times and that's it. Acts like not getting gas. As I read up on the Crankshaft Position sensor symptoms the not getting gas was one indicating CPS problems . I also read if the rpms do not move its another indication of bad cps.

How can I check to see if fuel pump is working ? I know the relay is good as the horn relay and fuel pump relay are the same make and model so i switched them and the horn still works.

I wont be able to get to a code reader till tomorrow if Auto zone will loan theirs out to me as I cant get the truck to them

So I look up my engine number and the last 6 numbers are 082824 Autohausaz says engine number through to 370998 takes the 2 clip style . then am I correct in getting the 2 clip lock style oem
Bosch part # 0261210141 ?

Thanks ahead guys and gals :thumbsup:

C N B
 

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Premium Member
02 ML320 06 ML500
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17,105 Posts
It's quite obvious that you have a battery problem, charging problem, poor battery connection or starter problem, none of which have to do with fuel or CKP issues.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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Clearly you're not an expert mechanic, so why don't you seek professional help? If your engine is not getting gas, it will still turn over many times, but you won't get ignition. Eventually it will turn over slower and slower until you drain the battery. At the end you'll get the clicking noise.

You probably need a new battery. How old is yours?

Forgive me for stating what seems very basic, but this stuff is only obvious if you know something about how engines work.
 

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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
re

I know when a battery is dead . This is NOT a battery problem as it only clicked ONE time after that it did not click anymore. I must have been misunderstood that every time I try to start it it still clicks but it does not. Battery was checked at auto zone and advanced auto and it was fine .

I even tried a jump start from a second vehicle and still nada .

CNB
 

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2000 ML430 (Sold)
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1,209 Posts
Clearly you're not an expert mechanic, so why don't you seek professional help? If your engine is not getting gas, it will still turn over many times, but you won't get ignition. Eventually it will turn over slower and slower until you drain the battery. At the end you'll get the clicking noise.

You probably need a new battery. How old is yours?

Forgive me for stating what seems very basic, but this stuff is only obvious if you know something about how engines work.
Sorry but i gotta say it. Thats one hell of an assholey comment.

The guy is on here seeking help from the forum, which has several expert mechanics, and many people who know something about how engines work.
You dont have to be any type of mechanic, but just an average Do-It-Yourselfer to now how a charging system works and how an engine needs some sort of fuel to run.

Carolina, if i were going at anything, the not expert mechanic but average DIY'er in me thinks its a starter issue.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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Your battery may not be dead, but it may be nearing the end of its life. In this case the voltage is still good when tested, but it drops dramatically during cranking. Taking short trips doesn't allow your battery to recharge enough, then the low voltage starts to affect your electronics.

I have this symptom from time to time (5+ yr old battery), so to manage it I switch off courtesy lighting and don't leave phone chargers plugged into the 12 V sockets.

Your problem could be with your starter, but it sounds electrical. If you can be a bit more specific about the symptoms it would be helpful.
 

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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
re

the comment does not bother me as he probably thought I was getting the clicking noise every time I tried to start the engine but that is not the case.

CNB
 

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2000 ML430 (Sold)
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1,209 Posts
The comment bothered me. People are on here quite often to find answers to various questions, and to get help when needed. I have used this forum hundreds of times for my own ML, and am thankful for the users who help out.
For asking a question on here, i would not want t be told "clearly you are not an expert mechanic, so go to someone who is" just for asking.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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The guy is on here seeking help from the forum, which has several expert mechanics, and many people who know something about how engines work.
From the OP's first description, it would seem helpful to advise him to seek accurate diagnosis rather than replacing functioning parts (like relays, CPS or fuel pump) which takes extra time and wastes money. That's my opinion - I could be wrong.
 

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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
re

question

If the Crankshaft position sensor is bad would the engine keep turning and not fire or will the engine stop turning if no sensor signal or bad signal ?

the engine turns over approx 3 times then stops.

CNB
 

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2000 ML430 (Sold)
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From the OP's first description, it would seem helpful to advise him to seek accurate diagnosis rather than replacing functioning parts (like relays, CPS or fuel pump) which takes extra time and wastes money. That's my opinion - I could be wrong.
It would be more helpful to advise him a way to seek an accurate diagnosis without having to go to a shop, which takes extra time and wastes money.
Thats just my opinion though.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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I'm still not clear on how many times you've started it since the gas station. Did you get it home? Does it start sometimes, and not others? (It hasn't gone click again, right?)

I had a bad CPS - it starts OK cold, but it cuts the engine when it's warm. As it heats up, the resistance increases. But it's intermittent. After a short rest, I could start it again.

Are you turning it to position 3 then releasing? (i.e. "start button" feature) Or are you holding it in position 3 when cranking?
 

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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
re

ok it has not started since the gas station. I had to have it towed home .
I hold the switch all the way position 3 while cranking
no more clicking. while holding in #3 switch position the engine will turn over 3 times then stop. No tach movement .

