[amusa]

My gear slipped into neutral while the gear selector was in drive. It took about 5-6 seconds for the gears to catch. This happen 1 time about a week ago since I had the conductor plate and pilot bushing replace back in February or March of 2013 and before that I had the main pump seal replace back in November of 2012.

I don't know what else to do and I'm lost except MAYBE the gear selector is going bad? I did change the gear selector bushing under the center console is there another bushing on the transmission itself?

I sent a message to somebody I know that is a MB tech to see if I can get Star tool hooked up to see if there are any fault stored. There were no CEL.

 

[rudeney]

So the shift lever itself actually moved from D to N? This would be a mechanical problem with the AGS (shifter) itself.

 

[xsever]

So the shift lever itself actually moved from D to N? This would be a mechanical problem with the AGS (shifter) itself.

I don't think this is what happened since he said "My gear slipped into neutral while the gear selector was in drive."

Maybe a mechanical problem indeed happened and it went into N while the shift lever was still "indicating" D.

 

[mrbobby]

It sounds like it could be a transmission fluid level deficiency. If you have the 722.6 the electrical connector could have sucked an appreciable amount of fluid from the transmission overtime. Check the fluid level before going too much further.

 

[amusa]

It sounds like it could be a transmission fluid level deficiency. If you have the 722.6 the electrical connector could have sucked an appreciable amount of fluid from the transmission overtime. Check the fluid level before going too much further.

Thanks, John that works for Mercedes ran the STAR tool (gear ratio) at his house and he suggested it could be low fluid but he did recommend that I should have it flush. It was to cold and dark outside and he did not have the dip stick with him. I forgot that I had one sitting in my spare at the time. I'm getting it flush soon from MB.


It was in drive the whole time when it slipped.

 

[amusa]

Update
I added 1/2qt last week and seems it has solved the issue. The trans is shifting much smoothly, no stuck RPM or slipping. I'm going to have it flush. It's on my to do list.

 

[insame1]

Update
I added 1/2qt last week and seems it has solved the issue. The trans is shifting much smoothly, no stuck RPM or slipping. I'm going to have it flush. It's on my to do list.

Glad to here it but I believe that your problem is not fixed. You just found the cause. There must be a leak somewhere and that is the real problem. If you have not had your pilot bushing replaced yet have them do that at the same time as the flush.

 

[amusa]

Glad to here it but I believe that your problem is not fixed. You just found the cause. There must be a leak somewhere and that is the real problem. If you have not had your pilot bushing replaced yet have them do that at the same time as the flush.

The pilot bushing was replacing at the same time as the conductor plate. Before that I had the trans pump seal replace as well. There is no leak I have checked and my mechanic (friend) while it was on the car lift. I believe like mrbobby said that the conductor plate might of sucked in amount of fluid from the transmission overtime. It's been now 2 years since I changed the pilot bushing and conductor plate.

 

[amusa]

Another update. The trans not slipping at all. I also changed out the shift rod bushing and clip on the trans. I have not pushed the car yet since I keep snapping lug bolts left and right there are torque down to 80lbs. I got fed up with these Micky mouse lug bolts and order H&R since they are made in Germany.

 

[amusa]

I had the CLK on the car lift. I notice (2) plastic plugs mounted on the trans housing. I think 1 plug is for the torque converter drain screw. The other plug (right side) next to it was leaking oil. I have no clue what is behind that plug. I was to afraid to take that plug out since it was very brittle. The oil was brownish in color. I'm doing the rear main seal anyway. I think it maybe leaking but since I be dropping the transmission down. I rather change it anyway. Wondering If the rear main seal is the cause of the gear to slip?

 

[rudeney]

A leaking rear main seal should have no effect on the transmission. Did you clean that off? Honestly, it doesn't look too bad. I'm not sure I'd go to the trouble of replacing the rear seal unless it were really leaking (say several quarts between oil changes).

 

[amusa]

The only thing, I clean was the belly pan (plastic under cover). Have not put additional oil in from my last oil change. Since then already put 3-4k miles on. I notice I have to add a quarts every 6-7k miles.

 

[rudeney]

Personally, just adding a quart every 6-7K miles, I'd not worry about it. Unless you are leaving oil puddles on the garage floor, it will be cheaper to add oil than repair the seal.

 

[amusa]

It been bothering me. I will feel allot better once I change out the rear main seal. I already have the rear main seal and I just order the cover and MB compound sealer. I be attempting the work with some help with my (2) friends that both are ASE certified. I have access to a full shop.

I notice there are (2) holes on the bottom of the rear main seal cover. Do I need to remove the oil pan to remove the rear main seal cover?