Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Common ESL (Electric Steering Lock) Failure in W204, W207, W212 and Others

24K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  Deano_M  
#1 ·
Various Mercs, like my W204 2007 model and also W207, W212, etc. suffer from not starting due to failure of a US$3.57 Chinese motor, which pushes the pin in and out for the lock of the steering. That repair then costs AUS$2,000 plus towing, great! A case of German over-engineering to lock the steering wheel as it is no longer done in later models. Worse, if the rumours are correct, the NEC security chip on the ELS records the number of starting attempts with this slowly dying motor and then decides electronically to block any further attempts of "stealing". This means a trip to a locksmith to mate the ELS with ignition lock and key. After having changed that motor, I would like to test the ESL (Electric Steering Lock) and I have a schematic for the four electric pins, which may not even be correct:

Both top pins at the rectangular end go to +12V
Bottom LH pin goes to GND
Bottom RH pin goes to the "K-LINE" of the EZS or ignition lock

Provided those pins are marked correctly, what sort of a voltage would go from the ignition lock to the ESL via the K-LINE, either fed from the CAN-EL bus or the CAN-EH bus. Is that a 2.5VDC control signal or is it also a 12V control signal on a CAN bus to start the action? Would it only be a pulse?The NEC chip must have the logic to drive the motor one way to pull the steering lock in and stop when the limit switch says so and turn the motor the other way to push the lock out and stop at the limit.

Anyone out there with a black belt in Mercedes electrickery? Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Thanks, Paul. Please tell me if SDS means "Star"? I have an iCarsoft MB2 diagnostic, but that one only still gives me the A25646 "Implausible signal received" error message. Problem is, my ESL with the new motor might be OK, but those companies with eProm flashers claim they must recondition the ESL completely as some of the Chinese motors are no good (?) and in my case I did not know aliexpress could have even sold me the tool for removing those four holding pins to the lid, so I drilled the pins out, in that case the company tells me I am up for a new lid and $44!
 
#6 ·
All true. The NEC chip acts as a fuse, when the motor goes bad the excess power draw burns the chip, thus necessities a new ESL.

If you catch the motor going bad in time and preemptively replace it, you should be good for another couple years. But if the ESL totally craps out.... Then it's 50/50 as to replacing the motor will fix the problem.

The NEC chip holds the immobilizer info, including all key hash numbers. The ESL independently verifies the key, so if the EIS says key is valid but ESL says it isn't, tough luck. Both must match before ESL gives command to EIS to turn on terminal 15, 30 and 50.
 
#7 ·
As @Deplore said - what seem completely backward is actually what happens. The key's IR is transmitted to the ignition switch, and the ignition switch checks its validity based on the 8 key "tracks" it has stored that can be assigned to the vehicle. The key's "password" is the ran through an algorithm in the ignition switch, and a hash value of the key is produced, and this is forwarded to the ESL. If the ESL is not aware of the key's hash, it responds to the ignition switch not issuing a "start enable" condition, therefore, depending on the switch, the key will not turn, or may turn but not be recognized as valid.

An "emulator" device is common to deal with this. If the ESL is not functioning properly, it not only keeps the steering wheel from turning, but also keeps the vehicle from starting. The emulator device mimics what the ESL does by answering the ignition switch's (EIS) request for validation of the hash and tells the EIS what it wants to hear, therefore allowing the car to start.

The downside of this (if you consider it one) is the steering wheel lock is effectively disabled, leaving it unlocked in all cases.
 
#16 ·
As @Deplore said - what seem completely backward is actually what happens. The key's IR is transmitted to the ignition switch, and the ignition switch checks its validity based on the 8 key "tracks" it has stored that can be assigned to the vehicle. The key's "password" is the ran through an algorithm in the ignition switch, and a hash value of the key is produced, and this is forwarded to the ESL. If the is not aware of the key's hash, it responds to the ignition switch not issuing a "start enable" condition, therefore, depending on the switch, the key will not turn, or may turn but not be recognized as valid.

An "emulator" device is common to deal with this. If the ESL is not functioning properly, it not only keeps the steering wheel from turning, but also keeps the vehicle from starting. The emulator device mimics what the ESL does buy answering the ignition switch's (EIS) request for validation of the hash and tells the EIS what it wants to hear, therefore allowing the car to start.

The downside of this (if you consider it one) is the steering wheel lock is effectively disabled, leaving it unlocked in all cases.
I asked Australian ECU Repairs why they do not go the emulator path as it looks like a cheaper path. Their reply was, that customers with emulators had problems again and did contact them for a "proper" repair. Now that answer may have a certain commercial bias.
 
