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SLK 230 & SLK350 and Jaguar XF PL
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Discussion Starter #1
Central Locking Pump has got itself water logged, dealer wants £500 + research into why + possible new seals it also floored the battery. No signs of burning (as bad pse pics thread) so hoping to just dry out and try again. Have sourced a used one for £70 total.
What a stupid place to put it with wet golf clubs, brollys, coats, and shopping going on top of it nearly every day.
Should have been a recall with the fire safety issues and a more waterproof cover as well.

gary
 

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2002 SLK 32 AMG
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I wrapped mine as best I could in a trash compactor bag (fairly thick plastic). Water could still run down the wires and pneumatic lines into the pump, but I think it has a much better chance than it did. I got the idea from someone on this forum and figured better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
16falcon - 4/15/2005 11:58 AM

I wrapped mine as best I could in a trash compactor bag (fairly thick plastic). Water could still run down the wires and pneumatic lines into the pump, but I think it has a much better chance than it did. I got the idea from someone on this forum and figured better safe than sorry.
Did you find out where the water came from?
 

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Maybe others who have actually had this happen can tell you for sure.

Here is my understanding: The right (or left I suppose) side drain that is on the forward part of the trunk channel (with the black plastic screen on it) gets clogged up (with leaves or debris) so when it rains the channel fills with water and leaks around the trunk seal into the trunk. Apparently the water runs down the pneumatic or electrical lines right into the pump electronics. This has also caused people's alarms to go off randomly.[:(]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have just taken the pump apart its toast, if I had joined the r170 site a little earlier it would have saved me money. Anyone who has not protected their pump do so now, a plastic bag will do.

gary - thanks for the info.
 

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slkpwr - 4/16/2005 11:26 AM

can you show us or tell us on how you got to the PSE? kind of like a DIY.. pics would be good.. thanks!
Sorry, I didn't think to take pictures when I had it all apart the other day. After MB replaced the taillight assemblies due to the melted brake light sockets, they forgot to re-connect the CD changer power and fiber optic cable. Since I had to take the CD changer off the bracket I decided to put the PSE pump in a bag at the same time. Here are the steps as best I can remember (anyone else who sees that I have missed something, feel free to make a correction):

- remove the spare tire or storage box (SLK32)

- remove the tool kit and jack/lug wrench with their foam holder

- remove the CD changer and bracket (disconnect power and fiber optic cable). You might be able to leave the changer attached but I didn't have enough room to pull out the PSE with the changer still there, it was just sorta in the way.

- The PSE is located on the floor of the trunk just to the right of the jack/lug wrench. Mine is wrapped in an insulating blanket with a soft foam cover. There are slots and openings in the covering where the pneumatic and electrical lines run in and out. The extra length of the wire/pneumatic lines leaves something to be desired, but I was able to rotate and pull the pump out enough to slide it into my trash compactor bag. I just folded the top of the plastic bag around where the lines run in. I hope it will be enough to wick any water away from running straight into the pump. I guess it will be either that or I will ensure that all the water stays in the bag with pump to destroy it even faster [:D]. If water leaks into the trunk from somwhere else and does not drain out the hole below the spare for some reason, the pump should be protected from sitting in water due to the bag. I read in some other thread that the insulating blanket had soaked up a lot of water when they had a leak.

Hope that helps for anyone wanting to try this.

Note: PSE in this case refers to the Pneumatic System Electronics or something like that as opposed to the Portable Support Electronics (PSE) which is located on the opposite side of the trunk if you have a cell phone system installed. Gotta love engineers that would use the same acronym for two totally different parts on the same car. Would it have been that hard to change it to PES (Pneumatic Electronics System)? In both cases I bet they were just translating from German so it would have been easy to rename one of them in English.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was going to tkae pics but my son has the car and will get a new PSE next week (he lives about 100miles from me)
From taking the PSE out of the foam cover I could see that water was dripping out of it. I removed all wiring then removed the grey top (3 yellow hoses) again its levering it up,and then removed the pump out of the car. I removed the plastic base from the bottom (small screwdriver its plastic lugs into slots) then unscrew 3 small screws and the black top comes off. Then you can see the damage. I tried to clean it (the idea was to clean and dry it then try it again), but the burning was the same as in the pics (Bad pse pics thread).

The maker of the PSE is HELLA someone asked that question before.

I have always had a problem with the drain behind the rear wheels under the car, always had the push something up to let any water run free, this was full of water and could be why water got in. My son has been driving the car and I forgot to tell him to check this area.

gary
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Heres some pics of the PSE. Word of advice because of the many part nos on this part it is risky to buy a used one and to expect it to work due to coding etc.
 

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I hope nobody has a PSE pump mounted as the picture shows because the illustration shows it bottom side up to better show the layout of the external connections. The correct orientation is of course with the hoses and cable connectors pointing down to allow water to drain away from the pump. Seeing the picture prompted me to disassemble my 04 SLK to see if the pump was correctly mounted, which it was.

I removed the foam sound insulation from around the pump case to check for trapped water and noticed some moisture around the case as I removed the foam. The internal design of the case finally shows some improvement over the first generation pumps I used to repair many years ago in that this PSE pump generally seems to have been designed to manage water condensation and build up within the case itself. Since you cannot keep water out of it the best you can do is to make the design tolerate it. On the inside of the pump housing the circuit board was placed at the highest physical location and all of the components subject to condensation were mounted well away from most of the electronics with the internal valves and pneumatic limit switches mounted so condensation would drip in a predictable path.

