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Discussion Starter #81
I got the "sail" parts above fitted much better after using some epoxy :) Both sides look brand new!

Also got a NOS set of euro turn signals from Adsitco; very happy with them. They're super dark orange. Amazing they still have parts like this new in an unopened box. Was a little pricey though at $99 a piece. But now the front end is basically all new (new turn signals, new glass on euro lamps protected by Lamin-X, brand new grill). Still no euro bumper- sticking with the stock one for now

Coming up next: the refinished wood. Igor should be done in the next few weeks. Once that's in, I'm going to get the car detailed and get an appraisal :)
 

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Looks great! Is Lamin-X a clear vinyl protective wrap like ppf (paint protection film)? Also, is the new grille new production? The newer ones have a black plastic for the slats vs the dark grey of the NOS/original. Was yours free of defects? I ordered one last summer and it had molding flash on the edges of the slats and flaws under the chrome--the dealership I ordered from tried two more, and each had flaws (either burn looking marks in the chrome or flash again).
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
Looks great! Is Lamin-X a clear vinyl protective wrap like ppf (paint protection film)? Also, is the new grille new production? The newer ones have a black plastic for the slats vs the dark grey of the NOS/original. Was yours free of defects? I ordered one last summer and it had molding flash on the edges of the slats and flaws under the chrome--the dealership I ordered from tried two more, and each had flaws (either burn looking marks in the chrome or flash again).
Lamin-X is a clear protective film- I think what I ordered was 12 mil and I cut it to fit. Arizona has a LOT of rocks on the highway, so it’s a must have when the glass lenses are so expensive and rare

The grill I got was from the MB Classic Center in Germany. I ordered from a supplier I know and I guess (at the time) that’s the only place that had it in stock. It’s definitely free of defects- it’s in perfect shape :). The plastic does appear to be black, but I believe the original was too (just a little sun faded). Gen1 are definitely a lighter gray color. Unfortunately, I broke my old grill while removing it. The edges were really stuck on there, even after taking all the screws out. I tried gently pushing the old one out and it came out in two pieces. New one went in without any issues

Link to when grill was replaced:
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/2813858-cliftons-new-sec-project-journal-5.html#post17587721
 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
Huge props to Roy ( @liviu165 ) for this thread:
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/3002259-coupe-windows-scratched.html#post17542339

My rear passenger side window had some damage on the inside chrome (see attachment) and the outside chrome was dented and the seals were torn (damaged during paintless dent removal). When I got the car, I found some broken glass under the front passenger seat. When doing this job, I had to take the rear side panel off and found even more broken glass. When the window was replaced by a previous owner, I think they got a window without chrome and used pliers to pull the chrome onto the replacement window, bending it really bad. This caused the seal to not attach properly and let water through. I found rust all over this side- which is why I replaced all the window seals (the metal inside the rubber was bigtime rusted)
 

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The parts car I have also has option 592 (GREEN HEAT-INSUL. GLASS, ALL-AR., HEATED REAR WINDOW PANE, BAND FILTER) so I was able to steal the window and clean it really good. The other parts I ordered are:

INSIDE seals (have to remove inside door panel to install these)
126-673-04-65
126-673-03-65

OUTSIDE seals (need to carefully remove chrome to install these)
126-670-02-38
126-670-01-38

Removing the window is fairly easy - after taking the door panel off, you have to move the window up and down until the 10mm bolt attaching the window to the regulator lines up with holes in the body panel (there are two bolts / attach points). Putting it back on was a pain in the ass. I kept dropping the bolt into the door panel on accident... To prevent the bolt from falling when moving into position, I got a little ghetto and scotch taped the bolt to the end of the ratchet extension (there is probably a better way, would be curious for tips) and that made it super easy

The seals were a little tougher than I thought. Before you tear your old ones out, make sure to take a pic. You can install them two ways, but only one is correct (otherwise the seal will be too close to the window). The seal seats itself on the body and then the inside door panel's chrome goes into this seal. The outer seal is a little bit of a pain to get lined up perfectly... the felt part that goes on the door jamb has a lip around the edges that gets tucked behind the body panel. If you replace this, do it one at a time so you can check the other one to make sure fitment is right

After this was squared away, I put the outside chrome trim back on. My rear passenger one was damaged, so I used the one from the parts car. Take extra care putting these back on- I made sure to measure the gap (compared against other side) so that everything lined up perfectly

I didn't get a chance to finish the driver's side yet - will have to do that tomorrow or next weekend. But at least all the rust is off this door jamb and surrounding parts!
That looks great.

Rubber parts in good condition makes such a difference in the overall appearance of the car.

If the rubber is grey, cracked and with bits missing, it doesn't matter how shiny the paint is, the car is going to look tired.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
That looks great.

Rubber parts in good condition makes such a difference in the overall appearance of the car.

If the rubber is grey, cracked and with bits missing, it doesn't matter how shiny the paint is, the car is going to look tired.
New rubber bits are amazing- especially here in Arizona (and Utah)! :) The extreme heat and lack of humidity dry the rubber out like crazy. Besides looking tired, when it does rain (rare, I know!) water will seep in between shrunken rubber in some places. Door seals are probably due for a replacement as I found rust under both doors not long after buying the car... just a little scared of that job (making sure it fits perfect, etc)

One of my favorite replacements so far were the rubber gaskets around the euro headlamps when I was rebuilding those. Dropped right into place, nice and squishy. I'd love to replace just about all of the rubber parts (even have some on hand) - but some of them (like the sunroof seal) are a major headache to do. Not sure if I'll ever do that one! Same with the trunk seal- just removing the pieces of the old one will take some work
 

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Good work Brian -
Just did all the same process a few months back when working on the black coupe including swapping in those new side trim covers to the rear of the seat-belt arm.
The inside alloy trim can be a bitch to get off to replace the plastic cover and get back on again (done it a few times now).

