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i know you've all said that his car doesn't have any clear coat. but i have what seems like the clear coat peeling all over the roof of the car.

it's getting pretty bad. i can provide pics later today if anyone's interesting in seeing something very depressing
 

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Silver would always have clearcoat. By 1995 only 040 black was not clearcoated. If it's the factory clearcoat peeling it's probably seen considerable abuse.
 

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All 140 cars have a clear coat,, they used a base coat system that has to be followed up with a 2 pack top, in the early cars it is 2k.

If it is lifting, that is rotten luck, could the car have been resprayed at some point in time, some colours like red and gold are very weak and unstable, they can shift lifting the top coat in the process.

The only answer is it has to be sanded right off
 

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How long is the clear coat suppose to last? With each polish, the clear coat will be a little thinner...as the years progresses...I imagine it will get so thin that it will begin peel.
 

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Rick,

It may vary from color to color. More than likely, The solid colors "may" be non-clear coat colors. I just refinished(painted) W140 rear bumper and the color of the car is a gold two-tone car, and the bumper had a clear coat on it.

If the color is still good, a clear may be applied to save the paint job.

I've not seen a Mercedes clear-coated car peal; The cars that peal are the one's with a single-stage paint.

Here is what i would to save the paint job, but most shops will not do this, because they cannot warranty the work. Here is a test to see if the paint is damaged beyond repair, and just apply a clear coat(providing the color coat is in good shape)

1) "Color sand" with some 1000 or 800 grit(higher the number the finer the paper) wet n dry paper to test the area of the peeling area. Get 16oz of water and a drop or two of dish washing soap(to make the sand paper glide-do not add more soap) Use a rubber sanding block if possible.

2) Keep the paper wet at all times. Sand with light pressure to cut-in into the material.
If the color of the water, is turing up like the color of your car you have single stage paint. If the color is light milky white, you have a clear coat.

3) If you clean-up the area with water, and the pealing looks like it disappears while wet. Then the application of just a clear coat may save your paint job for about five to ten years before it peels again.

If it does not disappear while the car is wet after you sanded it, The color coat is damaged, and that section must be refinished.

Martin
 

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Rick,

It may vary from color to color. More than likely, The solid colors "may" be non-clear coat colors. I just refinished(painted) W140 rear bumper and the color of the car is a gold two-tone car, and the bumper had a clear coat on it.

If the color is still good, a clear may be applied to save the paint job.

I've not seen a Mercedes clear-coated car peal; The cars that peal are the one's with a single-stage paint.

Here is what i would to save the paint job, but most shops will not do this, because they cannot warranty the work. Here is a test to see if the paint is damaged beyond repair, and just apply a clear coat(providing the color coat is in good shape)

1) "Color sand" with some 1000 or 800 grit(higher the number the finer the paper) wet n dry paper to test the area of the peeling area. Get 16oz of water and a drop or two of dish washing soap(to make the sand paper glide-do not add more soap) Use a rubber sanding block if possible.

2) Keep the paper wet at all times. Sand with light pressure to cut-in into the material.
If the color of the water, is turing up like the color of your car you have single stage paint. If the color is light milky white, you have a clear coat.

3) If you clean-up the area with water, and the pealing looks like it disappears while wet. Then the application of just a clear coat may save your paint job for about five to ten years before it peels again.

If it does not disappear while the car is wet after you sanded it, The color coat is damaged, and that section must be refinished.

Martin
Sorry, I cannot agree on this, with any base coat system, and the cars use a base coat system you cannot flat or sand any part and then re coat, clear coat can only be used over a good base coat gun finish, and that finish cannot be touched or sanded.

I am a bit bewildered by the said use of solid colours and no clear top coat no matter what the colour.

The cars in the USA are not painted any differently to the ones that come to the UK, I have painted many of them in my time.

What paints were made, cellulose was a pigment based paint and that went out about 1987 ish, the 2k system came next, this is a 2 pack base coat and 2 pack clear top. Water based paint followed, a water base coat and 2k clear coat.

It is said that MB used some water based paint from 1990, not sure on this one, the paint used in the early 90's was certainly very brittle and stone chipped easily leaving large rusty scabs from stone chips.

2004 along came the ceramic fired Nano paint. Galvanizing did not start till first quarter 2003 but not on all models at first,,, the things still go rusty
 

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Don't polish a clear coat !!!

