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I just bought the meguiars clay kit ( came with the bar, the quick detail and a small bottle of there wax) I was reading the instructions and it says " DO NOT USE WATER TO LUBRICATE SURFACE"They say to only use their qucik detail stuff?? Do i have too or can i just use water and soap?

thanks!
 

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kevinpuri said:
I just bought the meguiars clay kit ( came with the bar, the quick detail and a small bottle of there wax) I was reading the instructions and it says " DO NOT USE WATER TO LUBRICATE SURFACE"They say to only use their qucik detail stuff?? Do i have too or can i just use water and soap?

thanks!
I have the same type question, I also brought the very same product, the clay bar
worked great (first time user), however the "quick detail" is just about out, so what can I use? Do not want to have to buy bottles of quick detail. For your information cut the clay bar into 1/3, and just use 1/3. Claying the car goes very quick.
 

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Use Muriatic acid................Just kidding. You only need a little spritz to lube the paint, why not do what they suggest and spend a couple of bucks on ANY quick detailer?
 

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There's a reason they tell you to use detailing spray, if it's not lubricated properly, the clay with sort of stick to the paint as you swipe it and you may end up with bits of clay residue. So they figured out how much lubricant is enough but not to much so it's not effective. By using soapy water you will achieve the results you want assuming you did it right, not too much, not to little soap. So how do you know what's right? You don't, it's all trial and error and I don't have time for error but I got $6 for detailing spray... For me, I rarely use up the bottle of detailing spray before I mess up the bar (drop it, get it too dirty, etc). If you find that you are using up a lot of detailing spray, then get Meguiars professional detailer line of products because then you get a gallon and each refil bottle of detailer spray may cost you $2 instead of $6 (16.99 for a gallon vs $6 for 16 oz).

 

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The reason they say do not use soap and water is because some people will just slap the soap on a dirty car and then use the clay bar on it causing scratches. If you want to use soap water then you have to wash the car three times. Once to get the dirt off, second time to clay the car and a third to wash some of the clay residue off.

Soap water dries quickly so you have to hold a soapy sponge in one hand and the clay bar in the other and do a wipe on wipe off thing.

I have used soapy water to clay and it works fine.
 

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Yal said:
The reason they say do not use soap and water is because some people will just slap the soap on a dirty car and then use the clay bar on it causing scratches. If you want to use soap water then you have to wash the car three times. Once to get the dirt off, second time to clay the car and a third to wash some of the clay residue off.

Soap water dries quickly so you have to hold a soapy sponge in one hand and the clay bar in the other and do a wipe on wipe off thing.

I have used soapy water to clay and it works fine.
Cannot see the difference, to use the product it states wash the car first, then use the detailer, so if there is still dirt, how is the detailer go to help when you place the clay bar down and start rubbing when the spot may still have dirt?
 

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I think what he meant that typically, you wash the car, pretty obvious, you don't want to clay over dirt. Then you use detailing spray to clay the car and you wipe off the detailing spray as you go, excess evaporates. If you were to use soapy water, it would leave a residue of soap so you would have to wash the car again.
 

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Clay Bar

Just be sure to use car wash soap as the lubricant and not something from your kitchen. Don't use Simple Green either, it turns the clay into mush.

Claying is a delicate process, if you don't have the surface properly lubed then all the contaminants you've picked up so far will scratch across your paint and leave your paint in worse condition than when you started.

Also, start at the top and work your way down. Just like when washing, most of the grit will be closer to the bottom of the car and that's what you want to pickup last.
 

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Along with what these guys have said, I have also read somewhere of somebody using windex to lube the paint. I've only used the detailing spray, but I'd be interested in hearing from anybody who has tried using windex.
 

