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2000 CLK 430 cabriolet
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 CLK 430 convertible. Top goes down perfectly. Windows lower, top goes in compartment propertly, chime sounds. Going up all is fine until top latches in rear and I latch front. Then windows won't go up, button stays lit (does NOT flash) and no chime. Oh, and you can't open the trunk with the interor switch or key fob. Only open trunk with key (thanks to other posts for helping me figure that one out!) I am more mechanically inclined than most, and do most repairs myself, though I am no mechanic. Please help without sending me to the stealership!
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Hi Tim

Would you please fill in your profile with UserCP ^^^ at top of the page as your model/engine size/style/location often helps our answers here.

We discussed cabrio roof problems on the W209 forum last year. I don't know how similar the soft top control system is between the W208 & W209, but they will not be too different.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w209-clk-class/1556663-w209-soft-top-problem.html

See also the threads referred to in the links on post #2. as you will get a good idea of the 'stages' of control, and the number of switches used.

My guess is that one of these 'limit-switches' is faulty or mis-aligned. I'm sure that they can be slightly re-positioned. You just have to work out which one it is....:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick response. that's what I'm figuring, that it's some limit switch/sensor. I looked at the links/pdf's you referenced too. my guess is
a switch/sensor on the luggage (like you can put any real luggage in there) guard that protects the top. A month or so ago the trunk wouldn't open with switch or key fob with top closed. I opened the top and they then worked, I then went back and jiggled that guard around and problem went away -- i guess it's back now. I'll try to figure out which one but not sure how to test them. Maybe push each one till the switch light goes out or it chimes? Any problem driving around with the convertible switch light on? Is the computer going to turn off the car or some other weird thing like making me turn the key on and off three times while standing on one leg and flashing the lights at the same time as holding the door lock switch down to clear the codes?
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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lol.. I think that you will be OK driving around with a fault light showing.

What I would really like to find is a FLOW CHART of the logic used to raise/lower the cabrio roof. Then it would be easy to trace which limit switch is causing the procedure to halt. It must exist in the dealership workshops..

All you can do is to study the list of switches, and try to figure out the most likely culprit. See if it clicks when you operate it manually, or pad out the part that moves the switch to see if it then operates better. :thumbsup:
 

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'03 SL Kleemann, 1997 SL320 Pano Top, Tesla Model X
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Put yourself into the controller's shoes...

I don't have a flow chart for the W208 either. However, since the controller is already activating the rear lock (the one that locks down the rear of the soft top), you should be missing only the signal that either the rear lock is fully latched, or something indicating that the front is fully locked.

Check out the rear lock, accessible from the trunk, and see if it closes completely. It is part of your car's aging process that the main seals in the hydraulic cylinders deteriorate and eventually leak, so it may just be that the cylinder does not get enough pressure to pull the lock down all the way. Or it could be a simple thing such as needing some lube on the lock surface.

Please let us know what you find...

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Tim - do what Klaus suggests above.

Here are a couple drawings correctly applicable to your W208 cabrio. (there are far too many for a complete suite here)

1. Stages of OPEN operation + other drawing numbers for detailed checks.
2. Stages of CLOSED operation + other drawing numbers for detailed checks.
3. Details of the Soft top locked limit switch. If this is faulty, your Soft Top Close procedure will not complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the suggestions. I pretty much had figured out it had to be the last "lock" in the process, the rear window when it locks down. I figured that if it was earlier in the sequence, the cycle would just stop. Anyways, when I get back to my computer I'll check out the pdf's you sent and see if I can figure it out further.
 

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i am having a problem with my top the motors dont do any thing and i dont have any hydraulic pump. only movement i have is windows down after turning of the unlock handle

i have b1650-001 (i know the codes have 001 to 012) any info on these would be a big help ty!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just an update. Removed the carpet covering and checked the micro switch and hydraulic cylinder that locks the window down. Cylinder not leaking (sorry Klaus), micro switch did have an adjustement. switch was "open" when top latched down. I adjusted it a bit to make sure it would really be "open" when top up, tried again - no luck. Also hit the mechanism with some white lithium lubricant - didn't help. Checked with stealership, and can't buy just the micro switch. Have to buy the whole assembly for $150 - told 'em to hold that thought. Did find that the latch to the soft top cover was wobbly loose. Tightened it up, opened the top, and it latched down fine - but then wouldn't release and allow top to go up -- oops! After five minutes of sheer panic, I got the instructions for manually opening/closing top. Opened lid manually (not as difficult as you might think), re-adjusted latch lining it up with the locking mechanism and re-tightened. That part now works fine, but still not completing "up" cycle. One other point, those 2 screws that are in the instructions that you are supposed to turn before manually opening/closing top-- tore trunk apart and couldn't find the #%!!# things! Don't seem to exist on my vehicle! Don't know how to check the front locked limit swithc. Going to independent benz repair shop to put it on Star and see if there is a code showing tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Independent Benz repair shop put it on computer today. Showed the problem was the rear bow lock limit switch, just what we had figured. Showed "low voltage" to limit switch, whatever that means. Code B1650. We took carpet off and when manually operating the limit switch, the computer registered the changes (locked; unlocked; locked; unlocked, etc.) so the micro switch is working properly. Adjusted the micro switch, no effect. Even though switch worked when manually manipulating it, didn't register "locked" when bow would lock down. They feel is it therefore mechanical, meaning something in the actual locking mechanism is not allowing the latch to fully seat down and release the limit switch. They lubed it up some more but so far no luck. Going to "tinker" with it myself over the next week or so when I have time and see if I can figure out the "mechanical" problem. Any thoughts would be helpful.
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Electrical switches are notorious for 'dirty' contact problems as they age. It isn't really dirt - more a mild surface corrosion. Electronics service engineers use a contact cleaner that comes in an aerosol spray can. It evaporates and would be safe to use to clean these limit switches with restricted access. It's worth a try here. :thumbsup:
 

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'03 SL Kleemann, 1997 SL320 Pano Top, Tesla Model X
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switches, lock and pressure

Just a couple of comments along the way.

