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I have just bought an 1982 240D and would like to make the correct choice on engine oil. The vehicle has been using Rotella T and I have always been told to never change the brand of oil. The vehicle has over 250000 miles and other than a minor oil leak runs well. I would like to get on a routine with oil changes and would value any input from the group.

Phillip Taylor
Wilmington NC
 

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1984 300D Turbo
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I too am about to change the oil in my "new" benz and would like a suggestion as well. It is a 1984 300D turbo with 205,000 miles. I have no idea what kind of oil was being put in but it was being changed every 3000. The car burns no oil (at least not enough to have to add any between changes) and the only leak I have is a small one around the oil cap. I think I would like to go synthetic but also am looking for suggestions.

Oh and the car is an automatic if that matters.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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I have used the following:

Mobil 1 Delvac
Chevron Delo Multigrade
Shell Rotella T

Did not notice any significant change. Just "change it hot and change it often" [8D]

Synthetic is too expensive for me. $6 per quart? [:0]

Not sure if 240D and 300D have same capacities for oil but one rule of thumb: DO NOT OVERFILL

Your oil pressure gauge will read higher than normal (mine does this). It has been said that overfilling by over a quart will and might lead to a runaway diesel engine. Not familiar with the science of it but maybe others will chime in their expertise (or memory[:D]).

Put in like 6 quarts (1 gallon and 2 quarts) and test drive, check level and add accordingly.

Oil filters:

Mann, Hengst, Bosch, or Knecht.
 

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2008 PT, 1998 neon--1965 VW 1200
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2,533 Posts
6.5 quarts?!?

when i had my oil changed the first(and only) time they wrote on my inner fender well 8.5!!

should i worry about this?

my dad said shell rotella for diesels and havoline for gassers. our fleet(97 intrepid, 97 ram, 98 neon) have been great cars, but i have to wonder, the neon is the only one that hasnt had its bearings replaced.

hmm! anyhoo, ive run it on rotella and it seems fine! i worried at first about how black the oil was as compared to my gas car but it isnt acting any stupider than any other almost 30 year old with a chip off their shoulder, so im not worried much!

good luck, welcome and get used to my nonsensical ramblings, theyre frequent!
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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I think the max is around 7 quarts, or 7.x quarts. If the dipstick shows like a cm above the top mark, it should be fine. But anything more... drain some oil out to be safe. That's what I would do.

Yeah black is normal for diesel. Shocked me too the first time [:D]
 

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1982 300D Turbo
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8 quarts with filter[:p] on the 300 d turbo i mean
 

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You can change brands at will or mix eight quarts of different brands if you really want. The only thing I've ever heard is that once an engine has run synthetic it can be harmful to switch back to petro oil, but I think that may be an urban myth.
 

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1982 300D Turbo
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HEY, as long as that puppy has oil she'll run forever. Done deal
 

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Stevenpfaff - 4/19/2005 7:02 AM

You can change brands at will or mix eight quarts of different brands if you really want. The only thing I've ever heard is that once an engine has run synthetic it can be harmful to switch back to petro oil, but I think that may be an urban myth.
I think it's true.
 

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1990 300SE, 1983 300D
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I live by Mobil oil. I dont use anything else. I put 7 quarts in my diesel, and some of that Lucas stuff.
 

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1982 240D M/T White
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I looked around for oils and decided upon Rotella Synthethic 5w40. Not the "highest end" synthethic but ~$13.50/gallon at Walmart (which is discontinuing it) so it is affordable.

Since your car was running on Rotella convential 15w40 before, the additives should "get along".

is the only issue with changing oils, in a few rare cases additives react with each other and have undesireable effects. (So THROUGHLY drain (over-night ?) and rock the engine when changing brands. And waste 1 quart of the new, just let it run through & drain.

Said rare interactions are NEVER disasterous, just not desireable.

PS: My new car had the oil changed every 6 months. About 47 oil changes for 72,800 miles. VERY tight engine :)
 

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1983 300 D turbo
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Okay, what is the truth about mixing synthetic oil and dino oil...and is it true you cannot switch back once you start with the synthetic...and why?
I am about to try that amsoil product as I like what I read in their ad's and web site. But, if I did not notice much difference, I was going to switch back, and now I have a concern.
Guide me O' Wise One with your words of wisdom...
 

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1984 300CD, 1983 240TD Euro
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Synthetic in a 123 diesel...just say no!

Speaking of Synthetic...I was at the local Mercedes dealer the other day and asked about using Synthetic oil in 123 turbo diesels. The service managers response was a resounding "NO, these are NOT synthetic engines" [:0]

(meaning of course do not use synthetic oil in your vintage diesel.)[8D]
 

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1991 300 SE
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There was a concern that synthetic oil would loosen and remove deposits imbedded in the seals, once removed the old seals would leak. Supposedly M1 oils are now formulated to avoid this problem. I use dino oil in my older MBs because they have leaks (not too bad) and the idea of that relatively expensive synthetic leaking on the ground is not very appealing to me. And, yes, I’m concerned that the leaks may indeed worsen if I use synthetic. That may be why some may say the OM 617 is ‘not a synthetic engine.’

I’m not aware of any problem with going back from synthetic to dino – of course one would have to ask why since synthetic is better, one should not want to go back.

The only thing I know for sure is that the poster who said he adds Lucas oil needs to drain his crankcase now and refill – the Lucas causes the oil to foam and not protect well.
 

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1982 300D Turbo
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And Lucas makes the oil thicker wich is harder for the pump and takes away lubrication. Just keep it SIMPLE
 
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