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2005 CLK 500
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Discussion Starter #1
Happy July 4th to you all... was wondering if anyone could give me some info on what I need to replace my control arms... I have a MY 2005 CLK 500 and was told I needed lower control arms. I ignored it for a while as I was having no issues with my car. Fast forward a few months later and now my car shakes when I go over 55mph... So I was figuring since the lower control arms on both sides need replacement why not replace the upper control arms because I'm sure those are in tough shape also.
1- What brands do you guys recommend?
2- Where should i purchase them?
I've seen full sets on eBay that have upper,lower, and sway bars for under $200... THe brand is GES parts... (pic below) Are these any good? I'm assuming for that price it's a bit sketchy... also whatever brand I decide to get does that pic tell me everything I need to replace? Or are there more parts? I'm asking because I went to one auto shop and was told that if I get the parts they'll install it..
I've also gotten a separate estimate from a different mechanic for $750 to get the job completely done with them ordering the parts...
 

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1983 DIY 500 SE 117.963..5-liter V8, 1994 DIY E420 5-liter M119.960..V8, '09 CLK550 5.5-liter M273
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338 Posts
Generally speaking I would only ever consider buying anything from Ebay or Amazon IF there was absolutely no alternative supplier to be found anywhere on the globe.

I foolishly attempted to make a $20 credit card purchase from Amazon a while back, whereupon my credit card details were stolen instantly, which fortunately caused my bank to block the card. To cut a long story short that failed transaction cost me a return airfare to the UK, and hotel bills for a few days, while I sorted out the debacle caused by Scamazon.

Much later, I attempted to make a small PayPal purchase on Ebay, only to have the purchase rejected for no logical reason, with the consequence that PayPal summarily blocked my account until I jumped through the usual hoops to prove my identity. I would only ever buy from either of those two scam websites using a disposable and untraceable Visa or Mastercard bought at the checkout stand of Target or some such place. I have nothing but utter contempt for Schemebay and scamazon, to put it very mildly.

With that rant out of the way, I would highly recommend buying parts for your car from Pelican Parts. They offer reliable OEM Merc parts, alongside more costly branded Mercedes parts, and they deliver your order promptly and with no mistakes.

Pelican Parts also publishes highly detailed and illustrated guides to help DIY mechanics work on their cars, and no, I have no affiliation whatsoever with that outfit, other than being a loyal customer for the past few years.
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550, 2011 C300 FORMER: ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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I would definitely replace all four front control arms together. The "upper" arm is also called Torque Strut and it uses a fluid-filled bushing on the frame. It cracks and leaks and then you get poor handling and the alignment goes out of camber specs.

Given that these control arms determine the camber alignment, I'd go with quality parts. I used Lemfoerder, which is made in Germany and is the OEM for MBZ. Shop around and you should be able to get them for under $400. I think when I bought mine, partsgeek had the best price with a coupon. Other places to check include pelican parts, autohausaz, rmeuropean, eeuroparts, rock auto, etc.

Make sure you get an alignment after the job. Theoretically, camber and caster should be in spec after new control arms, but sometimes a wreck or even just bad bumps can throw it out. Without special bolts to adjust camber, all they can do is a toe alignment, but that can also be affected by the new arms, and just wear on the tie rod joints over time.
 

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2008 AMG CLK63 Conv., 2012 R350 4-Matic, Wife's 2015 C300 sedan
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Why cant you just replace the bushings like 20 years ago?? Grrr....
 

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The bushings can be replaced, but it is more labor to do so. Plus, the ball joints can only be replaced with new control arms.
 

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While your control arms very well may need replacing, I would also consider also doing the inner and outer tie rod ends while in there. A worn tie rod end can cause a severe shudder also. The tie rod ends are not shown in your picture.
 

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2008 AMG CLK63 Conv., 2012 R350 4-Matic, Wife's 2015 C300 sedan
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The bushings can be replaced, but it is more labor to do so. Plus, the ball joints can only be replaced with new control arms.
Ahh... My labor is free.


Shame about the ball joints....

Wife's 350 needs a full set on the starboard side after the fixed the A/C by running over one of those concrete lane divider strips. Plus the starboard front shock. Guess I will be doing both sides and replacing the rear shocks and tie rod ends while I'm at it.
 

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Just a heads-up if you decide to use that "free labor" - the bushings are a MAJOR chore to replace. Shops that do this professionally have special tools that press them in an out. If you DIY, the best thing to do is put the whole thing in the freezer overnight, along with the new bushing. Then use a torch (as in fire, not a British flashlight) to heat the arm so that the bushing can be hammered out and the new one inserted. And that does not always work.
 

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^ If the ball joints can't be done I will just replace the whole control arms. They're not that expensive...
 

