[FtWorth1996SL500]

I would have to think the answer to this surely is "no" because you never hear anyone suggesting this. But I wondered anyway, if it's possible to reach to the places where it corrodes and put something on the leaks (JB Weld?) that would stop the leaks and do this without having to remove much of the things in the way. I realize the core is probably under high pressure at these places so nothing would hold even if you could easily get to the leaks. But thought I'd ask.

I'm contemplating buying a '96 S500 but it needs the evap core. It is otherwise a very nice 80,000-mile car.

 

[Check Codes]

Anything you could apply to the outside wouldn't seal it. It's under a great deal of pressure.

For that matter, I'm not sure I've ever heard of anyone successfully repairing one, it's rather a disposable item.

One option (and I'm not saying to do this) would be to try one of the stop-leak products on the market. Some people have used them with success. Others caution against it as it may cause blockages or other problems, but as I recall that's just a general warning, I'm not aware of anyone who had a specific problem after using a stop-leak product.

Good luck.

 

[Jayare]

4 years ago, I was putting 1 can a month of 134 in my 400e. I introduced a single treatment of Clip Light Super Seal Pro. Not in retail stores, online purchase. Haven't added any refrigerant since, air temp from the vents is 38-40 degrees, black on black car on the west coast of Florida.

 

[Thom_7]

My suggestion is that you price out a core replacement before negotiating the sale price of the car. Book on the labor is 24 hours, which can run up to $5000 depending on the shop rate. But because this is such a common issue and most owners would simply not pay that much for a repair on a fully depreciated W140, some specialists offer flat-rate pricing for the core replacement. I know there is a shop in my area that charges a flat $1200, and I'm pretty sure that my regular mechanic would do a similar deal for me if my core (God forbid) ever gave out.

I'd call around to a few specialists in your area and see if they offer any kind of similar deal, and negotiate accordingly.

 

[Jayare]

Or try the Clip Light. If I recall correctly, about $30 for the can. None of the shelf products at big box stores will work. Clip Light has excellent customer/tech service. Phones are answered by actual humans.

 

[Merc-S600]

It all depends how big the hole is on the evaporator .
Turn the car on , Heater on 1st & let it run ,then change to cold after about 2 min then take a good look near the handbrake (RHD car) ,on yours probably upper passenger corner footwall near the console ,wait until it starts leaking ,look at the amount that leaks out & how quick,that will tell you how big the leak is approx.
If it just leaks slowly slowly then you could seal it with Cryo Seal ,that will do the trick but a large leak ,NO , you be better of just bypassing the system from the firewall .:thumbsup:

This is the Search Result for " Cryo Seal " ,it reveals 7 interesting threats about your problem ,if it dosent show up ,SEARCH forum for " Cryo Seal " .
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/search.php?searchid=15348841

 

[Smokiesman]

It all depends how big the hole is on the evaporator .
Turn the car on , Heater on 1st & let it run ,then change to cold after about 2 min then take a good look near the handbrake (RHD car) ,on yours probably upper passenger corner footwall near the console ,wait until it starts leaking ,look at the amount that leaks out & how quick,that will tell you how big the leak is approx.
If it just leaks slowly slowly then you could seal it with Cryo Seal ,that will do the trick but a large leak ,NO , you be better of just bypassing the system from the firewall .:thumbsup:

This is the Search Result for " Cryo Seal " ,it reveals 7 interesting threats about your problem ,if it dosent show up ,SEARCH forum for " Cryo Seal " .
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/search.php?searchid=15348841

What he said ! Big hole no ! little hole probably fix! Put it to a vacuum and see how fast it leaks down! Repaired mine over 3 years ago and still going strong!!!

Smokie

 

[Check Codes]

Merc-S600: Except that you first must charge it to try and see how big the leak is. Even a small leak will over time leave the system pretty empty, in which case the OP will do this test and not see anything and then think he has a very, very small leak.

Drawing down vacuum as Smokiesman says will work, too, but unless you have the tools you'll have to pay someone to do this.

Personally, if the price is right considering the evap leak, I would buy it and try the clip-light Jayare recommends as part of a recharge. You can then observe as Merc-S600 suggests. If it doesn't hold, and you have room to work on it, just DIY the core. It's a lot of work, but not particularly difficult or impossible, and it's really just being methodical and tracking what you've done and yet to do. When you're done if it makes you feel better, take yourself on vacation on the labor expense you saved and it will seem more worthwhile.

Good luck.

