Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 57 Posts

·
Registered
1984 380SL
Joined
·
509 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking of getting some ramps so I can change the oil in my 107. I doubt I will do a lot of the more involved work, but have and will continue to do the bolt on type work like monovalve and fan clutch replacement.

My garage is a bit tight so I will likely do most of my work on the asphalt driveway. In the summer, this makes a bottle lift a bit less desirable given the softer base. Cost is also a factor as I would need a set of jack stands as well. This made me think about ramps

I like he idea but am concerned I’ll drive right off the ramp. When I switch from drive to park and am on an incline, the car might roll 8 inches or so. While I would use chocks on the rear wheels, the give there also makes me a little uncomfortable.

Do folks use ramps, or should I use a jack set on a larger piece of 2x10 or so and use jack stands?
 

·
Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
·
10,073 Posts
Depending on what I am doing, I do use my ramps. Plus two rubber chocks on rear wheels. I am searching for an oil leak on my E320, so it is up on ramps right now.

The ones I have are solid rubber (made from recycled tires) and are heavy. I use them on a level floor (my garage)

Otherwise, I use a heavy duty low profile floor jack and jack stands plus wheel chocks. It lifts car quickly and once car is on stands, jack can be removed. Provides access to brakes wheels which ramps do not. Needs to be low profile so it can be operated when slid well under car.

I suppose you could use the car jack or a small bottle jack, but that would be a pain!

One other thing - ramps not so good for rear of car, unless you are good at backing up :)
 

·
Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
·
6,695 Posts
...
I like he idea but am concerned I’ll drive right off the ramp. When I switch from drive to park and am on an incline, the car might roll 8 inches or so. While I would use chocks on the rear wheels, the give there also makes me a little uncomfortable.

Do folks use ramps, or should I use a jack set on a larger piece of 2x10 or so and use jack stands?
I use Ramps a lot.
I do recall the first time I drove up on them - it was uneasy. After doing it a few times you get a feel for when the wheels reach the flat part.

Also, make sure you line up the ramps so you don't drive off the side of them.

Ramps are nice for working under the car.
 

·
Registered
75, 280Sl /5speed
Joined
·
1,297 Posts
Personally this is the only setup I trust if I'm planning to be under the car. Using both units
and a set under each wheel gives me 26" of clearance. Or you can do one wheel at a time,
Think I have $25 invested in 2x4's. Same cribbing my Son uses on there firetrucks.
The pegs keep the units aligned. Should add, they make a nice, compact, 4' stack in a corner.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1983 380SL (us), Former owner: 1965 190Dc
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
The town I live in has coated the street out front of the house with a rubberized coating. My ramps slide out from under my front wheels while trying to drive the Red Fox up onto them. I'm thinking about welding pieces of sharpened 1/4 steel rods to the lower end of the ramps to grip the coated pavement.
 

·
Registered
1988 560SL (California Model)
Joined
·
5,087 Posts
The town I live in has coated the street out front of the house with a rubberized coating. My ramps slide out from under my front wheels while trying to drive the Red Fox up onto them. I'm thinking about welding pieces of sharpened 1/4 steel rods to the lower end of the ramps to grip the coated pavement.
Mine used to slip on the garage floor. Mounted some masonite (I think) to the bottom...no more slip.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
·
10,073 Posts
I recall others posting about adding a thinner base to the ramps. I guess spreading the weight of the car stops them from slipping?

Many of those plastic and metal ramps do seem light and probably need some help to stop them slipping. A piece of rubber backed matting might work. My solid rubber ones are heavy, but at least they don't slip much.

I have found it best to drive car into garage (floor swept of dust). Then take ramps and push them against the front wheels so both are equal. Then put car in lower gear and slowly drive up ramp. When front of car stops moving upwards, I stop, get out and have a look to see how much further I can go. Usually about 4in. With door open, I watch floor and judge when I have 4in. Then get out and chock the rear wheels.

