I thought I would write about my recent experience in case it would help someone in the future. I just bought an 06 CLS500 with the sport package. I've always loved the look of these cars! I noticed that the front tires were worn out on the inside. (common problem with many sport/luxury cars including ones I'ved owned Infinity Q45, Porsche 911, Audi A6 and this one). I took it to the dealer for an alignment and they said the front lower thrust control arm bushings were bad $560) I wanted to try replacing them myself. I got them from autohausaz part 2113332814 for about $34 each. The first thing I noticed was they look quite a bit different from the ones on the car and from the picture on their website. After a bunch of checking, it looks like there are two interchangeable parts 2113332814 and 2113332914. The 2113332914 version appears to be more robust. I think autohaus's 2814 is actually a 2914. I then jacked up the car and noticed that this car has 3 belly pans! It was easy enough to remove the bolt from the bushing and drop the control arm down. I tried to remove the old bushing using a big vice and some pieces of pipe that pushed on the bushing and held the control arm. No way that would work. I then bought a ball joint press from harbor freight for $70. I also bought a ball joint remover thinking it would be alot easier to work on the control arm if I got it off the car. The ball joint remover looked like it would work great since it pushed on the stud of the ball joint, but I got it so tight that the treads started to strip and no movement on the ball joint, so I gave that up. Next I used the ball joint press and a impact wrench to press out the old bushing. It ended up separating the center from the outside ring and took A LOT of pressure. I really don't think the bushings were bad at all, just some minor surface cracking. I then used a sawsall to cut the outer ring of the bushing and was able to remove it pretty easily. I was wondering if the press would be strong enough to put the new one in. I put some oil on the inside of the control arm and it worked. The hole in the control arm has one side tapered which makes it fairly easy to get the bushing started. Be careful to install the bushing so that the ob-long hole in the center of the bushing aligns with the length of the control arm. I then installed the camber adjustment bolts part no 0003300018 so the thrust control arm was pulled in toward the center of the car as far as possible. I then replaced the two main control arm bushing bolts with these camber bolts so that it was pulled in as far as possible. Once I had it back together I used my iphone level which shows the camber at about .9 degrees negative. Since I had moved the camber adjustments, I figure the tow was really bad, so I set it using a couple measuring tapes. Next week I will buy new tires and take it back for a real alignment. If the camber is out of spec positive, but still slightly negative, I'll try to convince them to leave it. The specified large negative camber is great for cornering, but very expensive when it wears $200 tires off on the inside. I'm ok if it won't quite pull .87 G's on the skid pad. It was a harder job then I guessed, but not impossible. I probably wouldn't have replaced the bushings just yet as they appeared to be very strong still. However the new 2914 design will probably last forever.