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· Registered
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
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593 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally went and got the car back from Mitch Carr Auto. They said the transmission is fine, and it is a seasonal behavior! Once summer comes it may return to normal. I can't understand this. But they found other problems and insisted that they were very dangerous. The first problem - front brake calipers were leaking and had corroded the brake rotors. Only a few months back I changed the front pads and I did not notice anything. Probably I did not know where to look. I did notice that the brakes were acting in a funny way. Since the mechanics were opening up everything down there, they also wanted to change the wheel bearings, as it is 2.4K miles old. Here is the cost for brake and front suspension job.

Set of Rebuilt Front Brake Calipers = $188.00
Set of Front Brake Pads = $62.00
Set of Front Rotors = $200.00
4 Brake Sensors = $20.00
1 Brake Fluid = $6.00
2 Brake Hoses = $90.00
Set of Front Wheel Bearings = $200.00
Labor (Remove and replace front brake system and bearings, top off brake fluid) = $720.00

Cost for this set of repairs = $1486.00

The brakes are functioning fine now. Except that I have to depress the brake pedal way down to stop the car. Before just touching and depressing the pedal a little will slow down the car. Not sure why. (Initially they quoted more and said that the ABS may have damages, but then found that the ABS was not damaged, otherwise total cost would have touched $3.1K).
 

· Registered
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
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593 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Next two sets of repairs

The next problem - the power steering pump was leaking. That is why the card was not staying within the lane in highways. I had noticed this leak before. They said the pump has to be replaced. Some time back P/S box broke down and was replaced with a P/S box taken from another used car in a junk yard. They said the box is fine. The third problem was the oil level sensor was broken. And finally, not a problem, my windshield wiper blade that I bought two years ago at Advance Autoparts was worn out. They insisted on replacing with original wiper blades.

1 P/S pump assembly = $295.00
1 P/S fluid = $15.00
1 qt Hudraulic suspension fluid = 20.00
Labor (Remove and replace P/S pump, top off P/S fluid and top off Hydraulic fluid) = $270.00

9 qts of Oil = $36.00
1 Oil Filter = $12.00
Oil level sensor, Oil Pan Gasket and Labor (Remove and replace oil level sensor, oil pan gasket, perform oil change with filter) = $270.00

1 set of Windshield Wiper Blade = $130.00

Cost for the above = $1048

Total cost of the repairs including taxes = $2610.44
 

· Registered
1989 560 SEL ... and way too many Lincolns
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530 Posts
This is the most painful thing i've ever read...

I'd say get a set of tools from Sears and a repair manual...
I second that notion. I have yet to tackle a MB but with lots of patience and reading and trial and error I have come to a point on my current make cars where I have saved THOUSANDS in labor costs over the past few years.

i also know when something is beyond my ability, and when that happens the actual shop costs don't hurt as much (mentally at least) because it becomes an expected 'once in a while' thing that is just part of owning a car.

Any thing you can tackle yourself, no matter how small, adds up in the end!
 

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2019 Hyundai Elantra, 2005 Chrysler Town & Country, 1999 GMC Yukon
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1,670 Posts
Make sure they used transmission fluid in the power steering pump.
 

· Registered
'87 560SEC: '86 AMG 560SEC: '87 560SEL - PAST: Heckflosse 190 & 230S
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1,478 Posts
Point of reference, I found a good indy (& MB owner himself), who lets me order & bring in my own parts. I assume your shop installed OE stuff.

The price I recently paid for front pads (Pagid brand) = $47
Price for pair of front rotors (Brembo) = $122
Sensor was .95c but I didn't know 4 were needed (fronts only?)

So parts price-markup looks pretty typical - except the wiper blade scam :p
I see they have pretty good online reviews, but the transmission story sounds like they just didn't want to deal with it - after making enuff on the other work performed. :(
 

· Registered
1981 380SL - Lorinser bodykit w/16x7 LOs - AKA "Frau Blau"(Lady Blue)
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7,562 Posts
I finally went and got the car back from Mitch Carr Auto. They said the transmission is fine, and it is a seasonal behavior! Once summer comes it may return to normal. I can't understand this. But they found other problems and insisted that they were very dangerous. The first problem - front brake calipers were leaking and had corroded the brake rotors. Only a few months back I changed the front pads and I did not notice anything. Probably I did not know where to look. I did notice that the brakes were acting in a funny way. Since the mechanics were opening up everything down there, they also wanted to change the wheel bearings, as it is 2.4K miles old. Here is the cost for brake and front suspension job.

Set of Rebuilt Front Brake Calipers = $188.00
Set of Front Brake Pads = $62.00
Set of Front Rotors = $200.00
4 Brake Sensors = $20.00
1 Brake Fluid = $6.00
2 Brake Hoses = $90.00
Set of Front Wheel Bearings = $200.00
Labor (Remove and replace front brake system and bearings, top off brake fluid) = $720.00

Cost for this set of repairs = $1486.00

The brakes are functioning fine now. Except that I have to depress the brake pedal way down to stop the car. Before just touching and depressing the pedal a little will slow down the car. Not sure why. (Initially they quoted more and said that the ABS may have damages, but then found that the ABS was not damaged, otherwise total cost would have touched $3.1K).
Not to add insult to injury, but I could do that job in about 3-4 hours. Without a lift or air tools. Average labor cost at $75/hr. $300. labor would be stretching it.
They ripped you off. Probably would have been about the same $ having a MB dealer do it. Sorry.
Take it back to them and tell them you are NOT happy with the brakes. Make them fix it so it performs the way you like it. Period.:(
 

· Registered
1983 500 SEC Lorinser 1971 280se w108
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1,963 Posts
$130 for wiper blades!!!
$720 labour for doing brakes and rotors!!
They should have drained ad renewed all the brake fluid not just topped up and not correctly bleeding is un acceptable
This post just proves the thw two extreames of old benz ownership
With a bit of diy you have a reliable, cheap to maintain wonderfull piece of engineering
with no DIY you have a money pit that is an invitation for mechanics to print money.
 