Now I have used the term condensation a few times here so I should point out that any pneumatic system must be designed to tolerate condensation because it cannot be avoided. Air pumps move air, and air can be loaded with moisture. To cause moisture to precipitate out of the air only requires a drop in temperature or pressure, and both of these conditions occur within the PSE pump every time it is cycled.

Now the path for water drainage within the pump ends at its lowest internal location, this being the bottom of the motor housing in the pump case. Hella has thoughtfully provided three drainage holes in the case here allowing any water build up within the case to drain away before it could cause a problem.

I am sure this pump would darn near last forever if it was allowed to run under the conditions it was designed to but it is here that the problem occurs. The sound insulation foam fits so tightly around the PSE case that the three drain holes are completely sealed off and any water that gets into or builds up within the case stays there.

I took my trusty soldering iron and melted a large hole in the foam container between the drain holes and the bottom to allow proper drainage before reassembling the housing. I will check it again in a few months, but I am not expecting to find a water build up there again.
 

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That is pretty much what happened to mine (01 230 sport), except it was the rubber seals around the rim of the trunk that were allowing water in. Alarm started going off on its own. You couldn't think of a dumber way to build electronics into a car. Out of warranty; cost me $1300 to fix but MB picked up cost of the part, $300, as goodwill (like they didn't know this was an issue). Car had 80k miles on it and after one too many visits to the dealer over four years, mostly for electrical or other quality issues, this was the last straw and I sold the baby.
 

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n5160u - 4/20/2005 6:01 AM

I hope nobody has a PSE pump mounted as the picture shows because the illustration shows it bottom side up to better show the layout of the external connections. The correct orientation is of course with the hoses and cable connectors pointing down to allow water to drain away from the pump. Seeing the picture prompted me to disassemble my 04 SLK to see if the pump was correctly mounted, which it was.
I guess that may be true for the 2004 (maybe they finally did this as a design change to stop the problem), but my 2002 is mounted the same way as the photo above. I just checked it and there is no way to mount it with the pneumatic lines on the bottom and the PCB on the top. The lines are way too short to turn it over. There are also no drain holes at all in the bottom of the insulating blanket. The pump and blanket were completely dry, no moisture at all. Since I tore it all apart again to see if it could be turned over, I will insert the pictures showing how I did it. Remember I have a 32 so others will be removing the spare tire instead of the storage bin. The last photo is the pump & insulation in a plastic bag before I put it all back together. A few hints...I thought I had to remove the CD changer but I didn't this time, it would give you a little more room but is not required. Also, the pump in its insulation and foam cover is jammed in there fairly tightly, it worked best for me to rotate the bottom out towards the middle of the trunk and then pull it out as much as you can (which isn't very far) with the connections still in place. Again I hope this helps anyone who was planning on bagging the PSE pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My pump is also fitted as picture tubes and cables would not allow the pse to be turned upside down.

Image came from http://mercedesforum.com/m_8599/tm.htm its on the slk thread page 3, this might take you there.

I found a used one for £70 from some comments I am glad I did not buy it there are so many variants all are coded.

gary
 

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Discussion Starter #16
With all the pse problems I thought I would have a look at the pump on my R171 350 but its not as far as I can see in the trunk I,m hoping that if I can,t find it neither will the water. My R170 is a late 1998 so turning the pump over may have come at a later date, putting it in the glove locker would have a better idea.

gary
 

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I recently changed the pump on my wife's SLK 230 (1999), it was corroded. We now find the alarm / central locking (from the key) & the window drop (on door opening) doesn't work anymore, all these things started happening which is when I noticed the pump problem. Do I need to get the new pump coded to the car, could the pump fault take out the alarm also? I'm completely cofused now, I thought the new pump would rectify all the problems...
 

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I have just had the alarm problem in my 2001 SLK320 caused by the central locking pump. Thanks to this forum, the cause of the problem was quickly identified. Two additional comments:

1. I bought a new pump at my dealer, he informed me that the part number had changed and the price was reduced by $200 ( from $550 to $350, $320 with a MBCCA discount).

2. He also suggested putting a lot of Dielectric Grease in the electric connections to prevent the corrosion from occuring again. He cautioned that moisture with follow the wires into the connectors and that using a plastic bag could actually make it worse unless that is prevented.

Thanks again for your comments and postings.
 

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There was a redesign for 2004. The pump was turned upside down so the electronics board is on the top like was mentioned. If someone with a 2004 could post pictures, that would be great.
 

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Central Locking Pump

I have a slk230 year 2000. When I bought it, someone (previous owner or dealership) previously actually wrapped the PSE in a plastic bag which didn't help with the water still getting in. It actually did more damage and corroded the PSE. I found that out when I brought it to Mercedes dealership due to my alarm kept going off. Is this a common issue with most of the slks? Are there other solutions than to wrap it with a plastic bag? Is there a way to prevent the water from getting to it? Water is still leaking into it. Is there anyone out there that actually had this problem and found a solution to it and not a work around to the problem? That would really help. =)
 
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