Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
1995 sl 500
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The hydraulic cylinders for soft top in my 95 SL500 are leaking and will need to be sent for refurbishing.

Can I remove the cylinders and just manually lock in my hardtop till the cylinders are returned back to me ?

This is my daily driver so need the top on daily.

Thanks in advance for your answers
 

·
Registered
sl 300/24 1990mod
Joined
·
16 Posts
Sorry, dont remember how they were fitted, but it will take you 10 min to find out. Just unscrew the covers on top of the latches, then pull the cover over window, to the back of your car. Then you will see how it works...
 

·
Registered
85 300SL Euro,97 SL320,95 S420,07 S550
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
Yes you can.
Make sure you send the cylinder to Klaus.you can use the package from the post office.
I think you have 12 Cylinder
 

·
Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
Joined
·
9,834 Posts
Yes you can.
Make sure you send the cylinder to Klaus.you can use the package from the post office.
I think you have 12 Cylinder
I didn't think you could lock down the rear. According to the manual the soft top is safe to drive with the rear unlocked. They do not talk about the hard top. You can certainly lock down the front.

Of course if you remove the front ones to send them out you will have to wait for them to come back.
 

·
Registered
82 380SL 96 SL500 03 SL500
Joined
·
6,154 Posts
I didn't think you could lock down the rear. According to the manual the soft top is safe to drive with the rear unlocked. They do not talk about the hard top. You can certainly lock down the front.

Of course if you remove the front ones to send them out you will have to wait for them to come back.
I believe for an additional cost and a core charge they will send you repaired cylinders complete with latches. You would then send them your bad cylinders.
 

·
Registered
1995 sl 500
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I didn't think you could lock down the rear. According to the manual the soft top is safe to drive with the rear unlocked. They do not talk about the hard top. You can certainly lock down the front.

Of course if you remove the front ones to send them out you will have to wait for them to come back.
Yes you can manually lock down the rear also. It is not mentioned in the manual but there are DIY posts in these forums that detail the steps (and seem easy enough)
 

·
Registered
1995 sl 500
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes you can.
Make sure you send the cylinder to Klaus.you can use the package from the post office.
I think you have 12 Cylinder
Thanks. I was planning on sending to Klaus. He has nothing but good reputation for his quality of service and support. :)
 

·
Registered
'03 SL Kleemann, 1997 SL320 Pano Top, Tesla Model X
Joined
·
661 Posts
You can drive your car while the cylinders are out; it's a little extra work...

Thank you all for the questions, comments and suggestions. I'll paste my responses in below...

The hydraulic cylinders for soft top in my 95 SL500 are leaking and will need to be sent for refurbishing.

Can I remove the cylinders and just manually lock in my hardtop till the cylinders are returned back to me ?
Unless several cylinders have been replaced recently, it is generally a good idea to have all cylinders rebuilt and upgraded at once - you save money, frustration and labor in the end. You are on the right track.

Yes, you can remove the cylinders and lock the top manually while the cylinders are out for rebuild; it's just a little extra work. Here is how works:

Your '95 has six locks with cylinders in them. That's the two front locks, the two rear locks, and the two tonneau locks. You can get away with re-installing only one tonneau cover lock (right side instead of left and right) while the cylinders are gone. In either case, you can manually lock the soft top or the hard top.

Normally, we encourage our customers to send in the cylinders still mounted to their locks, so that you save the labor of removing the cylinders from the locks, and the possibility of scratching the cylinder shafts during the process. However, our online instructions show you how to remove the cylinders from the locks, anyway. Just don't use vise grips and be careful not to bang the shafts against the sharp edges of the tonneau or rear locks!!!

In order to use your car while the cylinders are out, you will have to re-install the locks without the cylinders. Here are some details:

1) Front locks are straightforward
2) Tonneau cover locks require a trick, or they will likely jam up when trying to lock them manually without the cylinder: place a rubber band between the cylinder's anchor bolt on the bottom and the piece that the cylinder shaft screws into. A few more pointers:
Model years '90-'94 need both tonneau locks re-installed, or the warning chime will go off when you first drive the car.
Model years '95-'96 need only the right lock re-installed for the temporary measure (there is no micro switch on the left one).
Model years '97-'02 have only the one right tonneau cover lock, anyway.
3) Rear locks on '95+ model years are a bit of a pain to latch manually, but it's not terrible. I'll explain below.

Yes you can.
Make sure you send the cylinder to Klaus.you can use the package from the post office.
Ulf, thank you for your firm recommendation. Ulf has had some trouble with other rebuilders and their quality of workmanship and replacement seals decaying. No need to mention names; it's been covered elsewhere and most BenzWorld members know who our competition is. Top Hydraulics is by far the largest rebuilder, I know that our seal quality is by far the best, and I think our pricing is still the lowest (volume makes it possible).

