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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last weekend i did a service for the E220, changed the engine oil and filter, spark plugs and brake pads... After the service i have cut open the filter to inspect it for any metal shavings and i have found 2 parts, one of them looks like an aluminium wire about 1 cm length but it is hard and stiff so it's robably not aluminium, the other metal shavings was much smaller...

In addition i have also found lots of carbon diposits or carbon buildup inside the oil filter, almost in all its diameter. In my opinion, this amount of carbon diposits is not normal... Here's a couple of shots I took for the oil filter.

Little bit of information about my W124:
It's an E220 (M111 engine which is similar to the M104), original engine with 300,000km which is about 186K miles, engine have been serviced every 10,000km which is 6k miles, had used the Motul 8100 10W40 oil, it does meet MB approval 229.1, I feel that the engine does run on rich mixture.

What would cause this excessive amount of carbon diposits or buildup in the oil filter... Is there anyway I can clean the inside of the engine without taking the engine head out or the oil pan ?



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The wire looks like a piece of a helicoil used to secure a bolt in a stripped out thread. Maybe a valve cover?


Those heavy deposits appear to be caked up oil deposits that sloughed off the inside of the block, valve cover, etc. The older paraffin(wax) oils would cake up like that quite often. If you have excessive blowby, it can possibly be burned oil ash. I would guess it's about the quality of the oil and the heat separating the components of the oil. Back in the old days, people would run a quart or two of kerosene in the oil for a few minutes just before an oil change to remove these deposits. I think they have other products to do that nowadays.

Is the texture of the deposits sandy, gritty. fibrous(paper?)?

If the fuel mixture is rich, could you be getting fuel in the oil? It really looks more like burned oil, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Regarding the wire, yeah could be from a helicoil, I haven't taken the valve cover by myself but the had a head gasket change before 50,000km...

The texture is like a fine sand, it's brittle too...

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Another guess on my part. Burned oil deposits from the piston rings ground into sandy deposits by the oil pump.

Try changing the oil more often, see if you get fewer deposits.That's some dirty oil, one of the worst I've ever seen.Reminds me of diesel oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will be replacing the engine oil and oil filter in another 5000km and checking them both.

My question is : is there any product that can help desolve all the dirt in the engine so in the next service there's minimal dirt ?

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Don't obsess over clean internals. Changing the oil frequently is the best care you can provide; cleaning the internals doesn't achieve anything other than a false sense of peace. The filter is supposed to capture debris and it is obviously doing its job well. If you feel the engine is running rich, then have the mixture tweaked to adjust for this. If you want to feel as if any loose carbon particles are washed out, then as Logical Position suggested, use Kerosene to loosen and rinse out the particles prior to or during an oil change. If it were me, and I was "bent" on cleaning out any possible particles, I would buy a second oil filter 3 qts of cheap oil, and enough Kero to make up the rest of a full crank case. With this mixture in the engine, let the engine run until its hot and then idle it for maybe 10 minutes before dumping the oil and changing the filter again.

As for the metal, my first thought was that it was a wire bristle off a cup-type bristle brush used with a drill to scrape off gaskets and junk. When you mentioned the head had been serviced at 50k km, my confidence in the probability that its a brush bristle increased.
 

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Any loss in power & performance? If so, could be related to piston rings.

Suggest you do a compression check, and at the next oil change interval, do a engine flush with transmission fluid. Drain the old oil, leave the old oil filter, refill with Dexron ATF. Idle, but do not rev, the engine for up to 30 minutes. Then perform a standard oil + filter change service.
 

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Use Steve's method of putting ATF (only) into your sump and run for 30 minutes at IDLE...no revving. Drain, change filter and use a quality oil at regular intervals. No substitute for 'drain hot and drain often'.

Lol....beat me to it!

Kevin
 

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My 2 cents worth. Don't do anything drastic. Use Diesel oil (Chevron Delo 15W40 or similar) for the next two oil changes. That will clean your engine slowly but surely.