#9 ·
Made a few mistakes before, now that I know better: The ESL motor fails due to worn carbon brushes, not due to some counting inside the ESL's NEC chip of unsuccessful starting attempts. Just changing the motor may not fix it, it has to be in the unlocked position in order to install it. In that position the firmware of the NEC chip does not expect starting, starting is from the locked position. In that case one has to attach he ESL last to make it work. I had to send the ESL with ignition lock and key to Australian ECU Repair to get it fixed.
 
#12 ·
While I used a hacksaw in the Oz heat, the most elegant method used a small Dremel or a small angle grinder. This means, you do not have a bolt anymore to attach to the column, but who cares, mine hangs now attached to the column with cable ties. Theoretically, if that car gets stolen and the insurance finds out it has no steering lock because you told them so (?), then there is no compensation. Apparently Merc has stopped this nuisance of locking the steering, good job. My ESL motor had a life of 130,000km and about 13 years and that is the time it takes for the carbon brushes to wear out. I doubt you can buy a genuine German ESL motor, so any repair will use US$4 Chinese motors and they may not last 13 years. You may not even be able to buy a complete ESL from Merc as there is such a thing called "theft prevention" and that stops Merc from retailing ESLs. They prefer to charge AUS$2,000 for a complete ESL change.

Gone is my belief in German quality as I always read of 1,000,000km Merc trucks and 500,000km Merc cars, but for that it would need FOUR German, not Chinese ESL motor changes to get to 5000,000!

I would not suggest drilling into the ESL casing as the next chap does as the filings all end up inside on the electronics plus if you cannot get it going, Australian ECU Repairs will sell you a new casing for $40 if they repair it for you in addition to the $450 for a motor change and check. I had to send them the ignition lock and key and ESL as I could not get it started. I know installation has to be done in the unlocked state for the ESL to fit into the column with the bolt. That state is an unexpected state for the NEC security chip, as starting can only be done with a locked ESL. So once you have the motor changed, it takes a special procedure, where you apply power to the ESL last and that procedure I put on MIKEYZs Youtube ESL video.
 
#11 ·

This is the method I use.
 
#14 ·
As I only later bought the tool to remove the four pins of the ESL from Aliexpress, I drilled the pins out plus cut the bolt. AUS ECU Repairs then did the motor change again and they supplied a new housing with a bolt. A scrap yard wanted $150 for a complete ESL, but that ESL may not work plus it needs matching with key and ignition lock.
 
#17 ·
Depends. Some of those emulators have gotten crazy good, enough that I'm confident offering lifetime warranty on ESL emulator for all 204/207.

Whereas the traditional ESL is good enough, but since it has moving parts, it'll fail again. So I only give 1 year warranty on those.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for that, Moderator. Australian ECU Repair is claiming customers with emulators have to come back to them to get the US$4 Chinese motor in the steering lock replaced. Problems: Mercedes do not sell that small genuine German ESL motor, which in my case only lasted 13 years or 130,000km and in many customers much less. Modern Mercs do no longer lock the steering anyway and unless a thief has that expensive piece of equipment that can record the code being sent from the key to later use that recorded key to open the door and start, Mercs with emulators or changed ESL motor are safe from thieves.

Problems: Merc will not even sell the complete ESL unit to you, claiming you are a "thief" despite the fact you can clearly show on hand of the registration papers and drivers licence that you are the owner.

DIY Youtube mechanics like myself can change the ESL motor and one hopes the Chinese motor is as good or bad as the German one (?) and attach the repaired ESL to the column and leave the column unlocked. If that common ESL fault is caught in time and the steering is not locked, then the ESL can be installed properly anyway to lock the column, it is only if the mounting bolt has to be cut, that the repaired ESL can be left dangling on the column.
 
#20 ·
Don't understand your comment:
"zero out the odometer" ?
When I have tried that with the SD it would not let me do it - but I have only got experience on W220 changing the cluster. So I got new clustersa from the dealer and then did a Initial start up. Not all W220 have "Redundant distance storage"
I believe you can only reset the mileage to zero on very low KM demo cars [under 40 or 50km] before it's handed to the new buyer.
Perhaps you can elaborate on the "zero out" procedure.
 
#21 ·
ESL failed out of the blue, I have managed to remove it without removing the steering column thankfully but it's very awkward! I'm planning on replacing the motor but had a thought, if I connect the ESL to the wiring but I DON'T fix it to the steering column again, would the car still start?

It would mean easier access to the ESL if it failed again in the future, I'm not bothered that the steering won't be locked.