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2016 GLE 400 4Matic
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I just replaced my lower control arms about couple of month ago. I replaced mine with OEM Genuine Mercedes-Benz from ECSTUning.com. You have to remember the driver side and passenger side has different part numbers. It's cheaper to replace the complete arm then just the bushing due to labor cost. Once you replace the arms you will need a wheel alignment.
 

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2004 Mercedes Benz CLK500 (Wifes), 2002 ML320 (Sons), 2005 ML500, 2002 ML500, 2000 ML320
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Replacing the bushings are not for the faint of heart, I have done them several times. Most shops use either a threaded arbor set
to remove the bushings on the car, or they remove the arms and use arbors in a floor press, which is what I do. I am doing the blueprints
for a on the car hydraulic press, will build it over the winter, maybe patent it, if can work on many models, it would be worth the trouble.

Also I have found that replacing the bushings only works well with either Genuine Mercedes-Benz, Lemforder, or Moog strut arms and control arms.
Other brands ball joints will not last long enough to make it worth your money and trouble.
 

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2011 S550
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Happy July 4th to you all... was wondering if anyone could give me some info on what I need to replace my control arms... I have a MY 2005 CLK 500 and was told I needed lower control arms. I ignored it for a while as I was having no issues with my car. Fast forward a few months later and now my car shakes when I go over 55mph... So I was figuring since the lower control arms on both sides need replacement why not replace the upper control arms because I'm sure those are in tough shape also.
1- What brands do you guys recommend?
2- Where should i purchase them?
I've seen full sets on eBay that have upper,lower, and sway bars for under $200... THe brand is GES parts... (pic below) Are these any good? I'm assuming for that price it's a bit sketchy... also whatever brand I decide to get does that pic tell me everything I need to replace? Or are there more parts? I'm asking because I went to one auto shop and was told that if I get the parts they'll install it..
I've also gotten a separate estimate from a different mechanic for $750 to get the job completely done with them ordering the parts...


I used GES auto parts' lower control arms for my clk320 a few months ago and regretted it.

To start with, the ones I got where about a quarter inch shorter then the originals, so I had to get a front end alignment. I didn't check the LCAs before I installed them, but I think just one was shorter: when I had it aligned, only one wheel was pretty bad, the other was slightly bad lol.

Going on 5,000 miles rn, and they squeak a lot. Haven't checked for torn ball joint boots though. If I did it again, I'd pay more for better control arms. If you need a quick guide, I posted a short YouTube video ab replacing mine, lmk if you have trouble finding it. It was a pretty straightforward repair.

Best of luck




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2008 AMG CLK63 Conv., 2012 R350 4-Matic, Wife's 2015 C300 sedan
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Autohausaz.com has lower arms at $80 and change, uppers at $112 and change. Both are Lemfoerder (sp) which may or may not be the OEM parts sans M-B packaging. Couldn't find tie rod ends but I don't expect they're too expensive either.

At those prices I'm not going to eff about trying to replace bushings.

She blew the seals on a front shock as well so I'm looking prices for complete fro nt shock units (spring + damper). Otherwise I need to get some spring compressors as well and just change the dampers. Will go OEM equivalent not high faluting after-market, 'cos she's not exactly Danica Patrick out there either way. More like Miss Daisy Driving...
 

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2005 CLK 500
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Discussion Starter #14
Update...
As you all know my car was shaking when I drove at above 50 mph and I was told I needed lower control arms by two "major" car service chains one being Sears Auto & the other Firestone.... so I figured I would replace both to make it worth my while...
Fast forward to a few days after my original post I'm driving home from work and stop at a red light two blocks away from my home... as the light turns greens I proceed to drive and BOOM!!! At first I thought maybe I drove over unexploded M80 or something cause I see smoke in my rear view... so lo and behold it was my rear passenger tire that blew.... luckily I was close to home and not on a highway doing 55mph and also close to a few tire shops... so as you know the rear tires on the CLK are 245 40 17... he did not have that size but he did have 245 45 17... so I figured at this point I can't really drive anywhere else on this fully blown out tire as I may do more damage so I told him to put that one on. It just so happens he had a set of meaty Pirelli tires so I cut a deal with him for $100 for both in the 245 45 size. I know they're a bit higher than the OEM size but I figured I can live with that until I buy a new set... Luckily I decided to do so because the rear drivers side tire also was bad on the inside part. The steel belt was actually visible.
So after I get these new tires mounted, guess what??? No more shaking!!! So I'm guessing it wasn't my control arms that was making my car shake it may have possibly been a bubble on the inside of my tire.... Could you imagine spending all that money to change the control arms only to find out later that it was my tire making my car shake? I'm just thankful that the blowout did not occur on the highway.... I will however get the control arms done at a later date... I'm guessing now I need a wheel alignment...
Thank you all for your previous input...
I'm thankful for your time and knowledge...
 

