[Mantist]

Hi, I need help getting the car running again..

Battery is good (12.95volts). Have tried jumping with another vehicle as well as isolating my battery and starting from another vehicle's battery. Same symptom - headlights ok. Interior lights are ok. But starter just make 1/2 second clicks. What could it be?

I did tap the window switches afew times to leave a small gap several hours before. Could that contribute to this?

 

[Subby_]

sounds like the car wont engage the starter b/c it thinks its in gear?

try putting car in N and then back to P? and or placing foot on brake and start it?

 

[Mantist]

Tried that too. Did not work. Could this relate to the PSE? Do I have a failed starter?

 

[Subby_]

have you also tried wiggling the steering wheel as you crank it too?

doesnt sound like starter is shot, sounds like some switch or something is not permitting it to start.

do you have a spare key to use?

also try wiggling the key as you turn to crank

 

[Killahkal88]

If it is clicking, but not cranking I believe it's the starter. There's only so many things it could be - Fuel delivery (which is not the case here), starting system, ignition.

 

[Check Codes]

I'd take a look at the K-40 relay and the engine ground strap. Be sure the cable ends on the battery are tight and free of any corrosion (undo them to be sure).

Good luck.

 

[Mantist]

It now won't shift out of Park.

What else can I try before towing it to the dealer?

 

[Mantist]

Hi Guys,

I measured the voltage level of the battery while trying to start the engine. The level went from 12.45 to 6.5x volts. Does it mean the battery is dead?

When jumped the starter just made hammering sounds. It seemed like it fired but not turning. I think the starter is bad. How involved is replacing a starter on an slk? Is there a diy somewhere? Any advice? Thanks.

 

[Mantist]

have you also tried wiggling the steering wheel as you crank it too?

doesnt sound like starter is shot, sounds like some switch or something is not permitting it to start.

do you have a spare key to use?

also try wiggling the key as you turn to crank

Tried all three suggestions, did not crank...

 

[Mantist]

If it is clicking, but not cranking I believe it's the starter. There's only so many things it could be - Fuel delivery (which is not the case here), starting system, ignition.

It is more like a starting system problem to me..

 

[Subby_]

not sure what the voltage drop should be when cranking but attached is how to remove the starter from WIS

 

[Mantist]

I'd take a look at the K-40 relay and the engine ground strap. Be sure the cable ends on the battery are tight and free of any corrosion (undo them to be sure).

Good luck.

K-40 is more like a pre-facelift issue. I checked and all solder joints are good. No signs of burn, I reflowed some anyways..

 

[Check Codes]

Your battery is toast if the voltage is dropping that much. IIRC 9.6 is the rule of thumb.

Have it cycle-load tested to be sure, but that is most assuredly not normal.

 

[Mantist]

not sure what the voltage drop should be when cranking but attached is how to remove the starter from WIS

Tried to remove the starter. It is very difficult to get to from the bottom without the car being raised. What are circuits 30 and circuit 50? Where is the other end of those wires on the starter?

 

[Kobus]

Battery is toast. The hammering sound is made when the voltage is too low. I always thought the electronics will not allow the starter to turn if the battery voltage is too low, but it's not true on the SLK.
I had exactly the same symptoms after forgetting the dome light on overnight 2 weeks ago. I did not see that I left the dome light on and thought that the starter was stuck. After manually turning the engine a few inches to 'unstuck' the starter - without any joy, I finally measured the battery voltage. It was down to 11.3 volts. I hooked up jumper leads to another car, charging the battery that way for a few minutes and the started my car without any problems. After that I ran the engine for about 10 - 15 minutes and all was well again. It basically took longer for the dome light to cool off than the battery to charge!
In any case, it is quicker and cheaper to properly test the battery or try to jumpstart the car than to remove the starter.

 

[Mantist]

Tried jump start the car with different vehicles including a tow truck without success. Then with two older models of Accords in parallel, it started right up.

Replaced the battery and all is well. Thanks guys. :thumbsup:

 

[bmaxey]

Mantist:

Thanks for the thread. I know you were asking for help because you were needing advice, and you got the advice, and solved your problem, and we who read it learned something that will come in handy if we ever face the same situation in our SLK. My 99 SLK's battery went out 7 years ago in a parking lot without warning and had to be replaced, but that was 7 years ago and I'm wondering how much life is left and when its going to strand me again. My dead battery did not act as you described, but it is good to know that it might, next time. So, thanks, and glad you're rolling again!

 

[DecoThom]

Mantist:

Thanks for the thread. I know you were asking for help because you were needing advice, and you got the advice, and solved your problem, and we who read it learned something that will come in handy if we ever face the same situation in our SLK. My 99 SLK's battery went out 7 years ago in a parking lot without warning and had to be replaced, but that was 7 years ago and I'm wondering how much life is left and when its going to strand me again. My dead battery did not act as you described, but it is good to know that it might, next time. So, thanks, and glad you're rolling again!

Ditto… thanks to Mantist for sharing your results. We often give advice, and never get the results/solutions back.

Anyhow, you can get your battery checked for free at most major auto parts stores like Advanced Auto Parts.

 

[Mantist]

Ditto… thanks to Mantist for sharing your results. We often give advice, and never get the results/solutions back.

Anyhow, you can get your battery checked for free at most major auto parts stores like Advanced Auto Parts.

Mantist:

Thanks for the thread. I know you were asking for help because you were needing advice, and you got the advice, and solved your problem, and we who read it learned something that will come in handy if we ever face the same situation in our SLK. My 99 SLK's battery went out 7 years ago in a parking lot without warning and had to be replaced, but that was 7 years ago and I'm wondering how much life is left and when its going to strand me again. My dead battery did not act as you described, but it is good to know that it might, next time. So, thanks, and glad you're rolling again!

What bothered me was that no one vehicle can jump start the SLK, not tow truck, not mini van, not suv, not Camry. Even with the slk battery out of the loop did not help. But two older Accords in parallel did it (with failed slk battery).

So according to the fella at Autozone these SLK's required alot to crank over plus alot of electronics needed power during start. I am not sure I agree totally. But with a new Mercedes battery it worked. Mercedes has changed the style of their battery to black top instead of white.

And now I can write a DIY for starter removal. :thumbsup:

 

[Kobus]

What bothered me was that no one vehicle can jump start the SLK, not tow truck, not mini van, not suv, not Camry. Even with the slk battery out of the loop did not help. But two older Accords in parallel did it (with failed slk battery).

So according to the fella at Autozone these SLK's required alot to crank over plus alot of electronics needed power during start. I am not sure I agree totally. But with a new Mercedes battery it worked. Mercedes has changed the style of their battery to black top instead of white.

And now I can write a DIY for starter removal. :thumbsup:

I can think of several reasons. (1) All the attempts to start recharged the SLK battery somewhat. (2) The old battery had a problem which caused it to act like a power drain, so much that it was just a bottomless pit. (3) Jumper cables of insufficient gauge to carry the draw.
I don't think the SLK really requires a lot of amps. The battery rating is not that high.