Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
1985 2.3 16v euro
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My euro 16 valve was lowered by an unknown before me and I am having rubbing issues. the front brakes were converted to SL brakes (unknown part number) and the wheels are aftermarket to compensate for those. I adjusted my caster as much as possible (away from spec) to compensate for the lack of clearance but i really want to clear up the rubbing issues, she currently has 205/50/16 and the full AMG kit. I am considering shimming the front bumper a little bit, possibly rolling the fender lips, smaller tires, and maybe just evo 2 ing the whole car. I was wondering if anybody had some wisdom to add to my struggle, I cannot even get the camber close to spec, camber kit maybe? (and where can i get a decent one) she runs 1.54 negative which is not too bad considering how low. but she would handle a lot better without the fender drag!! help please!!!!
 

·
Registered
'85 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
Joined
·
4,804 Posts
Some owners are reporting fitament issues with the adustable rear camber arms from Benzboy, beside I would guess that most of the camber issues are up front. To minimize rubbing, before rolling the fenders, try using the plastic washers and bolts that AMG sold to thrust out the fenders a bit. You might be able to get away with just some simple trimming of the plastic fender liner in the front. There's an ongoing search for adjustable front camber plates for the strut tower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
A big thing to keep in mind is the offset of the wheel. If your wheels have a large gap in the clearence areas on the inside (to little offset) then they are prob. set outboard to far making your clearance issue even worse and if the wheels are just to wide (you can only get so much wheel in there even more so if its lowered.) but with the 205s you say are on there they are prob. just 7.5" or so wich is ok. Also keep in mind that all the rear adjustable arms people are making use the top link to adjust and increasing that lenth brings the camber into adjustment range but it pushes the top of the wheel out twards the fender more.

Not sure but MTI might be able to confirm this. I thought I once read that the sportline front lower control arms are a few mm. shorter bringing the bottom of the spindle carrier inboard giving the correct fix to get it back into adj. range.

I wish someone would start making fr/rr lower arms that come in 1,2,3,or4 mm. shorter incroments. And yes sense I have a 16v with only 17x7.5 EVO11 wheels. I would welcome a set of adjustable upper strut mount plates. [:p]
 

·
Registered
1985 2.3 16v euro
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
MTI,

what about making a small spacer to fit in the coil's upper mount. would that effectively lower the spring from the body?? I am going home to my old stomping grounds (a huge mercedes graveyard in oklahoma) I could make a mold from a 190??
I put those cheap spring spacers inbetween my front coils today, cleared up all my rubbing problems but not permanent!! I just want to use my suspension for what it was designed. what about the german racers, would they have some racing application?
any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
1985 2.3 16v euro
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
AIR, the backspacing on my wheels are even spaced to compensate for the SL brakes hiding underneath, they barely fit!!
like i said i did not do it but done now i suppose. I stuck her on the alignment machine and adjusted my caster to proper specs but with the added negative caster my wheels rubbed directly on the front bumper no suspension travel needed. after returning the extreme positive caster I realized my camber is negative 1.5 I am going to try and contact the teile.de guys to see if there are any racing applications to help us!! any thoughts on the spacer under the top coil mount? what about the fender washers MTI was talking about? where can i get those??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
I believe This is what you are refering to and they come in incromental thicknesses. So there is no need to try and make them.

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/tayco/wizard.jsp?partner=tayco&clientid=alloem&baseurl=http://www.alloemautoparts.com/&cookieid=1HX0Z67PY1HX0Z72YH&year=1986&make=MB&model=190-E-003&category=L&part=Coil+Spring+Shim


What I ment by inboard clearences was that the inboard beed of the rim should sit roughly 10-15 mm from rubbing on the strut on the front.

So if your wheels have been chosen by someone so they would clear the calipers and the offset wasn't understood you may need to think about getting different wheels to cure your problem.

Check your clearence at the strut to rim gap and see if it is way to large.

In this case you should probibly test your spare tire on there just to confirm it doesn't fit over the calipers then you will be able to get someting that will so you don't get stranded some day.
 

·
Registered
1985 2.3 16v euro
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much for that link that will save me so much time you have no idea.
I haven't checked my clearance measurements yat but i do know that i have the two piston SL brakes on there, the 107 chassis i think? the wheel sits evenly in there with the added caster and after i put the spacer inbetween the coils i have had no further rubbing! I now just need to find out which increment to choose and i think the problem will be done. getting rid of the coil spacers! I also have to figure out how to mount those backspacers to where they dont cause wheel shake at 40 plus miles an hour. and then a camber kit and then a klasse one kit and then a hundred other things... such goes the mercedes....
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top