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· Registered
2003 SL 350
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The reason to why i am looking at the fan is because all components in the cooling system work except for the fan when the car is overheating,

-So i checked the ETS and changed it and the wiring,
-flushed out the coolant and topped it off, seems to be fine.
-checked the thermostat, with the hot pipe cold pipe method and it does seem to work,
-the only thing that dsnt work is the Fan when the car is overheating,
-this could mean we have a bad Fan Control module or The ECM is not communicating with Fan?

if i am missing something please let me know.

and also thank you for the legends as well, how can i get my hands on these diagrams?
 

· Registered
Dallas, Texas
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13,445 Posts
so it

so it runs up to about 90+ C* and when i check the fan it dsnt kick in. i usually turn it of just to be safe and not overheat the engine.
regarding the scan, i still did not receive my tool yet still waiting on it.
Clarify. 90C+ has range of 90-99C. If it gets to 110C without fan kicking in then we have a problem.
Let's pause it until you can scan and display actual values.
 

· Registered
Dallas, Texas
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13,445 Posts
Are we talking about the same car that has a burned wiring harness and BCM? Just wanted to confirm
Yes, we are.
 

· Registered
95 SL600
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1,665 Posts
Really confused as to why this discussion about this problem is taking place when the wiring and battery control module look like that? Fix the burned cut wiring, and then tackle this. I would bet if it was repaired this problem may disappear.
 

· Registered
2003 SL 350
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Clarify. 90C+ has range of 90-99C. If it gets to 110C without fan kicking in then we have a problem.
Let's pause it until you can scan and display actual values.
it got to about 100 C* and it still ddnt kick in

Really confused as to why this discussion about this problem is taking place when the wiring and battery control module look like that? Fix the burned cut wiring, and then tackle this. I would bet if it was repaired this problem may disappear.
this is where i am at with the build rn, sourcing out the parts is the issue i am facing, does anyone have the part number for the wiring harness?
 

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95 SL600
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1,665 Posts
I believe it’s part of the whole harness, which you more than likely will pay dearly for. The next issue is that to replace that harness you will have to disassemble the whole car, and when I say that I mean it. The main wiring harness for the car is about 35’ stretched out. When this happens to a car that is in good condition, it is a total insurance loss. The best you may be able to do is splice a used one in or repair the one you have.

Upon looking at your carnage, it appears that the wiring is actually in decent looking condition, but the BCM is the culprit. I would suggest starting there and using quality solder waterproof splices with waterproof shrink wrap outside.

You can try a used BCM , but there is no way visually that one can verify it’s good. The wiring harness replacement is really the last resort, unless the car is in outstanding condition otherwise, but I suspect it isn’t.
 

· Registered
2005 SL 500 R230
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528 Posts
+1 on splicing a new section in. You should be able to buy it second hand.

Work through each wire in turn with dual-wall heatshrink, with the bare wires laying neat and smooth and flat before you solder each one in turn, so sharp strands don't poke through the heat shrink when you're done.
 

· Registered
2003 SL 350
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37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I believe it’s part of the whole harness, which you more than likely will pay dearly for. The next issue is that to replace that harness you will have to disassemble the whole car, and when I say that I mean it. The main wiring harness for the car is about 35’ stretched out. When this happens to a car that is in good condition, it is a total insurance loss. The best you may be able to do is splice a used one in or repair the one you have.

Upon looking at your carnage, it appears that the wiring is actually in decent looking condition, but the BCM is the culprit. I would suggest starting there and using quality solder waterproof splices with waterproof shrink wrap outside.

You can try a used BCM , but there is no way visually that one can verify it’s good. The wiring harness replacement is really the last resort, unless the car is in outstanding condition otherwise, but I suspect it isn’t.
the harness does seem to be in okay condition, its just the wires to the BCM have been cut of, i am in the process of looking for a used BCM and also a Wiring harness. once i get that hopefully its smooth sailing from there(which i know is never the case).

i appreciate the great advice from all of you.
 
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