How long is the clear coat suppose to last? With each polish, the clear coat will be a little thinner...as the years progresses...I imagine it will get so thin that it will begin peel.
Have to be careful about car care products and terms. Old style polish products were meant to remove oxidation from the paint surface and should never be applied to a clear coat.

The whole point of clear coat is NOT polishing. The seal coat is permanent and is mean to provide that wet look with some depth to the finish.

You can WAX it with a NON polishing wax, but anyone who used oxidation removing polish on a clear coat more than likely ruined the finish.
 

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Above post is sooo wrong!!!

Why do companies like Meguiar's, Mother's and all of the small private companies make car polish? For people to clean their fucking cars you moron! Every car that has been produced past about 1960 or so, should have a clear coat, which you can polish as often as you want!! For you to say you don't polish clear coat is complete bullshit, why on earth do people clean their cars? Well, for one, clear coat scratches, it gets knicked by careless people with their doors, it gets chipped by rocks and so on. By saying you are not supposed to polish a clear coat, is like saying you can't/shouldn't clean a dirty car! If my car gets dirty, its getting cleaned, and I am sure as hell going to polish and wax the car. My father has been in the car business and auto detail business for decades, so I think I know a little more on this subject. Visit the detail forum if you need more information.
 

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This is not the best solution, but "A" solution to fix his appearance problem.

Just like not having the "factory part" to fix a "non-running" car, but using an "aftermarket part" to fix the "non-running" car, so it is running again!

It is a solution, but not the best answer! And it is a cost effective way of getting to the net result-Shiny car with uniform color...

It's very simple.. "we are not building satellites" here.. -Old car with old paint...


Martin
 

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I use this product called Liquid Glass. It's suppose to put a thin finish over the top of what ever you have on the car. If you can remove the existing clear coat and the existing paint is still good...than applying something like Liquid Glass may be something to try, couple this with a few layers of wax...it'll look as good as new...nothing to loose.
 

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Why do companies like Meguiar's, Mother's and all of the small private companies make car polish? For people to clean their fucking cars you moron! Every car that has been produced past about 1960 or so, should have a clear coat, which you can polish as often as you want!! For you to say you don't polish clear coat is complete bullshit, why on earth do people clean their cars? Well, for one, clear coat scratches, it gets knicked by careless people with their doors, it gets chipped by rocks and so on. By saying you are not supposed to polish a clear coat, is like saying you can't/shouldn't clean a dirty car! If my car gets dirty, its getting cleaned, and I am sure as hell going to polish and wax the car. My father has been in the car business and auto detail business for decades, so I think I know a little more on this subject. Visit the detail forum if you need more information.
Despite your vulgar protests, your ignorance is pretty substantial.

Clear over base didn't come to commercial success until early 80's.

Clear over base is a completely different coating process than your wax at home on top of oxidized paint from years past.

Do you even know what "polish" means ? Whether it is oxidized paint, or oxidized silver on a spoon, when you polish, you are REMOVING material.
When you polish granite or marble, you are removing material.

You can apply overcoats all you want on top of a clear coat. But you don't polish a clear coat.

Polish refers to REMOVAL of surface defects.

A wax on clear coat is merely an overcoat that fills in surface scratches.

If you are using a true abrasive polish, you are killing your clear coat.
 

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once it fails that's it.

you need to sand it down, spray a dusting of the base coat (cause you just sanded, remember) and reclear it again.

not as elaborate as an actual panel repaint but almost the same in many ways.

in very rare cases you can get away with just clear coat, without touching up the base coat. but don't count on it or budget it like that

paint fails due to sun and age. age is a few decades but sun will destroy it fast (5 years not uncommon in FL/TX/NM/AZ etc). humidity too can affect it but nothing is as bad as sun.

polishing actually removes paint so unless you can maintain the car (read: garage queen) you are doing more damage by filing paint off and thinning it. wax/sealants are very temporary despite all the claims of "once a year" "stays for 6 months". 1 week and its over.

it is not feasible to maintain a car that is driven in such a manner. and frankly, impossible
 

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Despite your vulgar protests, your ignorance is pretty substantial.

Clear over base didn't come to commercial success until early 80's.

Clear over base is a completely different coating process than your wax at home on top of oxidized paint from years past.

