[easyreiter]

Friends, we have a ’99 ML320 (244k miles now) which has been a great car for us. One problem we’ve had (and gotten worse over this summer) is that frequently, after starting car back up, it won’t shift up from 2nd to 3rd. If you bring car to a stop, put back in park and then go back to drive, then it will be fine. This is annoying.

A couple of weeks ago, I changed the 13-pin connector plug. (I did not have any transmission codes cleared.) I do think the old one was leaking, but I can’t say for sure. I believe that changing the plug has helped, however, the problem is still cropping up, although less frequently. (With regard to the TCM under the dash, I took the plastic panel off so I could at least see the TCM, but I didn’t go any further, to be honest I’m kinda afraid to mess with it, but maybe that’s dumb?)

I have sitting in garage, ATF fluid, filter, gasket, and a new conductor plate. But I’m a little stymied about what to do. I think I will change ATF fluid (I doubt it’s ever been done before), but I was thinking of simply returning the conductor plate and calling it good enough. If I keep the conductor plate in order to change it, will it be necessary to have the transmission codes cleared (by someone w/ proper tool) in order to receive any benefit?

Incidentally, Car was at independent mechanic about a week ago (for a separate problem), I asked him if he could read the specific transmission codes, and he wrote on a tag for me these codes: 104, 116, 135, and 137.
Any thoughts/comments/wisdom would be appreciated indeed!

 

[khomer2]

Presuming error codes P0*** on your list,
Try disconnecting the MAF for a drive and see if it changes anything. It sets the ECU to a default setting.

As for the TCM, if you replaced the tranny adapter, and the previous connection was dry, I would still recommend you check the TCM harness connection to make sure it also is dry.
Check the ATF color ===> it’s going to be dark brown black ===> fluid change is needed....yesterday.

 

[Witek_M]

Incidentally, Car was at independent mechanic about a week ago (for a separate problem), I asked him if he could read the specific transmission codes, and he wrote on a tag for me these codes: 104, 116, 135, and 137.
Any thoughts/comments/wisdom would be appreciated indeed!

Here is list of three digit ETC codes along with possible faults and tests/remedies. None of yours qualify for conductor plate replacement. Code 137 points to communication issue with TC module. Codes need to be read from there as well.

STAR TekInfo

 

[easyreiter]

Thank you both of you guys--super helpful! I will plan to change the ATF and also to check the TCM harness connection (I think I can find guidance for that on the website here somewhere). (Yes, I think those were ETC codes, I had asked the mechanic if he could read the transmission specific codes.)

 

[springerfever]

Good luck with the removal. That is one tough SOB ! Keep us posted......overnight soaking in Kroil Oil might help loosen that bear...!!

 

[Witek_M]

Good luck with the removal. That is one tough SOB ! Keep us posted......overnight soaking in Kroil Oil might help loosen that bear...!!

So, what are we spraying with Kroil?

 

[easyreiter]

Folks, again thanks so much for the guidance (I think these discussion groups are very cool)! So here's what I'm proposing to do as a first step--please feel free to critique this, I will not take any offense:

I have 5 liters of Pentosin ATF134 (I see Fuchs is also on the bottle labels). I plan to drop the pan off the transmission, change the filter and gasket, and then refill to proper level (using the careful methods described in various threads). Does this sound okay? I presume this will be a refreshment for the transmission! (We bought this ML320 about 4 years ago for $2300.)

 

[springerfever]

Good luck with the removal. That is one tough SOB ! Keep us posted......overnight soaking in Kroil Oil might help loosen that bear...!!

MY bad...I meant to post on the harmonic balancer thread ........

 

[wallyo]

Folks, again thanks so much for the guidance (I think these discussion groups are very cool)! So here's what I'm proposing to do as a first step--please feel free to critique this, I will not take any offense:

I have 5 liters of Pentosin ATF134 (I see Fuchs is also on the bottle labels). I plan to drop the pan off the transmission, change the filter and gasket, and then refill to proper level (using the careful methods described in various threads). Does this sound okay? I presume this will be a refreshment for the transmission! (We bought this ML320 about 4 years ago for $2300.)