CNB
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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11,377 Posts
If it's not cranking (or is cranking intermittently) AND the battery is good - then look eslewhere to:

a) S2 starter switch problem. -unlikely.
b) either F1k8 (starter relay) or F1k12 (circuit 15 relay) problem. - quite likely.
c) starter solenoid problem. also possible.

Have you given the starter case a sharp tap with a mallet. Sometimes the 'bendix' mechanism gets stuck.

With the cover off fusebox F1, you should be able to feel both relays working, if a helper turns the ignition switch. Even so, the relay output contacts can be pitted making the relay toast.
 

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2002 ML320, 2003 A160, 2002 ML500, 2018 GLS350d
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ok it has not started since the gas station. I had to have it towed home .
I hold the switch all the way position 3 while cranking
no more clicking. while holding in #3 switch position the engine will turn over 3 times then stop. No tach movement .

CNB
It doesn't sound like a fuel problem.

If you can count the revs, it's turning over slowly so it still could be the battery. If you have a charger, use it for a few hours. Or jumpstart with a donor car and have it run for a few minutes first to get some charge into it.

Those are a couple of things you can try for free. You can also get Roadside to look at it - they may not read your codes, but their advice is free.
 

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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
re

I switched relay k8 with k3 and didn't get any better
so I switched k12 with k26 and the hit several times but did not crank

I made double sure when swapping relays all the numbers matched.

I am in the process of obtaining new relays for k8 and k12 will update with results when they are installed . the relays in the vehicle are oem so maybe they have never been changed ?

any recommendations on replacement relays or should I get from dealership ? which is probably recommended.

Mental note to self purchase spares of relays !!!!!

CNB


If it's not cranking (or is cranking intermittently) AND the battery is good - then look eslewhere to:

a) S2 starter switch problem. -unlikely.
b) either F1k8 (starter relay) or F1k12 (circuit 15 relay) problem. - quite likely.
c) starter solenoid problem. also possible.

Have you given the starter case a sharp tap with a mallet. Sometimes the 'bendix' mechanism gets stuck.

With the cover off fusebox F1, you should be able to feel both relays working, if a helper turns the ignition switch. Even so, the relay output contacts can be pitted making the relay toast.
 

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1998 ML320
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613 Posts
Given your location I'd sneak a peak at the ground posts and connections for corroded connections just to rule that out. That can mimic having a bad battery. My old carb'd Bronco behaved exactly the way you described until I replaced the chassis ground strap from the battery and brass brushed the other connections. Was flawless after. Aside from hard or not starting as you described the cables from the battery would actually get pretty warm. That was the first clue as to what was the cause. And the kicker was one day in a parking lot I smacked the connections with a hammer (no tools and thought it was loose, may have been "slightly" irritated too) that moved the corroded connection just enough and it spun over pretty quick and started. It was just going click prior.

Yes Mr O I really did use a hammer to diagnose and fix it :D
 

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1998 ml-320 stock,oem bug deflector, nerf bars, leather gray upholstery, delivery date 25 nov 97
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
re

the hammer was used GENTLY before the jump start was attempted ;)

Now just waiting on oem relays from autohausaz along with a few extra goodies to equal 50 bucks to save on shipping :D

CNB
 

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2000 ML320, 2003 Mini Cooper
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173 Posts
Your symptom is almost same as mine when I had a CPS problem.

I stopped my truck for the traffic signal and then the engine just stopped. Tried to turn on but didn't work. I tried battery boost and it didn't work. A good guy pulled my truck to the nearest restaurant parking lot. I parked my truck in a parking lot and went to the restaurant for dinner. After the dinner, I tried it again and it worked. After 5 minutes of idling, I stopped the car and then tried it again but failed. Waited a while, then engine turned on again so I drove to the nearest MB dealer. Next day, they found that it was CPS and it happened only when the engine was hot. They also replaced fuel pump relay($18) just in case because they've got many reports that the old fuel pump relays prone to fail.

So it was CPS and fuel pump relay was precautionary.

You can manually test relays if you have 12V source and circuit tester, or by listening carefully if the contacts are working.

Not sure how to test fuel pump, but MB dealer's service report says that they checked and it was OK.

Good luck!
 

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2000 ML430 (Sold)
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1,209 Posts
try the relays but if you switched out working ones and it still made no change, I doubt thats the problem. I'm assuming all of your aux components are working fine ( mcs, windows, lights)?
You said it wouldn't even turn over with a boost, and your battery is checked and good.
I would remove the negative battery cable and pull the starter. Dissasemble as much as possible and look for wear, black soot like substances, or any missing rattling pieces.
If everything looks alright reinstall and hook the negative back up. The time it takes you should make the truck do a complete reset by the time the negative is connected again.

Sent from my GT-I9000M using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
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