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CLS350 C219 2006
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582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

Think there were similar threads, but not quite the same.

Symptoms:
- Car is a 1993 500SEL
- car is cold,
- drive for about 5-15 mins.
- Stop, leave car for a short while
- Start
- Car idles smooth
- BUT wen trying to accelerate, car runs very rough, doesnt want to pick up
- When in N (neutral) one rev goes above 2000 or so seems ok except from intermittent drops.
- After a few minutes all runs smooth
- When running rough also smells bad, but no black or blue smoke at any time

Overall quite repeatable.
Does not seem to occur when I drive until the engine is really warm.

Seems like something doesn't like the 'in between' temperature.

Below my code readouts.
Pin Code Description
4 LH-SFI? 22 O2S 1 heater, open/short circuit
6 ABS/ASR 30 CAN data line to EA/CC/ISC module (N4/1)
6 ABS/ASR 31 CAN data line to: LH-SFI control module (N3/1), left LH-SFI control module (N3/2), right LH-SFI control module (N3/3)
7 EA/CC/ISC 3 EA/CC/ISC actuator (M16/1)
7 EA/CC/ISC 6 Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch (S16/3)
8 BM 16 A/C electromagnetic clutch (A9k1), short circuit
20 PSE 2 Central Locking system air demand too high
20 PSE 3 Retractable trunk lid grip or lock striker actuator air demand too high
20 PSE 4 Backup assist air deamnd too high
20 PSE 6 Manifild vaccum assist and or retractable read headrestraints air deamnd too high

Any thoughts?

Cheers
:bowdown::bowdown:
 

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1989 560 SEL, 1993 400 SEL, 1986 420 SEL, 1977 450 SL, 1984 300D, 1981 380 SL, 1983 500 SL
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606 Posts
Similar situation with my 93 400 SEL. It turned out that one of my fuel pumps quit working. I disconnected the bad one and removed it, then I hooked up the line from the tank to the good one. The car runs fantastic! Only one fuel pump needed! In order to test the fuel pumps, disconnect the positive wires from both fuel pumps. Then use a jumper wire about 8 feet long and connect one end to the "POSITIVE" terminal of the battery. Touch the other end to the positive terminal of the fuel pumps, one at a time. You will hear the fuel pumps run if they are good and nothing if they are bad. The brown wire on the pumps are the ground. Just a thought, but it worked for me!
 

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CLS350 C219 2006
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582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

Thanks for the input.
Not sure if the fuel pump could be the issue as it seems to relate to specific temperature (medium if that makes sense).
I tried something else.
Measured my battery voltage. It was 12.2V straight after driving for about 1 hour and turn the car off.
Would have expected closer to 13V.
Don't normally like random part changes, but this one seems to require replacement anyhow.
Will see how she goes tomorrow morning.

Cheers
 

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1989 560 SEL, 1993 400 SEL, 1986 420 SEL, 1977 450 SL, 1984 300D, 1981 380 SL, 1983 500 SL
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606 Posts
As soon as my 400 SEL would get up to just above 80 degrees, it would start acting up. Sometimes, it would even stall when I was sitting at a stop and wouldn't start again until it cooled down. I believe the "bad" fuel pump was running when it was cool, though probably laboring and would quit all together when the warm fuel that was returned to to tank through the fuel rail, would again cycle through the fuel pumps and the natural heating up process of the fuel pump working, along with the heated fuel caused my symtoms as well as the complete failure of the fuel pump itself. It's worth a try to test both the fuel pumps at least to eliminate them as a possibility if they are both good. If by chance they are, check your coil packs. Cracks in the coil packs lead to arcing under load and will not give the proper energy to the spark plugs if they are indeed doing this. Let me know what you find out, I am curious as to what fixes your problem.
 

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2011 GLK350,1998E300D, 2004SL500, 2006CLS500,2006ML500,2006R500, 2002 S55AMG
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1,367 Posts
I had the same problem...new chaos and rotars and the
Problem was fixed
 

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2011 GLK350,1998E300D, 2004SL500, 2006CLS500,2006ML500,2006R500, 2002 S55AMG
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1,367 Posts
Sorry typo from the iPad ...2 caps and 2 rotors were $200 total.
 

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1993 300SEL (Sold) 2007 X5
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7,218 Posts
I agree, check the condition of your distributor caps and rotors - I bet you have carbon buildup.
 

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CLS350 C219 2006
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582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I agree, check the condition of your distributor caps and rotors - I bet you have carbon buildup.
Will do.
The other thought I had (my vision not being disturbed by any knowledge:p) could it be related to the smog pump?
My reasoning (see comment above) when the catalytic converter is cold it starts 'storing' unprocessed gas until it reaches operating temperarure.
When I only drive a short distance, something small fault might trigger this behaviour????? Just a long shot.
 

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500SE-92
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130 Posts
Similar problem, car hesitates (on-off phenomenon)when trying to kickdown when warm, but not when hot or cold,

Cause : ETA.

Sometimes also ASR light at startup, but easily solved by restart.Probable cause, not enough voltage, cold weather only.But of course the ETA is bad.

But no smell, can't figure that one out.
 

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w140 s500 1994,w123 230c, w123 280ce etc
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279 Posts
could also be a camshaft position sensor had the same issues and changed everything before going on the star machine and it pulled up the sensor.
i replaced with a used one of another engine and all was well again. the same sensor is used on the 104 series engines also
 
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