A few little tricks for those pain in the arse rear passenger side trim panels -
Make the wiring harness from the rear passenger window switch about 18 inches longer.

Re-install the insert trim panel into the side panel before the panel goes back into the car. That way all the broken insert clips/parts can be fixed or replaced and the trim piece can be installed much easier as can work behind the panel at the same time.

The handle needs the screw secured to it via a small rubber grommet or some silicon so it does not fall down behind the panel when trying to locate the screw into position to screw the handle back into position (this re-install can drive you crazy if you are not familiar with the process)

I use new clips for those outer rubber window seals and make sure the door end is sealed up nicely using sealer to avoid moisture getting in there.
Use POR on metal surfaces underneath where the chrome plate cover screws on and under the rubber where moisture can get trapped and cause rust.

Piece of mind when you have tackled that back window area as you have just done
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I'm not a fan of tint in general, but wanted to get something good to block the UV since Arizona is brutal. I went with Llumar FormulaOne Stratos in the lightest shade available (70). I went to Smart Film, who is a Llumar "select pro" installer. They did a REALLY good job! Even got the windshield done too

The car had been sitting in the sun for a few hours before I picked it up and even the tired 126 A/C cooled the car down pretty quickly. This should help keep the wood I'm having redone in great shape :) I should have an update on that within the next two weeks... will be sure to share lots of before and after pics. After driving around without wood bits in the car for almost 6 months, it's going to be a real treat getting back fresh burl walnut (I sent the wood to be restored back in March, but took all of it out over the Christmas holiday)
 

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Awesome, Brian. Car looks fantastic.

I was in Las Vegas once and experienced 121 degrees. I was sure I could see my wood pieces cracking before my eyes. Good move on the tint.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Awesome, Brian. Car looks fantastic.

I was in Las Vegas once and experienced 121 degrees. I was sure I could see my wood pieces cracking before my eyes. Good move on the tint.
Thanks, Mike :) The desert is crazy- besides the heat it's super dry. Great for keeping rust away, but any plastic bits become so brittle that they straight up snap if you're not careful. I took the side panels off to make things more accessible for the folks doing the tint and somehow the passenger side seat belt presenter got caught under there and ended up breaking

Will be having to buy a replacement plastic piece and replacing that :( It's always scary taking trim apart- you never know when it'll break and it's not easy to find replacements!

BTW - will be in your neck of the woods soon with the family (with the GL, no coupe). I'll try to shoot you a message if time allows
 

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Classy looking tint, very nice. Doing the windscreen seems like madness though, I guess if its legal there and you don't drive at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
. He basically had clear tint installed. Blocks UV and some heat but doesn’t darken/block sun
This is correct - I think they're careful about the wording on the invoice; it says "heat film protection". It does seem to have some color, but very mild. It's a ceramic film that blocks 99% of UVA/B

Once the tint has settled in (2 days before you're supposed to do anything, like window up/down) I'll apply 303 (love this stuff!) to the dash and other interior panels to get them nice and supple... and it should actually stay this way :)

@ianrandom dark tint is definitely one of my pet peeves; not sure if it's just getting older or that I had LASIK surgery... but night driving is difficult enough with un-tinted windows. So far, this doesn't seem too obtrusive

Besides replacing the wood and needing to fix the seat belt presenter (lol), got a few other projects lined up:
- replace leather on seats with GAHH
- fix the rear sunscreen. I got an antenna/aerial mast from a Volvo that @KRH mentioned a while back, which I should be able to harvest the cord from
- paintless dent removal. got some nasty ones in the roof that will require the headliner to be removed. Not very happy about those
- replacing the sunroof seal and making sure sunroof is mounted properly. Sunroof when closed is kind of at an angle and lets in some road noise. Would love to get it perfectly flat when closed
 

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i wonder if that (sunroof alignment) is a common thing. My sunroof works fine (but I rarely use it) but notice passenger side rear needs to be adjusted upward about 1/8th of an inch or so to be at mfrs spec height
 

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also, allegedly, all windshields from the factory are designed to block UVB and UVA.


https://www.skincancer.org/prevention/are-you-at-risk/sun-hazards-in-your-car

But not sure what percentage and not sure if its truly all. Also, is it effective forever, or does some of the effectiveness fade over time?

Either way, I would get a front film applied too, if I was in Arizona/westcoast.
 

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And here's how the replaced pieces look

The drivers side slid right out- I swapped the piece in maybe 10 minutes (including taking off the chrome bits). The passenger side was a PITA though. Removing the old piece was a big challenge- ultimately, it had to be broken apart. After removing those busted pieces, it took about 30 minutes of carefully pushing this piece with all of my bodyweight, gradually sliding the plastic bit down that rail. But it finally did go on! The metal itself started to slide, so I jammed a screw driver in the end to keep it from moving. Maybe taking the plastic off the old rail wasn't such a good idea

There are some gaps which you can see in the pictures. Next up, I'm thinking about getting some Loctite adhesive to secure the plastic in place (I think rubber cement may not be strong enough). But then it will FINALLY look good :)

Bonus pics of the broken bits. As @liviu165 called out in a previous post, the part numbers are 1266920922 (left/drivers side) and 1266921022 (right/passenger side)
Hi Brian,

So I started making a 3D model of the "Sails" It's mostly done, I just need to finish it up and then reverse it.

Once finished I may put them up on Shapeways?

I have a number of parts I made up in SolidWorks.
 

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Awesome, Brian. Car looks fantastic.

I was in Las Vegas once and experienced 121 degrees. I was sure I could see my wood pieces cracking before my eyes. Good move on the tint.
That's what it would regularly get up to in Lancaster, and why I fled to the East Coast!
 
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