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Depends on the day!
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13,419 Posts
on your brakes, they may have bleed them by pumping the pedal..bad idea on older car... You may need a master cylinder now.

leaking PS'ing pump is why the car wonders....to that they can go f'k themselves....jeez.
 

· Registered
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
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593 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not to add insult to injury, but I could do that job in about 3-4 hours. Without a lift or air tools. Average labor cost at $75/hr. $300. labor would be stretching it.
They ripped you off. Probably would have been about the same $ having a MB dealer do it. Sorry.
Take it back to them and tell them you are NOT happy with the brakes. Make them fix it so it performs the way you like it. Period.:(
Some time back the MB dealer quoted $700 for just brake pad and rotor change. And a brake fluid flush was an additional $198.
 

· Registered
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
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593 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Point of reference, I found a good indy (& MB owner himself), who lets me order & bring in my own parts. I assume your shop installed OE stuff.

The price I recently paid for front pads (Pagid brand) = $47
Price for pair of front rotors (Brembo) = $122
Sensor was .95c but I didn't know 4 were needed (fronts only?)

So parts price-markup looks pretty typical - except the wiper blade scam :p
I see they have pretty good online reviews, but the transmission story sounds like they just didn't want to deal with it - after making enuff on the other work performed. :(
They get all their parts from the local mercedes dealer. That is why it is so expensive. If there is a manual or something, that provides guidelines to test things before replacing that would be great. Otherwise I end up changing most of the things that are not at fault. If only I can test and find what is wrong, then I can change it myself. Or just tell the mechanic to change that particular part. Then they cannot be going around trying to change everything.
Three years ago I went to a mechanic (Mike's Auto), who wanted to change all the good parts. I refused, because I had records of those things that were replaced. I never went back to him.
 

· Registered
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
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593 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
on your brakes, they may have bleed them by pumping the pedal..bad idea on older car... You may need a master cylinder now.

leaking PS'ing pump is why the car wonders....to that they can go f'k themselves....jeez.
Jonathan: How long can I drive the car like this? Or is the master cylinder already damaged? Or should I do the brake fluid flush the correct way a.s.a.p. to avoid any damage to the car?
 

· Registered
91 420 SEL
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209 Posts
Ramesh!!! My good friend!!! Is this the same car that almost got you evicted? Whatever came of that situation? It breaks my heart to see you going through all this. One suggestion may be to subscribe to Alldatadiy.com It's an automotive repair site that has material specific to all different autos, the W-126 being one of them. The information isn't as good as what you can find on the factory maintenance CDs, but it does have a funtion that gives approximate repair times and difficulty levels for most repairs. At a minimum you would be able to asertain if the labor charge was fair and if the mechanic was B S-ing you on the difficulty of the work.
Grumpy is well, and took second in a local car show. Let me know how you're doing, but more important lets discuss your car issues here at the forum BEFORE you break out the check book. At least you haven't walked away from it.....
 

· Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe - RIP
Joined
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10,033 Posts
I finally went and got the car back from Mitch Carr Auto. They said the transmission is fine, and it is a seasonal behavior! Once summer comes it may return to normal. I can't understand this. But they found other problems and insisted that they were very dangerous. The first problem - front brake calipers were leaking and had corroded the brake rotors. Only a few months back I changed the front pads and I did not notice anything. Probably I did not know where to look. I did notice that the brakes were acting in a funny way. Since the mechanics were opening up everything down there, they also wanted to change the wheel bearings, as it is 2.4K miles old. Here is the cost for brake and front suspension job.

Set of Rebuilt Front Brake Calipers = $188.00
Set of Front Brake Pads = $62.00
Set of Front Rotors = $200.00
4 Brake Sensors = $20.00
1 Brake Fluid = $6.00
2 Brake Hoses = $90.00
Set of Front Wheel Bearings = $200.00
Labor (Remove and replace front brake system and bearings, top off brake fluid) = $720.00

Cost for this set of repairs = $1486.00

The brakes are functioning fine now. Except that I have to depress the brake pedal way down to stop the car. Before just touching and depressing the pedal a little will slow down the car. Not sure why. (Initially they quoted more and said that the ABS may have damages, but then found that the ABS was not damaged, otherwise total cost would have touched $3.1K).
That's kinda ridiculous! I did a whole DIY on the brake system including a caliper rebuild. You could have done the whole thing for parts. And your parts prices are out of line too. Prolly double what they should have been.

There are only three sensors in the ABS system. One at each front wheel and one in the diff...
 

· Premium Member
2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe - RIP
Joined
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10,033 Posts
This is the most painful thing i've ever read...

I'd say get a set of tools from Sears and a repair manual...
+1 on that. PM me and I will send you the manual set so you don't get reamed again my friend.

And for that much money and the caliper rebuild, he should have done the BF flush...

And DON'T EVER go to that Mech again...
 

· Registered
Depends on the day!
Joined
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13,419 Posts
With a bad master brake cylinder you can drive until you hit something.
Ha...That's great;-)

Considering they're not terribly expensive and labour is pretty easy I'd go ahead and plan on getting it done...but @ a different shop!

Mike, when they say brake sensors, they're just talking the 4 on the front pads..ABS Sensors are Way more expensive:)

Jonathan


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