Shipping in a USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Box is usually the best option. It takes two to three days to get here and costs you a little upward of ten Dollars. Just make sure to drain the fluid out of your cylinders, wrap them in plastic bags, buffer the parcel, and tape it up well. We double-box most of our return shipments.

I didn't think you could lock down the rear. According to the manual the soft top is safe to drive with the rear unlocked. They do not talk about the hard top. You can certainly lock down the front.

Of course if you remove the front ones to send them out you will have to wait for them to come back.
It is easy to manually latch the rear locks on '90-'94 models, and the process is covered in the owner's manual. I will address the trick to manually latching the rear locks on '95-'02 models below.

It may be safe from an operational standpoint to drive the car without the rear being locked down, but you will have to put up with noise, draft, the chime from the system, and the possibility of people lifting up the rear while you are parked.

I believe for an additional cost and a core charge they will send you repaired cylinders complete with latches. You would then send them your bad cylinders.
Thanks for mentioning that. We usually have all cylinders in stock, plus most locks. In our up-front or core-exchange option, we ship the cylinders from our stock before you send in your old ones. It is a bit more expensive and you have to first pay a refundable core charge. The convenience is great, though. We will ship the cylinders in locks matching your model year if we have them available, upon request and at no additional charge. We try to send at least the tonneau cover locks, as most folks don't have a suitable 5-mm open wrench needed for proper cylinder removal from the lock.

The advantages are hopefully obvious:
- You can replace the cylinders in pairs and check after each pair-exchange that everything is okay (run the engine or keep a charger on the battery)
- You can easily use the car even if you haven't finished the job yet (if swapping in pairs)
- You get yourself and the car dirty only once
- You save time on the job: getting tools and instructions ready, putting things away, not having to re-install the locks twice, not having to remember how this all went together one or two weeks ago

Yes you can manually lock down the rear also. It is not mentioned in the manual but there are DIY posts in these forums that detail the steps (and seem easy enough)
I will post two photos with text in them below, illustrating the manual latching or unlatching process in the rear of '95+ models. One of the photos shows removal of the trunk panel, which you will have done already for all cylinder removals. These photos have been used in several DIY posts before. This is a procedure that is not covered in your car's manual.

First, make sure that both rear locks are open before trying to latch them down with the soft top or the hard top in them. The lever shown in the photo below is accessible from the trunk and can be manipulated with a 10-mm open wrench or the soft top tool. Moving the lever up unlocks the latch, and moving it down locks it during the last few Millimeters of travel when the top is coming down inside the lock.

Thus, in your case, push the top down on the lock with one hand while helping it latch completely at the end of travel when pushing down the lever with the wrench. It takes some maneuvering around the tank filler pipe.

Thanks. I was planning on sending to Klaus. He has nothing but good reputation for his quality of service and support. :)
We're trying to keep it that way - we thrive on having happy customers. Sometimes, that takes working 14-hour days myself and asking employees to work overtime, but I enjoy sleeping with a good conscience... :)

-Klaus

[email protected]
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1995 sl 500
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Klaus thank you very much for assisting me over the phone with the problem where my bottom bolt for the driver side main lift cylinder was freely spinning due to worn bolt threads. I was able to take it out by applying the principle you outlined it it should be pulled while being turned. I jammed a scredriver againt the undersided of the bolt head and pushed out with my knee while turning and after a while it caught traction and then came out easily. I will just buy a new one and replace it (part # A1299910212) as the threads are worn toward the lower edge (see pic) and it is under $20. I cannot say if sheet metal is also worn out. But thanks again. As soon as the remaining 2 cylinders are out it will send them for repair. :bowdown:
I have only heard excellent comments about your service but now I have experineced it.

Sincerly
Gadha1
 

Attachments

·
Registered
97 SL600 Pano, ex: 96 (late 95) SL320
Joined
·
259 Posts
Waking up and old thread here. I removed the cylinders last weekend and sent them on their way to Klaus today. I've attached the hardtop, but the red light in the top switch won't go off. I'm pretty sure I've latched both the front and rear locks properly. With the top off, the light went off once I made sure the bow extension microswitch was open, though now that I think about it, I'm not sure if it was that or adjusting the passenger side tonneau lock that did the trick. Anyway, I guess there's nothing wrong with the tonneau lock sensor.

Any tips on how to proceed? Next I'm thinking to check if the microswitches in the front locks are adjusted correctly. Could also use a multimeter to check the rear locks even when the top is attached (at least one thing I could do without bothering other people for help, yay! :)).

For now, I've disconnected the buzzer, but that's not really the nicest solution.
 

