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Does it help to clean the MAF? Is it really possible to clean the MAF as others have suggested? I read the article below and it sounds very promising? Google Image Search
HAS anyone tried this and what was your experience? I would hate to dish out $300 if this can be done. I have already bought the radio Shack fluid as is mentioned in the article but have not yet started the cleaning process. When I do this would are there any precautions that I need to take?
Thanks in advance guys!
 

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I guess you need to find source why MAF is dirty... Probably some carter ventilation lines are closed or dirty and you have to clean them up as well.
 

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it would prolong it;'s life probably. doesn't hurt to clean it with crc maf cleaner or any electronic parts cleaner every 6 months or so.
take the whole maf out, then spray the insert with the maf cleanser, without touching the insert with your fingers or anything, let it dry, put it back, whole process like 5-10 minutes.
 

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FWIW, your link is defective, you didn't actually copy the page link. ;)

Having done this a couple of times I offer the following.

1. Cleaning the MAF will ALWAYS work if the problem you're trying to rectify is caused by a dirty MAF.

2. If you're going to clean it, do it right. Purchase some MAF cleaner at an auto parts store, don't try to use something else.

3. To clean it, remove the MAF assembly from the car, and then remove the sensor insert from the assembly. You can't properly get to the sensor (which typically is the issue) without removing it from the assembly. Do a search and you'll find how this is done.

4. You don't have to spend $300. Ron (germanstar.net) sells the sensor inserts for around $120. Caveat: Bosch says that each sensor is "calibrated" to the assembly as part of the target vehicle, so you shouldn't replace just the sensor. Anecdotally -- from the posts in this and similar forums -- those who have done so haven't reported any problems.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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2001 E 430
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MAF Cleaning

I just did mine this last weekend. I posted a thread a while back describing what my symptoms were and I got answers back saying it was more then likely my MAF sensor. So I purchased some MAF cleaner from a parts store, $5-$7, as well as some security torx bits for removing the sensor. WOW, what a difference. After reinstalling she ran a little odd. Let her warm up for a bit and took her out for a quick spin, not to mentioning the fact I pissed off some chick driving in front of me, but after leaving her in a cloud of dust I was up to 110mph in no time. Before I was having trouble passing and picking up speed, she would choke and sputter and then kick in with the speed, but now, really responsive. Now I've got another issue though. At cold start she shakes and almost boggs down to nothing, but I'm pretty sure it's my fuel filter, which is next on the list of maintenance, but after shes warmed up, she screams down the road like nothing. It doesn't hurt anything if you do decide to clean it and from the directions on the bottle, it's recommended that you clean the MAF with every air filter change.:thumbsup:
 

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2008 BMW 528i,1999 Lexus 400LS, 2014 e250 BlueTec
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Capt. E 430,
Good for you! Glad to hear you got it fixed.
gregs210 did very good DYI that will benefit many, many people and let them save $300 to $400 money! Showing some appreciation will be nice!
 

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Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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Its the normal problem, clean the MAF (mass air flow sensor) and shortly afterwards problems arise. Gentlemen you cannot clean the air flow sensor and expect it to live long. It has a special chemical coating and if you clean it with chemicals, then this coating is broken. Hence more problems.
 

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Oo == oO 98 E320
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Is there a reason why a new air filter would kick off a problem with the MAF? Seems like that would be a good thing not detrimental?
 

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A new air filter not installed properly, i.e. not completely sealed all the way around the box could cause the problem as could a K&N filter.

Len
 

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I had once cleaned MAF and check Eng went off for about 2.5 months but came back. Cleaned it again with CRC real good. This time it has been over 4 months but no Check Eng.
 

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what is CRC? I went to autozone and asked the guy for MAF cleaner and pointed me to STP Throttle Body cleaner. Didn't think this was right so I didn't buy it. Will the STP work?

Jeff
 

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nah, carb/throttlebody/brake cleaner will leave a residue.

you need either electronics cleaner or maf cleaner.

CRC is the name brand of these products.
 

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tui0jst said:
what is CRC? I went to autozone and asked the guy for MAF cleaner and pointed me to STP Throttle Body cleaner. Didn't think this was right so I didn't buy it. Will the STP work?

Jeff
Hi, Jeff.

You're right, he was full of it. I bought the stuff I have (not sure if it's CRC, but it's definitely MAF cleaner) at Kragen, which is alternatively called Checker and Shucks depending on your location in the US.

Other than the single opinion in this thread, I've never heard anyone say that cleaning a MAF would hurt it or shorten it's life. So long as it is done properly, it will restore a dirty MAF to proper function. It's also a good test: if you have a MAF code and cleaning it does not take care of the issue, then you know it wasn't dirty. :)

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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So I shouldn't clean it just to clean it? I should take it in to autozone and have them put the diagnostic on it to see if I get the code? What is the code I would be looking for? Also, someone said they do this for free? Is this correct?

Jeff
 

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tui0jst said:
So I shouldn't clean it just to clean it? I should take it in to autozone and have them put the diagnostic on it to see if I get the code? What is the code I would be looking for? Also, someone said they do this for free? Is this correct?

Jeff
Hi, Jeff.

If you don't have a CEL illuminated, don't worry about anything.

When you have a CEL illuminated, my understanding is that Autozone and some other parts stores will plug in and download your error codes for free. However, they will just give you the codes and then you have to translate/troubleshoot them. It's not as though they plug in the meter and it says "Hey, change the MAF". Rather, it's Pxxxx (where the 'x' represents an integer) or something like that, completely meaningless until you translate it. That's why service entities charge for a CEL diagnosis, because they not only download the codes, they translate and troubleshoot to determine why the code is in there.

There is no prescribed maintenance for the MAF. Unless it (or any other sensor) is throwing codes you should simply leave well enough alone. When you get a code that represents (or translates to) the MAF, you can then clean it, if it's dirty and you clean it properly that will fix the problem. If contamination wasn't the problem, then you have to replace it anyway.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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I finally got hold of torx tool to remove MAF insert. Took it out and cleaned it just to do better cleaning job. gregs210 is right to recommend taking insert out to clean it properly.
 

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So I shouldn't clean it just to clean it? I should take it in to autozone and have them put the diagnostic on it to see if I get the code? What is the code I would be looking for? Also, someone said they do this for free? Is this correct?

Jeff
Autozone allows you to use their OBDC equipment, just give your DL and use in front of their stores, some of their employee even help you do that. But I got bad experience to share on store 5942 out of Glassel/Katella in Orange county , CA where the store manager wanted me to put my DL and credit card as collateral to use their OBDC outside the store. I complained to the district manager and he confirmed that was not Autozone policy and the store manager could not create their own policy, boy he was such an arrogant jerk.
 

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Gregs210, I got a question for you;
Last week end I tried to clean my MAF after buying the torx keys. I found out the space was really tight and if I accidently drop the screws I might not be able to get it back. I looked into the plastic mesh that covers the MAF and I just sprayed the MAF through the mesh cover holes. Is that okay? And why there are two of them? the bigger one was positioned on the right hand side (if we are looking from the front side) and below there is a smaller one from the left side. What is it?
Thanks

Frank
 
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