 

[Merc-S600]

When I 1st purchased my ex S500 I had suspicion that the evaporator had a leak due to a weird smell inside the cabin & not really cold cold air , what I did go to a air condition place & they injected a coloured gas into the system to see where it leaks , to see the leak appear it takes a few days to a week , I was fortunate that it had no leak anywhere & all she needed was a dryer & gas .
This coloured gas or call it Dy , reveals all leaks including inside the engine bay where the ac pipes have the joints etc .
The Dy is not expensive to inject if there is even a charge ,depends on the place someone takes the car to to diagnose it .:thumbsup:

 

[Smokiesman]

When I 1st purchased my ex S500 I had suspicion that the evaporator had a leak due to a weird smell inside the cabin & not really cold cold air , what I did go to a air condition place & they injected a coloured gas into the system to see where it leaks , to see the leak appear it takes a few days to a week , I was fortunate that it had no leak anywhere & all she needed was a dryer & gas .
This coloured gas or call it Dy , reveals all leaks including inside the engine bay where the ac pipes have the joints etc .
The Dy is not expensive to inject if there is even a charge ,depends on the place someone takes the car to to diagnose it .:thumbsup:

I don't believe it is a gas! It is a dye that shows up under UV lite! I would also suggest that if the OP does go with a recharge and the sealer to also replace the drier!

Smokie

 

[anziani]

I live in a dry climate and I don't know if it makes any difference but I shut down the AC when I drive through the outer gate on our development. By the time I'm in my garage the blower is putting out hot air. My reasoning is that if I can get rid of any moisture condensing on the outside of the evaporator it might prolong its life. During the hot summers here I also raise the hood to let the heat bleed off the engine (and rubber bits).
Anziani

 

[The donut man]

Changing the core is not a difficult task but it is time consuming. If you do go the seal route, check your drain tubes by pulling the carpet from under the center console. Sometimes a refrigerant leak will decompose the insulation on the condensate hose.

 

[steelers6]

My suggestion is that you price out a core replacement before negotiating the sale price of the car. Book on the labor is 24 hours, which can run up to $5000 depending on the shop rate. But because this is such a common issue and most owners would simply not pay that much for a repair on a fully depreciated W140, some specialists offer flat-rate pricing for the core replacement. I know there is a shop in my area that charges a flat $1200, and I'm pretty sure that my regular mechanic would do a similar deal for me if my core (God forbid) ever gave out.

I'd call around to a few specialists in your area and see if they offer any kind of similar deal, and negotiate accordingly.

Hello i have a 96 S420 i was just told that my evaporator core needs replacing,$3000 for the repair,i know you said you know someone that will do it for $1200,what state is that mechanic from???

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[steelers6]

4 years ago, I was putting 1 can a month of 134 in my 400e. I introduced a single treatment of Clip Light Super Seal Pro. Not in retail stores, online purchase. Haven't added any refrigerant since, air temp from the vents is 38-40 degrees, black on black car on the west coast of Florida.

Was your leak coming from the evaporator core???

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[Thom_7]

He's in NYC and I think his price is up to $2000 now.

Evaporator replacment

 

[Jayare]

Was your leak coming from the evaporator core???

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Yes, the leak was/is the evaporator. To change out one in a W124, it takes about 10 hrs.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[ch.1953]

He's in NYC and I think his price is up to $2000 now.

Evaporator replacment

His web site is very interesting - thanks.

Have you used his services? If so, did he do great work for you?

Anything you might be willing to share about his work would be very helpful and much appreciated. I might send my 1999 CL500 to him, as it needs some work in a number of areas - although several areas have been done already e.g. transmission, all rear suspension, AC etc.

(My 1986 420SEL also needs quite a bit of work, but again many areas are solid - new transmission, new fuel tank, timing chain etc. has already been done etc.)

Many thanks :thumbsup:

 

[jal1224]

He (Victor) has a ton of videos on YouTube and specializes in W140 and R129 models, and an occasional other model. Does a lot of harness rewiring, module repair, throttle body repair, etc. He goes by "vsandvs" on YouTube. I couldn't find a video from him on evaporator replacement in a quick search this AM, but I think I've seen one.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[Nate D. Rector]

i used a sealer too,but now my controller buttons are broke.Don't know how to fully remove them to repair them.

 

[Steve_B]

He goes by "vsandvs" on YouTube.

And before that, he started on BW (back in 2006).

Look him up:

Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Profile: VictorS500

The dash removal job is technically not that difficult, just loooong and tedious. And judging by how many plastic bits disintegrated in my hands when I was removing the pillar trims and the rear deck trim to get to the retractable shade mechanism, one will be in for a lot of extra hours searching for replacements.

Best regards,
Steve