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Actually, from the looks of that tire, you have severe wear on the inside, which maybe a camber issue. If that's the case, a standard alignment won't help as you can't adjust camber - it only allows for toe adjustment front and rear. The theory is that if all the suspension bushings and ball joints are in good condition, and there has been no frame damage, camber will be within spec. There is an official camber adjustment for the front that uses fluted bolts to move the lower control arm in and out, but nothing for the rear. There are some aftermarket solutions for rear camber that use adjustable control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hello everyone.... i got myself a new complete set of Michelin A/S 3 tires and again was told i need both front lower control arms... i was advised to get that done before i get my alignment...
i have looked on partsgeek and i was planning on going with the popular lemfoeders... i am just confused on which ones to get because there’s two different sets of lemfoeders... one set is from an “A” catalogue and another from a “G” catalogue... i don’t know which one to purchase... can someone please help me out with any info? Thank you in advance and enjoy your Sunday...
 

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Generally speaking I would only ever consider buying anything from Ebay or Amazon IF there was absolutely no alternative supplier to be found anywhere on the globe.

I foolishly attempted to make a $20 credit card purchase from Amazon a while back, whereupon my credit card details were stolen instantly, which fortunately caused my bank to block the card. To cut a long story short that failed transaction cost me a return airfare to the UK, and hotel bills for a few days, while I sorted out the debacle caused by Scamazon.

Much later, I attempted to make a small PayPal purchase on Ebay, only to have the purchase rejected for no logical reason, with the consequence that PayPal summarily blocked my account until I jumped through the usual hoops to prove my identity. I would only ever buy from either of those two scam websites using a disposable and untraceable Visa or Mastercard bought at the checkout stand of Target or some such place. I have nothing but utter contempt for Schemebay and scamazon, to put it very mildly.

With that rant out of the way, I would highly recommend buying parts for your car from Pelican Parts. They offer reliable OEM Merc parts, alongside more costly branded Mercedes parts, and they deliver your order promptly and with no mistakes.

Pelican Parts also publishes highly detailed and illustrated guides to help DIY mechanics work on their cars, and no, I have no affiliation whatsoever with that outfit, other than being a loyal customer for the past few years.
So sorry you have had poor experiences with Amazon and eBay. I have used them for many years with no credit card issues. I have bought auto parts there that are the same as the dealer uses, only re-boxed. What few issues I have had over the years has always been addressed with either a refund or replacement. I always purchase products that have good reviews from sellers with good reviews. I presently have oil filter, air filters, and transmission filter from Amazon in the CLK350. I use an ICarsoft MB2 I purchased on eBay.
 

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Originally Posted by glideslope View Post
"Generally speaking I would only ever consider buying anything from Ebay or Amazon IF there was absolutely no alternative supplier to be found anywhere on the globe."

Ouch . . . my experiences have been exactly the opposite (and I don't own stock in eBay, Paypal or Amazon, shoulda bought them in 1999).

I buy all kinds of stuff on eBay, most of it isn't available locally or if it is, it is three to ten times the on-line price (or more) and shelf stale. I also run the USA end of a company which sells in the six figures annually on Amazon and we simply wouldn't exist without them. We've had just about zero problems with the venues and the payment processors, most of the problems are wrong size/wrong color/just don't like it/changed my mind and so forth, just like in a walk-in retail store.

From your description of the events, it almost sounds like you might have or have had a keylogger trojan in your computer. I doubt the breach was at eBay/Paypal/Amazon because they KNOW they are targets and they have some fairly sharp engineers paying attention to the security of credit card numbers. If incidents like yours were constant, they'd be out of business, and they know it. (Unlike Equifax, whose top level super confidential password was reputed to be "password" and since the breach, they have drastically ramped up their security with a new, far more secure password, reputed to be "newpassword".)

If you were working on a laptop in an airport on a public wifi network, you might have been hit with a spoofed network, and that's how they got your card information.

I do agree with you that preloaded credit cards from Le Tarjay or Walmart would be safer but a major advantage of buying on line is not having to go out to those stores in the first place, drive there, fight for a parking space, trudge through the snow, hassle with sales droids, trudge back through the snow and find your car has been keyed by some troglodyte . . . (I have an old, raggedy Honda Accord which goes to WalMart, Publix, Home, Depot, etc. when I absolutely can't avoid it.)

All I can say is try again, maybe use an Amex card because unlike MC/Visa, with Amex, the customer's word is gold. With the others, you have to prove yourself innocent, and (as you have noticed) that is a slow, painful process. (No stock in Amex, either.)

I tend to buy as much as I can on-line, it is less expensive for the same product, the selection is far wider, and it comes right to my door, I don't have to go chase it. (And I'm not a Millennial glued to a i-phone either, I'm 71.)

With Best Regards,

Mike/Florida
 
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