Sounds good with one exception which method?
There is drain measure replace
or
bring to operation temp measure with dip stick tool.

If your connector plug was leaking even a drop a day x's days=? as to how short you may be.

on the 500 I measured and replaced. about 4.5 quarts

On the 350 I did the it all: fluid, filter, plug and the conductor plate. 350 took out 3 quarts. I put in about 4.5 quarts.
The pilot bushing was leaking, not bad but a bit. The conductor plate was preventative, but i did find very small copper flakes between the plate and the valve body. So it was getting ready to fail, the portion that heads to the 13 pins had a lot of flex.

Both I took to the dealer and asked for a courtesy fluid check. The 500 was spot on. The 350 the service manager brought it back and said it was down 1.5 quarts and they topped it off. I asked what I owed, No Charge!

So either buy the dipstick or head to the dealer for a courtesy check

 

[easyreiter]

I do have the dipstick so I can use the dipstick method--again that's excellent info--thank you!

 

[Witek_M]

Folks, again thanks so much for the guidance (I think these discussion groups are very cool)! So here's what I'm proposing to do as a first step--please feel free to critique this, I will not take any offense:

I have 5 liters of Pentosin ATF134 (I see Fuchs is also on the bottle labels). I plan to drop the pan off the transmission, change the filter and gasket, and then refill to proper level (using the careful methods described in various threads). Does this sound okay? I presume this will be a refreshment for the transmission! (We bought this ML320 about 4 years ago for $2300.)

Make sure to get dipstick and magnet for the pan.

P0715 again

I never said I bought a replacement valve body. I had replaced the conductor plate , the electrical plug and filter with genuine parts. Whats the etc ? Electronic throttle control??

www.benzworld.org

 

[easyreiter]

Update: Folks, thanks so much for the guidance! I dropped transmission oil pan yesterday and refilled to proper level with new fluid. (I did this w/o jacking car up, was tricky getting the pan out without spilling fluid all over.)

Question for y’all: so far, I have not unplugged the TCM in order to check it for oil contamination. Let’s suppose (if our funny shifting issues continue to bother or get worse) that I attempt to go ahead and check it. Would it be necessary to disconnect negative terminal from battery first? The reason I ask this, is that about three years ago (?) I replaced the battery on the car. After I installed the new battery, I drove around the neighborhood and the car was acting rather erratic (I don’t remember just what all happened, the BAS light came on I think, it did some weird braking noises etc.), and then at some point that same afternoon, it all seemed to straighten out. I was afraid I had accidentally ruined the car! And so I thought something like: I must be careful to never replace the battery on this thing again! So that is why I ask whether it would be necessary to disconnect battery!

Depending on answer, I think I could feel comfortable unplugging the TCM to look it over for signs of oil. (I don’t see any indication of oil just looking at it in its plugged-in location.)

(Incidentally, although I certainly appreciate the suggestion, I have not tried disconnecting the MAF either, because of the same concerns about messing with the car’s brain.?)

 

[Witek_M]

Just turn key off and pull it out of ignition.

 

[easyreiter]

Awesome, thank you Witek M!

 

[wallyo]

i
Update: Folks, thanks so much for the guidance! I dropped transmission oil pan yesterday and refilled to proper level with new fluid. (I did this w/o jacking car up, was tricky getting the pan out without spilling fluid all over.)

I forget the cut off date? But if you have a plug did you drain the torque converter? There may of been a mid year cut off in 99. Witek would know. I assume you replaced the filter.?

According to Peach parts you do.
If you still have old fluid get a paint strainer and strain the old fluid, look for Copper flakes.

Drain torque converter for ML. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

To drain the torque converter the drain plug must be in the down position. To get the drain plug in the down position the conventional way is to turn

www.peachparts.com