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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

My 190E is a 2L, made in 1993.

I accidentally switched it off in Park mode, it will not start when the gear selector is in Park or Neutral. The dashboard lights up but the engine will not turn.

There is a story to how I arrived at this situation, please bear with me:

The rear brake piston(drivers side) jammed whilst driving. I pulled off and saw the disc was glowing. Whilst reversing onto the tow truck, the back wheels were jamming.

With the car jacked up, I removed the wheels, started the car and put it into reverse to check if the discs was still spinning and then shifted to drive. I did this procedure to check whether the wheel bearings failed due to the heated disc from earlier on.

It was at this point that I switched the car off.


I phoned the local dealership and spoke to a mechanic who is familiar with older models Mercedes. He told me it was probably two issues :

The starter cut off/protection switch that is on the gearbox may be faulty or
There is no power going to the starter.

Please can you advise me where I should start to solve this problem.

Many thanks for your help,

Premo Sewnunan
Durban
South Africa
 

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Check that your battery is fully charged. If you can trace the ignition wire (black on my left hand Drive 1990 2.6) that goes to the starter from the ignition switch through the firewall you will find that it leads to a connector with a sort of knurled end attached to the firewall by a black plastic zip lock strap. The two ends of the connector is held together with a little prong on one side. Pull the prong back with a small screw driver and the connector will come apart. Now you will be able to run a jumper wire from the positive terminal of your battery to the end of the wire (female end) that goes down to the starter. This bypasses both the ignition and the neutral safety switch on the transmission. If the engine turns over it will not be the starter that is the issue. If you then turn on the ignition while using the jumper wire and the car starts it is likely the trans switch. I wish I could post you a picture of the wire connector. I recently had a similar problem which turned out to be a bad alternator voltage regulator. I hope that this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Laura,

Many thanks for your comments!

Problem solved. The issue was a missing bush and circlip on the link rod that runs from the gearbox to the gear stick. The transmission was stuck in 2nd gear instead of Neutral.

Once we replaced these items, it started on the turn.

Thanks,
Premo
 

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Promo, Great! My late husband spent several years in South Africa as a child in Natal Province (Pietermaritzburg, Escort).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, Estcourt is about an 2 hours from me.

Would you or anyone on this forum know how to strip the fuel level sender body?

I removed it and noted that the top section is angled and there is no nut at the bottom end to loosen the unit.


Thanks,
Premo
 

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If it is the same as a 2.6 fuel tank:

There is a small keyed nut at the bottom. You need a flat head screw driver that is notched in the center.

After you remove that, do not man handle the body as it is fragile.

I believe you may need to bend the tabs on top to remove the shell. Again be gentle.

I assume you are trying to fix a dead or jumpy gauge. Also be careful with the thin 2 wires in there when you are wiping them with solvent.

When you put it back together most likely the cap will start leaking fuel when tank is full. You will need to purchase new O-rings and really clean the surfaces. I had to lightly sand mine to make it smooth again.

Good luck with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your comments.

There isn't a keyed nut at the bottom. This really stumped me. This is quite different to the ones that I seen on Youtube.

The electrical portion is angled away from the main tube.

Any ideas on how I can remove the tube?

Thanks,
Premo
 

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Thanks for your comments.

There isn't a keyed nut at the bottom. This really stumped me. This is quite different to the ones that I seen on Youtube.

The electrical portion is angled away from the main tube.

Any ideas on how I can remove the tube?

Thanks,
Premo
Best advice I can extend to you is to post a picture of the bottom, since it has to slide down in that direction.

- Cheers!
 

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Looks like the same as mine. Clean out the bottom center area, and take a closer up picture, looks like there is some crud in there.

It should have a circular small brass nut that is slotted/keyed.

Long story short, that black piece has to come out and it can not with that nut (attached to a rod in the sender)

- Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like the same as mine. Clean out the bottom center area, and take a closer up picture, looks like there is some crud in there.

It should have a circular small brass nut that is slotted/keyed.

Long story short, that black piece has to come out and it can not with that nut (attached to a rod in the sender)

- Cheers!

Hello,

Great and not so great news, :|

The crud was cleaned and we saw the brass nut, see attached pictures. Once stripped, we found that the float was jammed. It was cleaned we checked that it slid freely by tilting the unit in a vertical manner. I do have a video of the test procedure.

The frustrating part is that the problem is still there, :frown

Please advise on the procedure to test the fuel gauge and wiring.

Best wishes,
Premo
 

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Good to hear. I do not recall you stated what the problem was other than you wanted to open it.

If it is super jumpy you need to clean those two thin wires with carborator cleaner, etc. very very carefully and gently. Do not want to snap those wires.

If it is not working at all, you need to start measuring things with a multimeter. It may take some diagnostic work.

- Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good to hear. I do not recall you stated what the problem was other than you wanted to open it.

If it is super jumpy you need to clean those two thin wires with carborator cleaner, etc. very very carefully and gently. Do not want to snap those wires.

If it is not working at all, you need to start measuring things with a multimeter. It may take some diagnostic work.

- Cheers!
I initially thought the fuel sender was the culprit, hence my inquiry to find out how to strip it.

Unbeknown to me, my mechanic also replaced the thin wires with copper ones. :eek. I only found out this morning

The fuel gauge now sits at the FULL mark.:|

I feel the gauge should read about 3/4 . A visual check of the actual level in the tank shows that there is about a 15-18 centimetre air gap between the level of the fuel and the top of the tank. Am I correct in my assumption?

Thanks,
Premo
 

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I initially thought the fuel sender was the culprit, hence my inquiry to find out how to strip it.

Unbeknown to me, my mechanic also replaced the thin wires with copper ones. :eek. I only found out this morning

The fuel gauge now sits at the FULL mark.:|

I feel the gauge should read about 3/4 . A visual check of the actual level in the tank shows that there is about a 15-18 centimetre air gap between the level of the fuel and the top of the tank. Am I correct in my assumption?

Thanks,
Premo
Not sure what your mechanic was thinking. The wires need to be the proper "resistive" wires. If they are near zero resistance copper, I would suspect your tank will always read full no matter what the amount of fuel in the tank.

Probably need to get a new one from a junkyard assuming you do not want to spend money on a new expensive one.

- Cheers!
 
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