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Discussion Starter #21
It has always idled high at start. ...like at 10. Then after about 30 seconds it drops below 10. It does not shake. I鈥檓 not a car person, obviously 馃槈, so I don鈥檛 think it runs rough. The acceleration is ok. If I step on it, it goes but not like it used to at a any pace up the hills but not like my old car that seemed like to.
 

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I would try removing the MAF connector and start and run the car to see if there is much of a difference.

The MAF (brand name like Bosch or OE (MB)) is not cheap. If they have a scanner that can read the MAF airflow output (in grams / second or kg / hour) when the car is idling, and after the engine is fully warmed up, it will give some indication if the MAF is working. Also press the gas pedal to increase the rpms and see the changes in the MAF output. I would also make sure that there are no vacuum leaks in the intake, especially between the MAF and the throttle.
 

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I am not good at reading the handwriting, but, I guess you need to get a new fuel cap. $10 to $20. You can get one online suitable for your car.

Talks about smoke during start up and failed emissions tests.
Need to know which emissions tests have failed (from the scanner). You should be able to get the emissions test readout from a scanner provided a parts shop, or someone you know who has one. Also any fault codes that are current need to be posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok we replaced the mass air flow sensor. Check engine light went out. I went to get it smoged and failed.
 

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Was the battery disconnected / fault codes cleared before or after the MAF sensor replacement ?
If the codes are cleared, the engine computer goes through the emissions readiness monitoring mode, and checks the ignition. misfire, fuel, O2 sensor heaters, O2 sensors, secondary air induction system, catalytic converters, evaporative emissions (related to your gas cap), egr system......
If any of the tests fails or not completed, I guess this is the complaint.

This is the information that is needed. What failed and / or what is incomplete. The information given, apart from a fuel cap replacement, is not enough.

You should either obtain this information from the tester, or get the engine scanned with a scanner to find out what the status for the emission readiness indicators are.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Was the battery disconnected / fault codes cleared before or after the MAF sensor replacement ?
If the codes are cleared, the engine computer goes through the emissions readiness monitoring mode, and checks the ignition. misfire, fuel, O2 sensor heaters, O2 sensors, secondary air induction system, catalytic converters, evaporative emissions (related to your gas cap), egr system......
If any of the tests fails or not completed, I guess this is the complaint.

This is the information that is needed. What failed and / or what is incomplete. The information given, apart from a fuel cap replacement, is not enough.

You should either obtain this information from the tester, or get the engine scanned with a scanner to find out what the status for the emission readiness indicators are.
The mechanic at the shop said for the white smoke at start to try changing my oil to a heavier weight..10w30, now I do need an oil change. He also said something about like a lucas stabilizer..I wrote it down but now can't remember why I wrote it. He also mentioned something about hard to tell without a $150 diagnostic test or talk to my mechanic. He mentioned pistons and it may be an engine thing. I'm just dying as he's saying these things.
I not reading anything, we had just replaced the MAF and cleared the codes. I drove it like 3 miles. He told me I need to drive it like 75 miles to get something on there. I drive the car no more than 5 miles a day now that I changed jobs. UGH!
I am getting with my brother-in-law tomorrow to check things again. The dang engine light came back on.
 

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It takes time and several drive cycles for the emissions readiness sensors to be completed. With the new engine light ON, it may indicate something that can be fixed. Visible bluish smoke indicates that your car is burning oil. Higher viscosity (10w40, even 15w50) oil may reduce smoke during start-up. You may try some additive for oil burning from your auto store or even Walmart. How effective they are, I do not know. Maybe he recommended below.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/LUCAS-OIL-10001-Heavy-Duty-Oil-Stabilizer-Quart/16777811
 
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