·
Registered
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
Joined
·
949 Posts
avoiding the chime while the cylinders are out of the locks

juuso,

congrats on installing the locks again without cylinders in them, while you are waiting for us to rebuild your whole set. Congrats also on snipping the correct wire for the chime in the dome light assembly. You had already removed the dome light assembly to get the distributor 1298000022 out of the windshield header, so that makes it a little easier.

Just for completeness, forum member rorypff pointed out that it is pretty easy to prevent the empty front locks from jamming with the use of wooden dowels:

6-mm or 1/4-inch dowels should work out well.
The tonneau locks can jam, as well, when latched manually without cylinders in place - a rubber band in the right place will take care of it.

juuso, if your locks are not jammed, then I would find the front lock micro switches the most likely suspect for your chime still coming on. Maybe they got bumped when you removed and re-installed the front locks 1298000774 and 1298000874.

I have not heard before that the bow extension micro switch ever triggers the chime - the controller should only be looking for latch signals.

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc

 

·
Registered
97 SL600 Pano, ex: 96 (late 95) SL320
Joined
·
259 Posts
OK, thanks for the hints, I'll investigate more tomorrow. Jamming shouldn't be the issue. My friend actually happened to have some bolts with the correct thread (I think you said M6 in another post somewhere?) in his toolbox, so we put those in the front locks when we removed the cylinders.
 

·
Registered
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
Joined
·
949 Posts
My friend actually happened to have some bolts with the correct thread (I think you said M6 in another post somewhere?) in his toolbox, so we put those in the front locks when we removed the cylinders.
Awesome! M6 is indeed the correct thread on the front locks.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
 

·
Registered
97 SL600 Pano, ex: 96 (late 95) SL320
Joined
·
259 Posts
The problem was in the driver's side front lock. Fixed now, though I wasn't able to adjust the microswitch properly and now the car would complain if I took the top off. I'll have to figure that out when reinstalling the cylinders. No worries about having to drive with the top open for now anyway. Turns out we're about to get some snow during the weekend, and the temperature is going to go back below freezing. Should have known this early spring was too good to be true...
 

·
Registered
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
Joined
·
949 Posts
The problem was in the driver's side front lock. Fixed now, though I wasn't able to adjust the microswitch properly and now the car would complain if I took the top off. I'll have to figure that out when reinstalling the cylinders.
That would mean the correction went a bit too far. You will get it right once the lock is removed for cylinder installation. Note that you have two ways to make the adjustment: loosen the Phillips screw and move the switch around, or slightly bend the metal lever. Bending the lever is my preferred method. Try to make it look just like the photos in my previous post.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicinc.com
 

·
Registered
97 SL600 Pano, ex: 96 (late 95) SL320
Joined
·
259 Posts
Juuso, can you tell me how you temporarily disconnected the buzzer for the top? Thanks, Chris
The buzzer is inside the dome light assembly above the interior rear view mirror. First you need to remove the mirror. Look it up if you haven't done it before, it's a bit tricky but there's a bunch of threads about it. Then there are 4 or 5 screws you need to remove, one under each map light lens, and the rest in the bracket to which the mirror was attached. Now the dome should be loose, just hanging by the wires. I don't remember exactly how the wiring goes up there, but disconnecting one of the connectors disconnects the chime (along with the interior temperature sensor).
 

·
Registered
R129
Joined
·
17 Posts
The buzzer is inside the dome light assembly above the interior rear view mirror. First you need to remove the mirror. Look it up if you haven't done it before, it's a bit tricky but there's a bunch of threads about it. Then there are 4 or 5 screws you need to remove, one under each map light lens, and the rest in the bracket to which the mirror was attached. Now the dome should be loose, just hanging by the wires. I don't remember exactly how the wiring goes up there, but disconnecting one of the connectors disconnects the chime (along with the interior temperature sensor).
Thanks! Looking forward to disconnecting that constant warning buzzer!
 

·
Registered
R129
Joined
·
17 Posts
Klaus, I have my cylinders removed from my '92 500SL to send to you. I noticed in this thread you mentioned "Model years '90-'94 need both tonneau locks re-installed, or the warning chime will go off when you first drive the car." This is the issue I am having. I took the complete lock assy's out to send to you and put the hardtop on manually. Now I am getting that constant warning buzzer as well. I have been told there is a wire I can disconnect somewhere around the rear view mirror. Do you know if that could be a temp fix while I'm waiting for the cylinders to be sent back? When the car is in drive and my foot goes off the brake, the buzzer is constant. Many Thanks, Chris
 

·
Registered
1990 500SL
Joined
·
225 Posts
I managed to drop that pin, A1299910212, inside frame. Any chance to pick it up? (main cylinder lower bolt, drivers side)
edit: Managed to pick it up, with magnet...take some time. Do not drop it!
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top