Can you replace coil springs without compressor?
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Yes. However, it's very dangerous. I'm not recommending it but here's how I did it before I got my own spring compressor.Can I do it without a compressor??
1) Jack up the car at the jacking point with tires removed.
2) Put another jack under the lower control arm and raise it without raising the car.
3) Unbolt the stabilizer bar from the control arm.
4) Unbolt the Strut from the strut mount.
5) Unbolt the caliper and hang it with wire hanger so it's not hanging by the brake hose.
6) Carefully lower the jack under the lower control arm.
(When the LCA reaches the lowest point, the spring is almost un-sprang. But, still in its perch.)
WARNING! Here is the dangerous part:
7) Pry the spring from its lower perch using a crow bar (or something similar) at the same time pushing the LCA down.
Note: I find it difficult to do No.7. So, on the other wheel, before I did No.6, I clamped 2 coils of the spring with 2 big vise grips before I lowered the LCA. It made No. 7 easier because the spring was a bit shorter.
You don't need spring compressor for the rear springs. Just unbolt the LCA.
Again I don't recommend doing it without spring compressor. One wrong move, specially on step 7, may cost you more than what it cost to buy or rent a spring compressor.
Good luck.
1997 SL600 Brilliant Silver Sport with grey/dark metal interior, 234K miles
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Even under the best of conditions, replacing/removing the springs is not to be taken lightly.
Have you ever replaced/removed springs on any vehicle and are familiar with the procedure and the forces involved?
If you are, then it's a pretty straightforward swap. I swapped out my LCAs earlier this year and it was very much like changing the springs on my '67 Camaro without a compressor.
Have you ever replaced/removed springs on any vehicle and are familiar with the procedure and the forces involved?
If you are, then it's a pretty straightforward swap. I swapped out my LCAs earlier this year and it was very much like changing the springs on my '67 Camaro without a compressor.
In addition to Edcarls' comments: You're lying half-cramped under the car working around a jack and at least one jackstand as well as a dropped LCA trying to get that sucker out of there. Then you get to try and pry and bend and twist the new spring back in, without dislodging the spring pad. Great fun...NOT!
And then the swearing isn't over, since you get to try and line up the bolt holes with the jack as you raise the LCA back into place.
You can buy a knock-off pancake-design compressor on ebay that should work fine, or else pay someone to swap them. Having been down the road before on other cars, on my W210 I chose to do the latter (I was putting in lowering springs, so I had to get it re-aligned anyway, and it was $200 for the whole deal). You can also call around and see if you can find one to rent.
If you choose to DIY this, whatever path you take please exercise extreme care. Injuries and even deaths have resulted from coil spring work.
And then the swearing isn't over, since you get to try and line up the bolt holes with the jack as you raise the LCA back into place.
You can buy a knock-off pancake-design compressor on ebay that should work fine, or else pay someone to swap them. Having been down the road before on other cars, on my W210 I chose to do the latter (I was putting in lowering springs, so I had to get it re-aligned anyway, and it was $200 for the whole deal). You can also call around and see if you can find one to rent.
If you choose to DIY this, whatever path you take please exercise extreme care. Injuries and even deaths have resulted from coil spring work.
I did the rear springs about a month ago. Took me about 6 hours, but it made a big difference in the performance of the car.
Are you putting new stock springs in or lowering springs? You can take them out ok but it's a huge PITA putting them back in without the compressor. Hell it sucks putting them back in with the compressor. If you are going to put the same springs back in, you can wrap a chain around a few coils while weight is on the car so it stays compressed. Use strong chain, this is scary. I have had a spring let loose on me while using the wrong type of compressor. Trust me you don't want to be in the path of one or have it hit your car. It really would be a good idea to use the right tool either rent it or buy it. $200 is probably cheaper than what your medical bill would be or the repair for the damage a flying spring did to any objects surrounding your work area.
I replaced my lower control arm bushings about a month ago and ran into the same issues. Here is what i found, i agree with the quoted instructions up to a point. The major difference is step 7, i did not pry the spring from the lower control arm... that is incredibly dangerous.
First i unbolted the lower control arm ball joint instead of the strut and break caliper (steps 4 and 5). Pro tip, if you do this make sure to raise the jack under the lower control arm up quite a ways to take the load off the ball joint bolt otherwise you will damage it (like i did).
Get some white out or nail polish and mark the position of the two eccentric bolts that hold your bushings. This is so you can realign them after you take the spring out. Then loosen, DO NOT REMOVE, the bolts and the lower control arm should drop gently another inch or so and the spring will fall out gracefully... in my case into your lap.
To install new springs is reverse. Just go slowly and make sure the spring seats in the lower control arm before you tighten everything down. make sure your eccentric bolts are aligned to your marks and you should be good to go.
There are a few little tricky points i hit that i did not include in this so if you get stuck feel free to ask for advice.
If i remember correctly i had an issue with the autozone spring compressor not fitting and had to go without. Still doable and not that hard. But getting one may save you the hassle of messing with the lower control arm.
In my area I have access to Advance Auto and O'Reilly and neither have the calm shell type compressor. The others don't work. I already tried with the rear.
My options are to do it without the compressor or buy one off of ebay.
Did the front springs this afternoon!! Wasn't as bad as I thought. Thanks!!! Saved me a couple hundred bucks that I can now use to buy something else.
I used some racket straps to pull the lower control arms down in order to fit the new springs. Really wasn't that bad.
Next step is an alignment!
I used some racket straps to pull the lower control arms down in order to fit the new springs. Really wasn't that bad.
Next step is an alignment!
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The auto zone rental tool spring compressor for struts helped me finish the job on the front springs. It doesn't worked for the rear.
I replaced the rear springs with out a spring compressor. Removal was simple with enough floor jacks. Once the control arm to subframe bolt is removed the spring will pretty much fall out once the jack is lowered. I also disconnected what looks to be the head light level sensor.
The high risk of danger comes in to play when installing the rear spring. If the jack slips while installing the control arm/subframe bolt and releases the spring under pressure I could imagine this being potentially deadly.
In my opinion this job should only be done with a spring compressor, I wont do it again with out the proper tool.
I replaced the rear springs with out a spring compressor. Removal was simple with enough floor jacks. Once the control arm to subframe bolt is removed the spring will pretty much fall out once the jack is lowered. I also disconnected what looks to be the head light level sensor.
The high risk of danger comes in to play when installing the rear spring. If the jack slips while installing the control arm/subframe bolt and releases the spring under pressure I could imagine this being potentially deadly.
In my opinion this job should only be done with a spring compressor, I wont do it again with out the proper tool.
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