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Ammonia in Windex is so corrosive I don't know why anyone would do that. People don't realize that paint is an a semi-solid state with oils in it. If you consistantly put harsh chemicals on it you will slowly leach out these oils and the paint will get chalky and dry out shortening the paints life. Doesn't much matter if you buy a new car every few years so people do it without the consequence. BTW, google Windex and paint and see how many people recomend Windex as a latex paint remover.
 

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Buellwinkle said:
I think what he meant that typically, you wash the car, pretty obvious, you don't want to clay over dirt. Then you use detailing spray to clay the car and you wipe off the detailing spray as you go, excess evaporates. If you were to use soapy water, it would leave a residue of soap so you would have to wash the car again.

Thanks Buellwinkle thats what I meant.


The original poster wanted to know if they could use soap water, the answer is yes.
Using Windex is insanity. Using dish washing soap is fine, it strips the wax, but you are going to wax anyway after you clay.
 

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Buellwinkle said:
Ammonia in Windex is so corrosive I don't know why anyone would do that. People don't realize that paint is an a semi-solid state with oils in it. If you consistantly put harsh chemicals on it you will slowly leach out these oils and the paint will get chalky and dry out shortening the paints life. Doesn't much matter if you buy a new car every few years so people do it without the consequence. BTW, google Windex and paint and see how many people recomend Windex as a latex paint remover.
Good point. I knew that paint was always "wet" with oils inside, but didn't think about ammonia drying out those oils. Luckily I asked before I experimented.
 

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There are no "oils" (like emoillent oils) within paint so you can't dry them out.

Also, the reason they sell clay with detailer spray and then tell you to only use it is because they want you to buy more and more. You don't need detailer spray all you need is some water....and a few drops of car shampoo in a 32oz bottle.

You can also clay with straight water in a pinch. It is said that with water only the clay can "cut" more.....how true that is I have no idea.

Anthony
 

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Just going by what the experts say, the chemists at Meguiars I've spoken to. Here's something from their website about the natural oils in paint/clearcoat, search for the word oil in their page.

http://www.meguiars.com/europe/fastrack/fastrack_browse.cfm

As for water with soap, the issue wasn't that you can't use it, it's just that soap leaves a film so you have to wash the car afterwards, not a big deal for some, just extra work. Then how much soap is enough, too much, it's trial and error and maybe you get lucky, maybe not. Also, they have to make the product reasonably foolproof for consumers and while you can experiment with different fluids, they've taken the guess work out of it for you.

What's interesting is the CeramiClear from PPG that's used on the newer MBs. They claim 80% of the original shine after 5 years, their standard clear is 20% using a standard car wash. Imagine if that's true, you would never need a detailer again, just run it through the wash every week, and it's as shiny as new, year after year. I can't speak for 5 years but I stumped the people at Meguiars when they looked at my car with zero swirls, only been washed for free over and over again by the dealer. I clayed it once to remove the grit on the car when delivered and it's never needed claying since. My car is 2 years old now and the slight swirls are less than what I had on my older 2002 MB after a day and I've never polished this car.
 

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Thanks for the article.

One portion of the article reads......

The sun dries out top paint layers and natural oils are lost. If these oils aren't replaced, the paint oxidizes and the surface gradually becomes duller and duller.

This is hogwash. I would like to know which "oils" they view as "natural"? Do they mean petroleum distillates or oils like almond oil, banana oil, etc.? It's not "emoilent" type oils and while oils are in paint they are not lost due to the sun drying them out. So this is just marketing fluff designed to misguide the general public into thinking if they don't replace these "oils" then their car paint will dry out. These started years back when Zymol added oils to their products and created the whole "oils in paint need to be replenished" deal......which Meguiars had a hand in if I am not mistaken.

If anyone from Meguiars could clarify this it would be great. Perhaps I am mistaken.

Anthony
 

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Perhaps it's better to post that question on the meguiarsonline.com forum since their people read it and can clarify. I'm not one to believe that you can replenish oils in paint, it's like believing that hand cream replenishes oil in your skin. What I do believe is by using harsh products, you can dry out the paint such as you can dry out your hair or skin by using harsh soaps.
 

