Coolant temperature light wont turn off
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The car seems to run fine. but due to it overheating i cant drive pretty far
I haven't checked yet still a newbie not enough tools on the shelf 😂
i am starting to think my previous sensor had no issues but the workshop had no idea what they were doing and just asked me to swap it out. but to answer your question. i can see the temperature in the cluster rise.
What scanner would you suggest i get? something inexpensive but goodEngine coolant thermostat starts opening at ~87C, fully open at ~102C. Without ac suction fan comes on at ~100C.
Scanner that you ordered will not even scratch the surface of R230. You have network of 25+ control modules and you need to access them all. That includes reading faults and actual values.
Computers/Controllers
Sorry if this is redundant. I would like to know how many computers or controllers a 2005 SL 600 has, what they control, and their locations. I'm trying to sort out some operating deficiencies and don't know where to check first for an assortment of issues. Any help is appreciated.www.benzworld.org
If you have decent modern smart phone start with Autel AP200. It will read faults and display live data from all R230 modules.
SL500 R230 20004
Purchased SL500 last week. Roof wouldn't open and boot lid wouldn't stay up. Was told that battery was low and a good drive would charge battery, that is battery in boot. Drove car 200km home. No issues until I got of motorway with 2.5k to get home. Big red battery appeared in left dial and...
www.benzworld.org
Update... first of all i would like to say a big thanks to you all for helping me out and giving a different perspective on diagnosing the Merc.
I was doing a little research on the car and i came across the battery control module being a huge problem with the r230.. upon purchasing the car, the trunk did not open.. so i made it my mission to open it.. just added a little bit of loosener and the key popped it open...
I was shocked when i found the area in which the BCM is supposed to be, has burn marks... the BCM is not there and also all the vacuum lines for the PSE are Snipped hence why the Central locking isnt working.
In conclusion, the BCM and its wiring harness are missing and i am left with a burnt carpet mark.. i will remove all panels when i am free today to try and find the damages..
Does this have any play with my issues, also do i work on the BCM first then everything else in the vehicle?
cheers!
I was doing a little research on the car and i came across the battery control module being a huge problem with the r230.. upon purchasing the car, the trunk did not open.. so i made it my mission to open it.. just added a little bit of loosener and the key popped it open...
I was shocked when i found the area in which the BCM is supposed to be, has burn marks... the BCM is not there and also all the vacuum lines for the PSE are Snipped hence why the Central locking isnt working.
In conclusion, the BCM and its wiring harness are missing and i am left with a burnt carpet mark.. i will remove all panels when i am free today to try and find the damages..
Does this have any play with my issues, also do i work on the BCM first then everything else in the vehicle?
cheers!
They have been known to catch fire, which is probably why someone took it out. Without a working BCM your starter battery won't charge, and the dual battery system won't work. Its essential function is to ensure the front battery never discharges, always allowing you to start the car.
If water got into the boot at some stage then the PSE pump is probably toast. I would be buying a second hand pump and BCM from a wrecker's. They should be your first concerns.
I would still think your fan control module is the culprit, but fixing the BCM first is the go.
If water got into the boot at some stage then the PSE pump is probably toast. I would be buying a second hand pump and BCM from a wrecker's. They should be your first concerns.
I would still think your fan control module is the culprit, but fixing the BCM first is the go.
Appreciate the direction and help. i will work on getting the BCM.
the other problem is that the wiring harness connecting to the BCM is nowhere to be found and have no idea what it looks like.
thank you.
the other problem is that the wiring harness connecting to the BCM is nowhere to be found and have no idea what it looks like.
will work on these and hopefully, the issue will be fixed.
thank you.
I'm sorry about your story. With the BCM gone, those burn marks and it's wiring missing and cut out pneumatic lines (perhaps scorched or molten) your seller is a crook not telling you. Without extensive knowledge about the car it would be a gargantuan task to fix things properly. Selling and taking your loss really ought to be one of your options. 