Done this about a dozen time in past 2 weeks so fresh in my mind! (Been looking for oil leak on E-Class)
 

·
Registered
1972 220 D, 1974 450SL, 1995 E300D 2002 S430, 1976 300D, 1986 SDL, 1982 SD
Joined
·
2,708 Posts
The $40 rhino ramps are good enough for me. They get the cars up high enough for my fat gut to slide under on a roller. Even on an incline driveway. Rear lifting is harder, as the tires can spin and not have enough gription to climb, then melting the plastic a little. Metal ramps would probably not melt.
 

·
Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
·
6,695 Posts
I can use my ramps with my 380SL front and rear - no problems.
But, the front end of my 560SL is so low that I can't slide the ramps under. No problem getting the rear end of my 560SL up on ramps though.

I guess I need a longer more gradual inclined ramp for the front of my 560SL.
 

·
Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
·
10,073 Posts
this also seems like good idea Lift Stand Inc | Made in the USA
Look OK, but like the wooden supports, only work for under car work that is not wheel related. Probably more stable if all 4 wheels need to be raised. How often do we need to do that? If we want to work on wheels, we need jackstands or equilavent anyway.

I find the ramps a good quick way of gaining access to underside of car. And a good floorjack plus jack stands the way to work on wheels. I usually jack from diff for rear or from crossbeam on front, so a one time lift, then slip in jack stands. (other end wheels chocked!)

What I need is a proper lift, but that's not going to happen :(
 

·
Premium Member
2015 ML250 Bluetec and 1987 560SL
Joined
·
3,584 Posts
this also seems like good idea Lift Stand Inc | Made in the USA
Look OK, but like the wooden supports, only work for under car work that is not wheel related.
I can see using these for wheel related work. Use the lift stands to get the car in the air, then put cribs in place and lower the car on to them, then pull the lift stands. Big advantage of these over cribs is that it gives you a lot more lifting room from the same jack compared to lifting at the crossmember or differential.
 

·
Registered
1999 E320, 2003 E320 Wagon, 2005 C230K SS, 2010 Accord LX w Eibach & Koni FSD's
Joined
·
2,473 Posts
Has anyone lifted a car at a jack point till both wheels on the same side of the car came off the ground?

Guess this shows how ridgid some of these chassis are, but is this harmful to the chassis or suspension on the opposite side? Just wondering as I did it inadvertently:eek
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
·
6,695 Posts
Has anyone lifted a car at a jack point till both wheels on the same side of the car came off the ground?

Guess this shows how ridgid some of these chassis are, but is this harmful to the chassis or suspension on the opposite side? Just wondering as I did it inadvertently:eek
I have done my SL's like that ... but not that extreme.
 

·
Premium Member
1983 380 SL
Joined
·
2,443 Posts
What I need is a proper lift, but that's not going to happen :(
It can happen even if you only have a 7 1/2' or 8' ceiling in your garage. See all the room between the top of the windshield and the lights attached to the rafters? That's how high you can lift your R107 and that's how much room you'll have to roll around freely under it when fully lifted. It'll drain your wallet to the tune of $1900 US but what's your back or your neck worth? It's a professional grade lift capable of safely lifting 6,000 lbs.. I spent years on my back on various crawlers before I found this lift. What a difference, especially if you're like me and can't see anything closer then the length of your arm. Oil changes, all but impossible to do without first spilling a half quart or oil down your arm are a thing of the past. Brake work is now a breeze. Mufflers and exhaust pipes,well... they're still a PITA. Everything you need to get under the car to fix becomes many times easier. Skip meals if that's what it takes but everyone who maintains their own R107 should have a lift. Explain to SWMBO that's it's male makeup.

MercMy107.jpg
 

·
Registered
1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
Joined
·
6,695 Posts
I like that Max Jack.
Looks like it would tip over.
Does it bolt to the floor?
 

·
Registered
2006 CLK 350 Convertible
Joined
·
624 Posts
Anything that supports the vehicle by the wheels is good for most under vehicle maintenance and service except wheel/tire, brake, and most suspension service. I personally prefer a floor jack and jack stands.
 

·
Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
Joined
·
29,196 Posts
I'm still dreaming of a shop.
And in that shop will be a 2 post lift.


Dannmar D-10/ACX Two Post Asymmetric Wide


In the mean time....I'll just keep using a floor jack and axle stands.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 57 Posts
Top