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I just bought the meguiars clay kit ( came with the bar, the quick detail and a small bottle of there wax) I was reading the instructions and it says " DO NOT USE WATER TO LUBRICATE SURFACE"They say to only use their qucik detail stuff?? Do i have too or can i just use water and soap?

thanks!

I just bought the same product today and will clay tomorrow.

I have already completed cleaning the whole car with Meguiars medium cut cleaner.

I am about to clay the thing with the quick detail ..

What should I do after that?

One option is to go straight to the wax,

or ..

polish first and then wax?!?!

Opinions please.

:confused:
 

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I just bought the same product today and will clay tomorrow.

I have already completed cleaning the whole car with Meguiars medium cut cleaner.

I am about to clay the thing with the quick detail ..

What should I do after that?

One option is to go straight to the wax,

or ..

polish first and then wax?!?!

Opinions please.

:confused:
Rubbing compounds are best left alone if you can.
After you clay ... have a beer. It requires a lot of patience and you have to suppress the urge to apply pressure and be done with it -- but the results are worth it. Good amount of shine will return and the surface should be smooth to touch.

Then use a paint restorer (e.g Wolfgang Prewax Polish Enhancer or Klasse AIO) it is for removing older wax / sealant and polishing the car.

Then you can go acrylic or Wax or both. For Acrylic you can use a paint sealant (e.g. Wolfgang deep Gloss paint Sealant or Klasse Sealant glaze). You can repeat the coat after 24 hours. For sealant remember that a little goes a long way. Too much will mean a lot more work to buff it out. Follow instructions. That should give you good protection. But not the wet look. To get that you can wax right after the polish of put a coat of wax after the sealant. Using the sealant is practical since it lasts anywhere between 3 -6 months. But some enthusiasts prefer the Carnauba wax only.
 

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The key to a good looking shiny finish with gloss and depth starts with the prep before the final LSP. If you need to do some minor correction, use a good polish or paint cleaner, or even an AOI product.

Most sealants last longer than a straight wax, but some like the nuba look for the shine. You can top a sealant with a wax for increased durability but usually not the other way around.

Tons of great products out there to try out on your ride. Most of the German brands, Wolfgang, Werkstatt, Einszett, Menzerna, etc, work great on MB paint.
 

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Rubbing compounds are best left alone if you can.
After you clay ... have a beer. It requires a lot of patience and you have to suppress the urge to apply pressure and be done with it -- but the results are worth it. Good amount of shine will return and the surface should be smooth to touch.

Then use a paint restorer (e.g Wolfgang Prewax Polish Enhancer or Klasse AIO) it is for removing older wax / sealant and polishing the car.

Then you can go acrylic or Wax or both. For Acrylic you can use a paint sealant (e.g. Wolfgang deep Gloss paint Sealant or Klasse Sealant glaze). You can repeat the coat after 24 hours. For sealant remember that a little goes a long way. Too much will mean a lot more work to buff it out. Follow instructions. That should give you good protection. But not the wet look. To get that you can wax right after the polish of put a coat of wax after the sealant. Using the sealant is practical since it lasts anywhere between 3 -6 months. But some enthusiasts prefer the Carnauba wax only.


The key to a good looking shiny finish with gloss and depth starts with the prep before the final LSP. If you need to do some minor correction, use a good polish or paint cleaner, or even an AOI product.

Most sealants last longer than a straight wax, but some like the nuba look for the shine. You can top a sealant with a wax for increased durability but usually not the other way around.

Tons of great products out there to try out on your ride. Most of the German brands, Wolfgang, Werkstatt, Einszett, Menzerna, etc, work great on MB paint.

Looks like there are couple of ways to do it properly.

I decided, after claying I'll go with:

polish

wax

sealant

wax again.


Is this ok guys?!?

:cool:
 
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