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The cluster gauge is dummy gauge, or at least on my 2008 model.
I drove it with temp displayed on climatronic and when going downhill engine cooled down to 75C, the dash gauge did not drop from 82C.
Water pumps can outlast the car, so you never know.
The best preemptive repair is get a new car.
For me a water pump is not a maintenance item....if it ain't broke ,,dont fix it..
For me the water pump is now a maintenace item. If you have a second car to drive, someone to come and get you when you break down, and live near a dealer, dont travel far from home, etc them ok maybe not, but

One very cold and snowy Friday evening and several hundred miles from home, my low coolant warning came on, had to stop at three different connivence stores before i could get even a gallon of distilled water. Found a dealer, 50 miles away, just before closing, they didnt have a pump in stock, werent sure when it would come in because it was during Christmas/New Year holidays and they were backlogged a week so next Friday. So only bought coolant from the dealer. I ordered a pump from FCP while sitting at the dealers. Went to A grocery that was closed but I snuck in through the out door, a self checkout register was lit, so I managed to buy 5 gallons of distilled, by the time I got home at midnight I had used 4.5 gallons. I got the pump Monday dec 31, and put it on, wasn’t too diificult, have to pull the fan. And make sure there is no grime and grit under the high pressure fuel pump. This is why its a maintenance item for me from now on.
 

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Fair enough each to his own ,,,
In 40 years of car ownership ,,mostly all over 10 years old ,,,I have only ever had to replace one water pump ,,,,as designed it started leaking slowly at the weep hole,,,,plenty of warning and time to get a new pump and get organised.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I've had 6 total MB's now, all at least 15 years old or more, and I've also only replaced one water pump ever. It was on a 1995 C220.
 

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Fair enough each to his own ,,,
In 40 years of car ownership ,,mostly all over 10 years old ,,,I have only ever had to replace one water pump ,,,,as designed it started leaking slowly at the weep hole,,,,plenty of warning and time to get a new pump and get organised.
Mine failed at 159,000 miles.
 

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Mine failed at 159,000 miles.
I have you beat by 700 miles. Mine failed at 158,300, approximately 1,500 miles and 30 days after I had the system flushed and new anti freeze installed. My indie also said the pulley's were loose/noisy and just waiting to fail. He also changed the serpentine belt and upper radiator hose.
Mike T.
 

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I have you beat by 700 miles. Mine failed at 158,300, approximately 1,500 miles and 30 days after I had the system flushed and new anti freeze installed. My indie also said the pulley's were loose/noisy and just waiting to fail. He also changed the serpentine belt and upper radiator hose.
Mike T.

Replaced both idler pulleys 141800 mi 5/14/2018
Belt tensioner and Belt 141102 mi. 4/25/2018

First I replaced just the tensioner pulley as it wobbled badly and a shreading belt, I noticed the belt not tracking straight, starting to lose a rib a couple of weeks later and so the whole tensioner and another new belt under warranty, one idler had slop, ordered the idlers to be safe.
 

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I have a E320 Wagon, 2001 with 193,000 miles and regularly replace coolant. I have not replaced any water hoses or water pump. Taking a 500 mile road trip and do not want a break down in August 2019 heat. To feel safe I am taking to local mechanic for cooling system service:

* Coolant Change, replace with MB genuine
* Replace coolant tank and vent hose
* Replace thermostat
* Replace water pump
* Replace water hoses

If you have any advice, please let me know. Thanks!
 

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I have a E320 Wagon, 2001 with 193,000 miles and regularly replace coolant. I have not replaced any water hoses or water pump. Taking a 500 mile road trip and do not want a break down in August 2019 heat. To feel safe I am taking to local mechanic for cooling system service:

* Coolant Change, replace with MB genuine
* Replace coolant tank and vent hose
* Replace thermostat
* Replace water pump
* Replace water hoses

If you have any advice, please let me know. Thanks!
If it were me, I wouldn't replace the water pump if it has been operating correctly. If it makes you feel better, you could buy a new genuine MB pump and carry it in your trunk.
 

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The same reason why people that live in extremely cold climates block off part off their grill or radiator. Too much cooling is not good. The thermostat won't be able to keep up with the extra unneeded cooling.

How do you explain the E320's not over heating? If the radiator was too small then why hasn't anyone had a problem?
The thermostat is closed until the engine temp comes up, meaning the radiator is bypassed until the engine temp nears 93C.

IN very cold weather vehicles with cardboard or covers over radiator do it for warmer cabin heat, another radiator in the loop, couldnt get enough cabin heat.

When my thermostat was malfunctioning, the gauge would read 0—15C, when it was below 0F.
 

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The thermostat is closed until the engine temp comes up, meaning the radiator is bypassed until the engine temp nears 93C.
The thermostat on the M112 is 87c, not 93c. The thermostat begins to open long before it reaches 87c. It is fully open at 87c.
 

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Why not? What exactly is wrong with it? Is the Mercedes cooling system made out of some material that isn't found in any other car? Please explain.

That's odd. My 2 Volvo and 3 Mercedes use the same generic green coolant and never encountered any build up. Here's the inside 16mm radiator I just pulled from the E320. I don't see any green build up. Do you?
Has to do with chemical composition with coolant already in the engine. Of course, you could flush the coolant with distilled water and eliminate that problem, but apparently (from what I've read) there is additional corrosion resistance that the Xerex G-05 or the MB G-48 have that has greater compatibility with the metals and/or other materials in the engine.

I do know that Ford Power Stroke Diesels of this same era also call for G-05 coolant. That tells me that the G-48 should also work very nicely in those engines.

Since both G-05 and G-48 are relatively affordable, I see no reason why I shouldn't go with the manufacturer's recommendations for coolant type.
 

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The thermostat on the M112 is 87c, not 93c. The thermostat begins to open long before it reaches 87c. It is fully open at 87c.
That's interesting...it appears that on both the M113's and the OM648's, it's 95c. That's when I see the temperature stop rising. Aren't the M112's closely related to the M113's?
 
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