This is a hard pill to swallow as i am so invested in the car already 😂 😂. a big part of me wants to accept the challenge and be okay with taking a loss with the car as long as i can bring it back to 100% as an achievement... but at the same time, you are giving a valid point.I'm sorry about your story. With the BCM gone, those burn marks and it's wiring missing and cut out pneumatic lines (perhaps scorched or molten) your seller is a crook not telling you. Without extensive knowledge about the car it would be a gargantuan task to fix things properly. Selling and taking your loss really ought to be one of your options.
Why not post up some photos of the damage so we can see what's missing?
I don't know how many wreckers there are around in your part of the world, but if you want to persist it should all be rebuildable with second hand parts.
The value of the car will be determined by the interior and body condition, largely. The ancillaries we're discussing can be put back together for not too great a cost. If the body and interior are poor then it might be one you chalk up to experience.
I don't know how many wreckers there are around in your part of the world, but if you want to persist it should all be rebuildable with second hand parts.
The value of the car will be determined by the interior and body condition, largely. The ancillaries we're discussing can be put back together for not too great a cost. If the body and interior are poor then it might be one you chalk up to experience.
Dear Witek_M - new to the forum after buying an amazing SL500 2003 R230 and would like to ask you a question re manuals and information. Thanks
Joe
quick update and also assistance needed,i got myself a multimeter to test if my cooling fan module is working or not before i go and cough out money to get a new one. but i do not know what is the correct resistance value for a working module also how do i get my hands on a sheet like that with all the components and also their values and so on?
i plugged in my multimeter to the fan control module and got a resistance of 0.0. now i don't know if i was measuring the resistance at the correct spot. ill attach an image to show you where i was measuring from and maybe you can tell me if i am doing it right or wrong.
i hope i made sense here and u understood what i was getting at.
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cheers
i plugged in my multimeter to the fan control module and got a resistance of 0.0. now i don't know if i was measuring the resistance at the correct spot. ill attach an image to show you where i was measuring from and maybe you can tell me if i am doing it right or wrong.
i hope i made sense here and u understood what i was getting at.
cheers
Here is section of diagram for suction fan M4/7.
Test for 1, 2, 3 done in connector leading to the fan. Pin 4 signal can only be tested with connector plugged in using back probe method. There are no valid resistance checks in fan controller.
Pin 1 ground
Pin 2 feed from F32 fuse 1. 12V at all times.
Pin 3 feed from K40/4 fuse 49. 12V with key in position 2.
Pin 4 PWM signal from ECU.
1- 1.9V fan not running
2-4V with AC on. Refrigerant pressure dependent.
2.5-12.5V with coolant temp above 89C.
Test for 1, 2, 3 done in connector leading to the fan. Pin 4 signal can only be tested with connector plugged in using back probe method. There are no valid resistance checks in fan controller.
Pin 1 ground
Pin 2 feed from F32 fuse 1. 12V at all times.
Pin 3 feed from K40/4 fuse 49. 12V with key in position 2.
Pin 4 PWM signal from ECU.
1- 1.9V fan not running
2-4V with AC on. Refrigerant pressure dependent.
2.5-12.5V with coolant temp above 89C.
Attachments
Thank you very much for the diagram, as a beginner i was staring at the diagram for over 2 hours trying to understand what is going on. but i think i got a lil ssmthn from this.
a few questions if you dont mind me asking.
i am assuming the K40/4 is a fuse/relay, i would like to know where its located if you dont mind.
also what is the X35/15(computer perhaps?).
and lastly, to my understanding, the YEBU wire is entering pin 39 of the ECM?
many thanks in advance for the help.
a few questions if you dont mind me asking.
i am assuming the K40/4 is a fuse/relay, i would like to know where its located if you dont mind.
also what is the X35/15(computer perhaps?).
and lastly, to my understanding, the YEBU wire is entering pin 39 of the ECM?
many thanks in advance for the help.
Before we go any further with this.
In post #1 you have stated that fan goes full speed with ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor disconnected.
Then in post #17 you have stated: The AC works and if i turn on the Ac the fan does work.
Why are we looking at the fan?
Give me few minutes I will post legend to that diagram.
In post #1 you have stated that fan goes full speed with ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor disconnected.
Then in post #17 you have stated: The AC works and if i turn on the Ac the fan does work.
Why are we looking at the fan?
Give me few minutes I will post legend to that diagram.
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