Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
'80 230G SWB, '03 G500, '80 280GE LWB (sold), '98 Jeep Wrangler Sahara (sold)
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I feel I may be in need of a new clutch for the 280GE. At times, especially when it is colder out, my clutch pedal will not return to the depressed state and it is also quit difficult to put the shifter into gear (especially reverse). This sounds like a clutch problem, as I haven't read anything in the previous posts similar to my problem, and those tended to be repaired by either bleeding or replacing the master or slave cylinders. Does anybody know if this means I need a new clutch? And if so, would one from a sedan work or are they G-specific and thus expensive?
 

·
BenzWorld G Class Host
2002 800RMK
Joined
·
1,518 Posts
Are you sure you didn't mis-word the question? The clutch pedal should never return to a depressed position, it should return up, to a non-depressed position.

If it is difficult to move the gear selector you have a master/slave cylinder issue. Dutch has a LOT of experience rebuilding/replacing those parts. I have never had to do the ones on my 280 (knock on wood).

The symptoms of a failed/worn clutch lining is slipping when power is applied. Once your foot is off the pedal do rpms vary directly with speed or does the engine rev faster than the speedo rises? ie; slip. You will often get a burning smell when the clutch is slipping too.

Assuming the pedal isn't returning to the up position, and the gears are difficult to engage, my diagnosis is with the master and slave clutch parts. You can first try to top off and bleed the system but I suspect you need to rebuild/replace those simple inexpensive parts.

Is the G clutch disk and pressure plate unique? Probably, but even if it is shared with a sedan, manual trans sedans from MB are pretty scarce and the price will likely reflect that.
 

·
Registered
85 300GD 83 300TD
Joined
·
978 Posts
On the 300GD the clutch disk and pressure plate are unique and I ordered spares from Europa. I do not know if they are the same for the 280GE. They are not that expensive (around $350 for the kit) for what they are; heavy duty clutch parts. I agree with Brent, you likely have a master or slave or both problem. Or air in the line. Have you pressure bled it? Does the clutch slip? If it doesn't slip it is unlikely a disk/PP issue.

-Dai
 

·
Registered
'80 230G SWB, '03 G500, '80 280GE LWB (sold), '98 Jeep Wrangler Sahara (sold)
Joined
·
708 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Brent and Dai,
Yes sorry I meant non-depressed state, it's sticking towards the floorboard. I can't check my RPM's visibly as I don't have a tach in the truck and play it by ear so to speak. But I don't feel any difference in the engine power or hear any change in sound. I'll bleed the system and look into the problem closer tomorrow when I have a bit of free time.
Thanks again guys...
 

·
Registered
111.010 121.942 202.033
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Mike G. - 4/9/2005 3:52 AM

Thanks Brent and Dai,
Yes sorry I meant non-depressed state, it's sticking towards the floorboard. I can't check my RPM's visibly as I don't have a tach in the truck and play it by ear so to speak. But I don't feel any difference in the engine power or hear any change in sound. I'll bleed the system and look into the problem closer tomorrow when I have a bit of free time.
Thanks again guys...
On the system manual trans MBs of that vintage (and older) the slave usually goes first - and it is cheaper. Also, the short rubber line that feeds the slave may look fine but often times it swells internally. If you start replacing parts I'd start w/ those two.
 

·
Registered
200D, 300TD, 230GE
Joined
·
259 Posts
Brent - 4/8/2005 7:59 PM

I suspect you need to rebuild/replace those simple inexpensive parts.

.

Unfortunately, the parts are not that cheap - at least from Europa. A set of new clutch master and slave cylinders from Europa is over $400. A set of kits is about $200.

Bruce
 

·
Registered
85 300GD 83 300TD
Joined
·
978 Posts
Try a search of the forum for master/slave cylinder posts. I seem to recall someone finding kits that fit for passenger car cylinders. Possibly 240D parts? At those prices it's worth a look. Also Dave talked about installing a stainless sleive inside the bore. There are several companies doing this and Hemmings is a source for finding this service. I've honed them before but I wouldn't do it again. Often the failure is due to corrosion in the wall of the bore that looks like tiny worms have been there. The honing has to be extreme to get to a fresh surface and so get oversize quickly. I would go with a bore and SS insert. When I rebuild cylinders I like Girling Rubber Grease to lubricate the parts on the way in. Works great.

-Dai
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top