Do you even know what "polish" means ? Whether it is oxidized paint, or oxidized silver on a spoon, when you polish, you are REMOVING material.
When you polish granite or marble, you are removing material.

You can apply overcoats all you want on top of a clear coat. But you don't polish a clear coat.

Polish refers to REMOVAL of surface defects.

A wax on clear coat is merely an overcoat that fills in surface scratches.

If you are using a true abrasive polish, you are killing your clear coat.
Plus what he said. Are you on autopia by any chance?

Clear doesn't oxydize. Dulling of clear is actually surface deformations (pitting, water spots, orange peel, embedded contaminants, acid damage). You can only do so much to it before you run out of paint to shed. That's where wet sanding comes in when you really have deep deformations.

Single stage paint can be brought to life much better because there are no layers to contend with. You are filing away at the main paint. Next step is primer.. But once you are out of clear, you are done. Or once the clear fails, you cannot recover that. You cannot polish it or seal it. It is just gone.
 

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Pretty much, if there is color underneath, and the peeling is white, then it's the clear coat that has come off. The way to do it 100% right is to sand the bad clear coat off (it more than likely wasn't painted or prepped properly), possibly re-color the base coat, and repaint the clear. Of course, there are a million shortcuts, but don't expect the paint to last 20 years.
 

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Those brands (Meguiars, Mothers, etc) with polishing compounds, they all hurt the paint every time you polish it. If your clear coat gets dirty and water spotted, the polish will take it off. Clear coat itself does not oxidize, it does fade over time though from UV rays.

A polish job will "sand" down the paint, although very little. When you polish out swirls or scratches, what you are doing is sanding down the clear coat so the high spots become leveled down to the scratch's level, thus the scratch goes away. So yes, technically you are sanding your clear coat with a VERY fine substance, how abrasive they are depends on the product. Over time, yes, you are polishing away your clear coat. This is why people put on paint sealants and waxes to protect the clear coat. Don't get me wrong though, it isn't like a shield that blocks scratches and rock chips. It simply makes water spots and such easier to get off. The water stains/dirt/grime so to speak builds up on top of the wax, instead of clear coat. So when you remove it, it does less damage on your clear.

Instead of polishing (which hurts clear coat in the long run), you could use glazes. Glazes fill the "gaps" where the scratches are, and blend in the scratches so that you don't see it anymore. Therefore, swirls and such will "disappear". Then you protect it with a coat of paint sealant and/or wax. This is a temp fix on keeping the cars shiny and swirl free, but it is safer on the paint than polishing all the time.

As for the OP, if the clear coat is peeling, it is finished. It will never be like factory again unless you take it in for a re-paint.
 

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Yes, agreed. Use polish sparingly...and only on areas of the car that need it...If you can get away with wash and wax only...then do it...don't polish just because you think it needs it...
 

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Yes, agreed. Use polish sparingly...and only on areas of the car that need it...If you can get away with wash and wax only...then do it...don't polish just because you think it needs it...
I'd say wash, clay bar and then wax, and the finish will last longer.
Our 1997 E420 was a garage queen and just broke 48K miles. Paint is spotless. It gets a weekly to byweekly wash, and clay bar / wax monthly. The paint remains smooth and free of impurities longer.
My 75 Stingray got a paintjob about 16 yers ago. It was done on two stage base / clear coat; and to date it stays in great shape with same wash schedule.
My Heep on the other hand has clearcoat paint on roof and back hatch which had already started when I bought it in 2007; the only solution to that is to get if off the big tires for access, sanding and respraying of base and clear.

By the way, liquid glass is a great product; specially on black or solid colours.
Once you have washed your vehicle and used the clay bar to remove impurities, you can apply liquid glass much in the way of liquid wax, let it dry to a haze and then shine by hand.
 

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Just to defend myself, polish is not something that I use all of the time, and certainly not on the entire car, it is more for spot removal. With any modern paint, you can get away with using this method rather effectively and as long as your car's finish is maintained properly, you will not be harming your paint in any way. To the posters that say that you are filing down your clear, that is correct, but only a small amount. It would not even make much of a difference, since most commercial brands such as Mother's, Meguiar's, Pinnacle, etc are not in the business of messing up people's car finish, they would be getting sued left and right. Personally, I mainly use carnauba wax to clean my car, which is not going to mess anything up and it looks damn good too. How is Liquid Glass?
 
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