Don't be surprised if after you do this (or the flash cleaning method) your oil consumption (burning) will actually increase (until you address the wear items (valve guides and piston rings)

- Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't obsess over clean internals. Changing the oil frequently is the best care you can provide; cleaning the internals doesn't achieve anything other than a false sense of peace. The filter is supposed to capture debris and it is obviously doing its job well. If you feel the engine is running rich, then have the mixture tweaked to adjust for this. If you want to feel as if any loose carbon particles are washed out, then as Logical Position suggested, use Kerosene to loosen and rinse out the particles prior to or during an oil change. If it were me, and I was "bent" on cleaning out any possible particles, I would buy a second oil filter 3 qts of cheap oil, and enough Kero to make up the rest of a full crank case. With this mixture in the engine, let the engine run until its hot and then idle it for maybe 10 minutes before dumping the oil and changing the filter again.

As for the metal, my first thought was that it was a wire bristle off a cup-type bristle brush used with a drill to scrape off gaskets and junk. When you mentioned the head had been serviced at 50k km, my confidence in the probability that its a brush bristle increased.
I have been servicing my car for the last 5 years by myself. Oil and filter change every 10,000km's... Last time i have cut open the oil filter, i hadn't seen this much of carbon buildup on the oil filter. But did see some metal shavings. This time I only saw one metal shaving but there's plenty of carbon buildup.

Thanks for the tip, I am a hesitating between the kerosene diesel or Liqui Moly engine flush..

Regarding the A/F mixture, mine is a M111 engine which is similar to the M104 engine system.. so the A/F mixture cannot be adjusted manually. It's automatically adjusted by the ECU and rest of the sensors...



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Discussion Starter #11
Any loss in power & performance? If so, could be related to piston rings.

Suggest you do a compression check, and at the next oil change interval, do a engine flush with transmission fluid. Drain the old oil, leave the old oil filter, refill with Dexron ATF. Idle, but do not rev, the engine for up to 30 minutes. Then perform a standard oil + filter change service.
The engine is weak in power and performance... but that was since i bought the car (6 years ago)... There's some vacuum hoses that aren't connected right because the blower motor speed changes when I push the accelerator... I haven't found whats wrong there...

I will be doing a compression test soon and will see what pressures i get, If i remember right, each cylinder should read about 150psi, am i right ?

I will be flushing the engine in the next oil change too, nad i have geard about the ATF ebgine flush trick.

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Discussion Starter #12
My 2 cents worth. Don't do anything drastic. Use Diesel oil (Chevron Delo 15W40 or similar) for the next two oil changes. That will clean your engine slowly but surely.

Don't be surprised if after you do this (or the flash cleaning method) your oil consumption (burning) will actually increase (until you address the wear items (valve guides and piston rings)

- Cheers!
How does the Chevron Delo 15W40 clean the engine meanwhile other oils won't do it ?
In this last oil change I have used Liqui Moly 10W40 Super leichtlauf...

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How does the Chevron Delo 15W40 clean the engine meanwhile other oils won't do it ?
In this last oil change I have used Liqui Moly 10W40 Super leichtlauf...

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I'm told diesel motor oils have more detergents and cleaning additives in them (to deal with inherently dirtier working conditions. Thus they tend to clean rings/piston walls/valve guides/valve stems , etc ,etc over time.

But I have a hunch when one cleans those parts one is also increasing the gaps between those components. Just my theory as I have limited experience with this.

I have no idea what Ligui Molly 10W40 has in it, though I have used their engine flush once. The engine flush seems to clean the engine. Not sure if that is a good thing or a bad thing.

- Cheers!
 

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I would step up the frequency of your oil changes to 3,500 miles for at least the next three and use a highly detergent oil (with ZDDP) to keep cleaning & lubing the internals.

Pull you plugs and look carefully at the burn...or post pics.

Kevin
 

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Based on what you are describing, it sounds like your engine is worn and tired.

If it were me, I'd pull the plugs and stick a borescope down the plug holes. If the cylinder walls no longer show the cross hatch honing marks or there are obvious signs of wear such as wall scouring I'd stop right there and start looking for a replacement engine.
 

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One more thing re. "running rich". When was the last time you replaced MAF sensor and the O2 sensor? These are the primary inputs for regulating the fuel mix.

If your car has a high HC (hydrocarbons) output, then suspect MAF first and foremost.

Replace both with new Bosch components only. Aftermarket brands do not work/last. Amazon has the best prices.
 

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I've seen worse, but I really don't think the problem lies in the cylinder head.

Your issues are deeper down in the bowels of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Steve, You are correct, i have changed the head when I did the head gasket because the head was corroded and the water passages was block because PO have used tap water instead of antifreeze.

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