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· Registered
560sec 1991 US
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197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi;

I will nead to change oil in my car,
I would like to use syntetic oil(valvoline)
but I'm not sure on what oil car have previous,
I talk wih previous owner and he do not knwon, he say that he go to mechanic and tell him to change to oil what mercedes should have,

so pleas tell my could I may use syntetic oil, or better to use mineral oil?
the car have 112k miles,

Daniel
 

· Registered
1985 300sd
Joined
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69 Posts
Hi;

I will nead to change oil in my car,
I would like to use syntetic oil(valvoline)
but I'm not sure on what oil car have previous,
I talk wih previous owner and he do not knwon, he say that he go to mechanic and tell him to change to oil what mercedes should have,

so pleas tell my could I may use syntetic oil, or better to use mineral oil?
the car have 112k miles,

Daniel
Daniel,

don't you have any maintenance records at all that you can go back to?
For this model, I believe that you should use only synthetic oil 0w-30, 5W-30 and 5W-40.

However, this car has had some (not a lot) mileage on and it wouldn't do any good to drastically change the type of oil. It all depends on what previous owner was putting in it. I am a firm believer (from my own experience) that you should not put synthetic oil if the car previously operated on organic oil. Synthetic oil, in this case, will 'flush out' the engine from all the stuff building up over the years and it will cause leaks. I am pretty sure some people will contradict that. I think the safest bet is to go with 5W-30 but other SEC owners should also chime in on that.
 

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Depends on the day!
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13,419 Posts
Synthetic is Fine. Just check for leaks and note if you are using/burning much oil in the combustion chamber. If you have leaks, synthetic will usually flow out of them a bit better as it does Move Easier then conventional.

The only weight, and the only readily available synthetic that has the proper additive package for your engine is Mobil 1 15/50. Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple also make a good synthetic but you may have a hard time finding those up your way.

Jonathan
 

· Registered
560sec 1991 US
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197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for replay,
I will tray syntetic, want to use valvoline oil, I use it in my bmw and I thing that is good oil,
mobil 1 is good but here is a lot of fake and I do not known if I will buy a orginal or fake heh,
 

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2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe - RIP
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10,033 Posts
Jono - Do you think I should go with M1 in the new engine? Or stay with Delo? It will basically be a brand new engine, so...
 

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MBZ '85 380SL, RR '77 Silver Shadow II, MBZ '98 E300TD, BMW '02 E46
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659 Posts
Hi;

I will nead to change oil in my car,
I would like to use syntetic oil(valvoline)
but I'm not sure on what oil car have previous,
I talk wih previous owner and he do not knwon, he say that he go to mechanic and tell him to change to oil what mercedes should have,

so pleas tell my could I may use syntetic oil, or better to use mineral oil?
the car have 112k miles,

Daniel
Daniel,

You will see opinions vary on this significantly and in the end, it's up to you. Trying one for a few thousand miles is usually enough to determine if it works out and you don't develop unexpected leaks, most of which will stop on their own if minor. Since it's getting colder in most of the Northern hemisphere, you may want to plan a drop in viscosity through the Winter months.

I think you are unlikely to have any issues with synthetics as long as you pick a viscosity range within reason for your temperature range and the time of year you are driving it. Any leaks that develop often cure themselves (unless they were already major) after the first thousand or so miles. Mineral oil and semi-sythetic blends are also options, cost a bit less then full synthetics and have been used on these cars since they were designed, you can't go wrong with these either.

I'll deviate a bit from my fellow responders by recommending diesel oils with the top API rating rather than a conventional gasoline oil on any engine with more than 100K miles on it. Diesel oils have superior additive packages, particularly detergents, anti-soot and anti-ash, acid neutralization and so on which form in high compression engines, particularly when cold. Read upon use of diesel oils in gas engines to learn about API ratings and their meaning. As for the specific additives, those aren't explicitly part of the spec and are manufacturer specific, the main additives that are of interest are ZDDP (1000-1200 ppm is very desirable, most diesel oils have 1100-1500 ppm ZDDP) and boron, though I can't recall the part count. Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella T, Chevron Delo and Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel all fit the bill. This list is a mixed bag of synthetics, semi-syth and full synthetics - for the most part, it doesn't really matter much. The qualities of high rated modern diesel oil from the above list and their proprietary additive packages are what really matter. General purpose oil for temperate climates or warmer times of the year are the 15w-40/15w-50 viscosities. You can also find 5w-50 in the full synthetics, a good Winter choice.

There is also diesel oil with a marine rating that adds additional corrosion protection to the overall package, a nice thing to have on older motor (and a specific additive that doesn't get discussed much). The Amsoil has a combined marine/road going rating that covers this, you'd have to check if the others have added the marine rating and a new additive package for it in at least one of their products.

Also, stay away from most of the aftermarket oil filters - a lot of them have poor filtering, reduced flow and bad sealing surfaces. Stick with OE whenever possible, they aren't that much more expensive.

Good luck,

-BH
 

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1985 300SD 1988 560SEC 822 1976 450SEL 1981 300SD
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1,084 Posts
FWIW, just gave the SEC a winter service, including 5/50 synthetic...after 500k, no leaks, not burning any...motor only has 62K miles on it.

Mann filter too..

Not a bad idea to prime the camchain tensioner by disconnecting the CPS (green lead) and cranking until you see 3 Bar on the gauge. Reconnect, fire up - all good.
I'm certain this gives the camchain, tensioner and all a much easier life.
 

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Mclare, sry missed your post.

I'd start the engine on Brad Penn 30 weight break in oil. Once done with that I'd run the Brad Penn 20/50 till about 7K, @ which point I'd make the switch to M1 15/50.

Jono
 
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