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Registered
1984 380 SE
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've search the subject and found this:

There is no adjustment available at the front on the handle mechanism - the only thing one can do there is make sure no looms or modules are interfering. Aftermarket alarms and audio wirers have a habit of not routing wires perfectly....

The one thing to check that is adjustable is the slack in the handbrake. When you engage the handbrake, pull out slowly and count how many clicks you hear...the number should be between 4 and 6 ideally. Any less or too much is not good. So if you are getting too many clicks and having to really pull the handle out far, then you need to adjust the cable.

There are two ways to do this. Firstly, by adjusting the shoes at each rear wheel. Remove one lug bolt from the wheel, jack up that side enough so the wheel can be turned, disengage handbrake and move shifter into N.

Using a torch and long thin flat face screwdriver, adjust the sprocket on the mechanism until the handbrake s tighter. You need to move it one notch at a time, pull the hnadbrake and see if it reduces the number of clicks.
Do the same for the other side rear wheel.
There is also a 13mm bolt on the cable mechanism, under the car...dead centre just before the diff. You can also tighten that in, to tighten the slack in cable.
But always adjust at the shoes first.

talbir
Is this the same for loosing off the handbrake?

Mine is stuck on after lifting the car to change the wheels. Once I changed my wheels and put the car back down the handbrake stayed on. Although the handbrake light is off and the handle is fully in, in the off position.

Before this my handbrake was really tight with only 3 clicks engaging the brake.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 

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Registered
1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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11 Posts
Complete guess here.
You say you changed the wheels, so I presume you jacked the whole car up. When you put the car down, are the wheels in the normal position, ie vertical, or are they splayed in a bit, (negative camber?).
Jack the car up again, and try taking the handbrake off when it is in the air, or jack it up under the suspension on each side, one at a time, and lower it down so the car sits with the wheels in the normal position.

Like I said, just a guess.
 

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Premium Member
1987 560SEC, 1987 UNIMOG U1700L
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326 Posts
When you changed the wheels did you change the wheel bolts? If not maybe the bolts for your old wheels were too long for the new ones or changed the short ones for long ones that are going through the bolt holes and jamming the wheels. Like previously mentioned you should jack the car back up and try spinning the wheels off the ground and if no good take the wheels off and see if you can spin the brake discs.
 

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Registered
1984 380 SE
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
When you changed the wheels did you change the wheel bolts? If not maybe the bolts for your old wheels were too long for the new ones or changed the short ones for long ones that are going through the bolt holes and jamming the wheels. Like previously mentioned you should jack the car back up and try spinning the wheels off the ground and if no good take the wheels off and see if you can spin the brake discs.
That was it! So simple. :banghead: Short bolts have done the trick. Cheers!!!!
 
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