One, the switches on the rear locks rarely fail. I have also not had any customers needing to adjust those particular switches on this style lock, which is used in W124 convertibles (E-Class) and R129s (SL-Class), as well.

Two, it is interesting that you seem to be able to actuate the lock manually when the hydraulic cylinder won't do the job. Again, these locks are normally quite reliable. It could be that something got lodged in there. However, you may simply not have full pressure in the system. SDS (Star Diagnosis) cannot detect that. The rear lock is probably the one hydraulic component in the system requiring the highest pressure to complete its cycle. Have you checked the bypass valve on the pump? (I assume that the reservoir still has fluid in it...) The pump is in front of the front panel of your trunk, and the bypass valve is turned with the white plastic cone that sticks out from the pump.

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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hi i have a 2004 mercedes clk 320 cabrio... i am having some issues, one day while driving the full beam light on dash(blue) turned on and stays on all the time, and also the central locking, heater blower, indicators, roof wont go up or down, nothing electrical seems to work, and i have checked the fuses and they all seem to be fine, can someone help me please as i am gona end up taking it to a dealer and cost me hell of a money to fix.. any ideas please many thanks
 

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'03 SL Kleemann, 1997 SL320 Pano Top, Tesla Model X
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hijacking this thread

donlimo,

welcome to the forum! You will find lots of helpful people here. However, it would be great if you could fill out your profile with vehicle model(s) and your location. That makes it easier to help you, and it is more rewarding to respond to someone who is willing to give a little themselves.

Also, your question is unrelated to this thread, so what you are doing is "hijacking" it. Would you please start a separate thread, or post in one that is related to your problem?

Thank you,

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Klaus, if I am going to go to the trouble of accessing the hydraulic pump, taking all that crap out of the trunk area, removing the liner, taking out the 46,000 screws that hold everything in place along with the 53 plastic fasteners, just what am I "checking" for? I can see the reservoir through a cut out in the liner, and see that it is full of fluid. Granted, it takes a contortionist to see it, but I managed -- little tough getting out of the trunk though...Also, I was going to try removing the latch mechanism and really cleaning it up and lubing it again to see if that would work. Any advice so I don't screw something up would be appreciated. what about lubing the plunger thingee that comes out of the hydraulic cylinder???
 

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'03 SL Kleemann, 1997 SL320 Pano Top, Tesla Model X
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checking the bypass/relief valve on the pump

Klaus, if I am going to go to the trouble of accessing the hydraulic pump, taking all that crap out of the trunk area, removing the liner, taking out the 46,000 screws that hold everything in place along with the 53 plastic fasteners, just what am I "checking" for?
Tim, I'm sorry that this is inconvenient for you. I'm trying to help, and I'm taking time out of my work day to do that. My advice may not be perfect, but it is well meaning. As I noted previously in this thread, you may want to check out the relief valve. It should have a white plastic cone attached to it. If that valve is not tightened clockwise all the way, you could have lower pressure in your system, explaining the fault. I would try to tighten it first (see if it turns at all), then loosen and re-tighten.

I can see the reservoir through a cut out in the liner, and see that it is full of fluid. Granted, it takes a contortionist to see it, but I managed -- little tough getting out of the trunk though...Also, I was going to try removing the latch mechanism and really cleaning it up and lubing it again to see if that would work. Any advice so I don't screw something up would be appreciated. what about lubing the plunger thingee that comes out of the hydraulic cylinder???
Don't scratch up the cylinder shaft ("plunger thingee") with your tools, and no need to lube it - it gets lubed by the hydraulic fluid inside the cylinder.

Hope this helps,

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Klaus, easy does it...i'm just trying to keep things light here. I had no idea what you meant by "check" the relief valve, which is why I asked what I was checking for.
As you know, it is not a two minute job to access the hydraulic pump. If the relief valve is loose, and I tighten it, will I then need to add fluid? if so, do I have to use mb fluid or can I just get some at tractor supply or autozone? I also better ask so i don't inadvertently screw something up, is it bad to manually move the plunger thingee (cylinder shaft)? Also, I do appreciate your help, and other advice I have received here on this forum. This forum saved me a lot of money by helping me self diagnos (and fix) an ac problem a few months ago.
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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I had no idea what you meant by "check" the relief valve, which is why I asked what I was checking for.
Klaus: "It should have a white plastic cone attached to it. If that valve is not tightened clockwise all the way, you could have lower pressure in your system, explaining the fault. I would try to tighten it first (see if it turns at all), then loosen and re-tighten".

It seems very clear to me! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for your assistance. I don't know when I'll get a chance to work on it again, maybe not till next week or so. I'll clean everything up, lube it, and see what happens, then if no go then check the hudraulic pump relief valve. Still wondering about mb fluid if needed vs "other" hydraulic fluid. Thanks again, I'll post progress notes when I get to it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, cleaned the locking mechanism but did NOT remove it - worried about really screwing something up that would cost big $$ to fix. Wiped all parts off, removed any grime and old lubricant, lubed again -- no help. Still reads unlocked when it is in reality locked. Only non-hydraulic thing not done is attempt to clean the switch as Keyhole suggested earlier. I'll try to find some cleaner and go that route, then will be left with accessing the hydraulic pump. Will keep posting updates as things progress.
 
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