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W201 Moderator
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Not sure on the Beru dist and rotor.....we need more feedback from actual long-term use. I seem to remember someone in here blasting them as junk within the last 12 months or so.

Kevin
Very sorry to hear that Kevin. The last Bosch cap I purchased from the local auto part store just did not look good and the center HV pin popped out after/during my cylinder head job. It was only 3000 miles young. So I was looking for a better alternative (other than the dealer bosch). The Beru looks of higher quality but looks are not everything.

I'll give feedback but I'm not even sure how long before I put it in.
Probably after my timing chain replacement, which is coming up.
 

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Why not simply go with brand new OE MB? No issues or doubts about those re. quality and durability.

124s are way to fussy about ignition components to mess around with, let alone pay for a tow when said bargain basement part leaves you stranded.
 

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re hotter plugs, my understanding was hotter plug ranges were for engines that inherently ran hotter so they conduct more heat away. if you use them in a 'regular' engine, they will actually run COOLER and foul faster. they are a good idea if you regularly do long high RPM autobahn runs.

now I might have that completely backwards. added bonus confusion, some brands of plugs the higher number is 'hotter', others, its 'cooler'. go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thought it was time for an update. I replaced both fuel pumps and the problem *seems* to have been cured. I'm going to pull codes again to see if the O2 sensor codes have returned, even with the new sensor. So, with a new cap, rotor and spark plugs, she seems to have regained some power. Also did a sea foam green Tx while I was doing everything else.
 

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Very sorry to hear that Kevin. The last Bosch cap I purchased from the local auto part store just did not look good and the center HV pin popped out after/during my cylinder head job. It was only 3000 miles young. So I was looking for a better alternative (other than the dealer bosch). The Beru looks of higher quality but looks are not everything.

I'll give feedback but I'm not even sure how long before I put it in.
Probably after my timing chain replacement, which is coming up.
Beru components are excellent, it's pretty much all I buy for my own cars, and you know some of the abuse they go through.
 

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w124 1988 300ce keeps wanting to die- cheap part!

saw the title of this thread and have been having the same issue. Thought Oh No!! big dollars needed to buy fuel pressure regulator, or the accumulator...or the 2 pumps...and a fuel filter...
I needs to have accelerator held down to get it to idle at start up...and konks out when put in gear. Idles really rough...stalls coming to stop at intersections, going around round a bouts....DANGEROUS!
It's my son's car.
I woke up this morning thinking, I wonder if the breather hose on the right side of IDLE CONTROL VALVE was no connected properly as it was hard to put in when I bought a new one a month ago.
Upon taking the air cleaner off and looking at that hose it was fine....
But it was the other one...the one that the cold start injector fits into!
I bought it new on ebay(idiot) from "partscontainer" in September 2018 -The add said OEM...not likeley!!
Already split past the end of the Idle control valve!!
:frown
 

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W124 Moderator
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While you're waiting on a replacement hose, wrap the cracked area with something on the order of electrical tape. Try the dealer for the hose. I wouldn't think your cost would be completely nuts..

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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While you're waiting on a replacement hose, wrap the cracked area with something on the order of electrical tape. Try the dealer for the hose. I wouldn't think your cost would be completely nuts..

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
If I'm not mistaken, that hose is NLA at merdeces. When I replaced mine during the cylinder head job I had to put in a FEBI.
The other one was available but not the IACV to CSV hose.

Hard one to replace so putting in a OEM one would have been nice. My original lasted 28 years. It was rock hard when I replaced it though...

- Cheers!
 

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saw the title of this thread and have been having the same issue. Thought Oh No!! big dollars needed to buy fuel pressure regulator, or the accumulator...or the 2 pumps...and a fuel filter...
I needs to have accelerator held down to get it to idle at start up...and konks out when put in gear. Idles really rough...stalls coming to stop at intersections, going around round a bouts....DANGEROUS!
It's my son's car.
I woke up this morning thinking, I wonder if the breather hose on the right side of IDLE CONTROL VALVE was no connected properly as it was hard to put in when I bought a new one a month ago.
Upon taking the air cleaner off and looking at that hose it was fine....
But it was the other one...the one that the cold start injector fits into!
I bought it new on ebay(idiot) from "partscontainer" in September 2018 -The add said OEM...not likeley!!
Already split past the end of the Idle control valve!!
:frown
OEM just means the original manufacturer makes the part today.....no assurance of quality or representing the original spec by MB. It's like an honor system and we all know how that works with most present-day products. What you want is OE.....but the way it's going now, a lot of those parts are being discontinued.:frown

Kevin
 
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