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XFire Roadster; ML550; ML350.
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I recently acquired a 2006 Ml350 with 104k miles, the Check Engine Light was on and is on still at this point. The used car dealer guy with his OBD tool showed me that the car had P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019 codes. The car is running fine without a single problem on the engine. I thought it was only the camshaft sensors problem. I have spent lot of time researching the problem and pointed to the Balance shaft problem with this M272 engine. Yes the engine number fell in the Balance shaft problem range. And Carfax does not show if the Balance shaft has ever been replaced. The Cam Magnets have newer part number on them though.

I had it diagnosed at local MB dealership and they
"fount code for cam timing advanced 1207 1211 1199 1023 R&R right cam sensors and inspect basic timing found vehicle is 10-12 degrees advanced." They gave me estimate for Balance Shaft replacement of $6374

All those codes indicate the camshaft are advanced and it is opposite of Errors for the Balance shaft problem - Cam shafts would be Retarded on right cylinder bank.
I removed the cam sprocket covers and inspected them myself, yes the camshafts are all advanced in relation to the crankshaft. With the crankshaft at 305 deg mark, the markings on the impulse wheels are slightly advanced. With the crankshaft on the 40 deg mark, the markings on the sprockets are also slightly advanced that they don't line up like the instructions on one of those YouTube videos, on both cylinder banks. The timing chain seems to be nice and tight without any slacks. I turned the crankshaft forward and backward slightly.
I've found two incidents on the web with these error codes but I did not see what the problems were and the remedies.
I would hate to spend $2k to have somebody remove timing cover to pinpoint problem further.
Has anybody here seen a similar problem on that engine model? Could that be that the timing chain somehow jumped one tooth backward on the crankshaft sprocket? Or maybe the timing chain Tensioner goes bad and caused the camshaft advanced?
Thanks in advance for all your helps and ideas.
Trong
 

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Hi All,
I recently acquired a 2006 Ml350 with 104k miles, the Check Engine Light was on and is on still at this point. The used car dealer guy with his OBD tool showed me that the car had P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019 codes. The car is running fine without a single problem on the engine. I thought it was only the camshaft sensors problem. I have spent lot of time researching the problem and pointed to the Balance shaft problem with this M272 engine. Yes the engine number fell in the Balance shaft problem range. And Carfax does not show if the Balance shaft has ever been replaced. The Cam Magnets have newer part number on them though.

I had it diagnosed at local MB dealership and they
"fount code for cam timing advanced 1207 1211 1199 1023 R&R right cam sensors and inspect basic timing found vehicle is 10-12 degrees advanced." They gave me estimate for Balance Shaft replacement of $6374

All those codes indicate the camshaft are advanced and it is opposite of Errors for the Balance shaft problem - Cam shafts would be Retarded on right cylinder bank.
I removed the cam sprocket covers and inspected them myself, yes the camshafts are all advanced in relation to the crankshaft. With the crankshaft at 305 deg mark, the markings on the impulse wheels are slightly advanced. With the crankshaft on the 40 deg mark, the markings on the sprockets are also slightly advanced that they don't line up like the instructions on one of those YouTube videos, on both cylinder banks. The timing chain seems to be nice and tight without any slacks. I turned the crankshaft forward and backward slightly.
I've found two incidents on the web with these error codes but I did not see what the problems were and the remedies.
I would hate to spend $2k to have somebody remove timing cover to pinpoint problem further.
Has anybody here seen a similar problem on that engine model? Could that be that the timing chain somehow jumped one tooth backward on the crankshaft sprocket? Or maybe the timing chain Tensioner goes bad and caused the camshaft advanced?
Thanks in advance for all your helps and ideas.
Trong
when the balance shaft goes it it will throw codes 1200 and 1208 and will retard the timing. the vehicle you have does not have a bad balance shaft. If you replace all 4 camshaft magnets and drivthe vehicle you will find that the tming will come back into spec.

I am a mercedes Benz technician and i am currently doing a balance shaft now at the shop. codes 1200 and 1208 are the codes that designate the balance shaft has failed. the code would say continous camshaft adjustemnt right bank is retared and same thing for left bank
 

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XFire Roadster; ML550; ML350.
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Discussion Starter #3
Buggwuggy,
Thank you very much for the info. I will give it a shot replacing the magnets.

Trong
 

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XFire Roadster; ML550; ML350.
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I replaced all four camshaft magnets and use my cheapo OBD tool to erase the DTC codes. The ML will still start up and running fine but the CEL turns on THE SECOND TIME it got started and it stays on thereafter. I repeated the erasing, starting sequence for few times and yes CEL turns on the second time it got started. BTW, I changed engine oil with Mobil1 and a new filter too. Weird, I took it for a drive about 45 miles with about 35miles freeway at 80MPH and the rest is city street. It runs just fine even at high speed and passing semi trucks was not a problem at all.

I will wait until the weather get a bit warmer then look at the mechanical aspect of it namely the timing chain and related components.
Please feel free to reply to this thread and give me your ideas. Thanks in advance for your helps and ideas.
 

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07 W219 CLS 350 CGI (sold), 03 W163 ML 500,
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192 Posts
Hi,

Obviously, the balance shaft sprocket is not the culprit in this case. Like buggwuggy2017 said, only P1200 and/or 1280 fault codes come with it.
Bad camshafts solenoïd would throw P0059, 0060, 0063, 0064, 0271, 0272, 0275, and 0276 codes and you have none of them either.
It seems eveything came back to normal after you change your oil (nice try by the way).
I assume the last oil change was made by the dealer so you might don't know what oil grade (rather than brand) he used at this time (probably a thicker grade than normal or ... no change at all)
Keep using Mobil (0W or 5W-40) or other brand that fullfill with MB 229.5 standard requirement.
What is the external temperature home these days ?
 

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W163 Crash Test Driver
2008 ML350 (Me!), 2010 GLK350 (Wife), 2003 ML-350 (Deceased)
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1,408 Posts
I am a mercedes Benz technician
Not to de-rail the thread, but on the subject of camshaft magnets. @buggywuggy2017, do you see the camshaft solenoid magnets go bad and "chatter" at your shop? With the help of @43sqd I have been chasing down an annoying noise that happens 8-10 seconds after a cold start. After removing the belt and starting cold, it appears the solenoids are energizing and adjusting for about 1-second and making a racket. No codes and they are working, just noisy. Common?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi all,
To answer your guys' questions. The oil I use in this M272 engine is Mobil1 5W-30 and that is the oil I use for all my automobiles, and they are all German, year round. The temperature here in the last few week varies from mid 20's to mid 40's for high. The oil I pumped out did not look too bad to me but to be safe I change the oil and filter anyway, the filter did not look bad either. I use MightyVac pump to extract oil in all my vehicles, for years now, never a problem. I use MANN or Hengst filters and not cheap Chinese clones. For Mercedes engines I think the Pump actually removes more oil than the old fashion oil drain.
That one day when I took it out for a drive, the temperature at the time was in low 40's. Did not feel bad at all after spending few weeks in the mid 20's. Before I drove it out, I ran the engine with no load for about 5 minutes at 1500-2000RPM, just to warm it up since it has been sitting outside. I purchased those magnets off eBay, and they are genuine Mercedes parts in sealed boxes.
I will spend some time within the next week, temperature will be in the mid 50's, to isolate the mechanical side of the matter.
Thank you for your inputs and have a wonderful day.
 

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07 W219 CLS 350 CGI (sold), 03 W163 ML 500,
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192 Posts
Hi,

It seems you're doing everything well! Just one remark, use 0W or 5W-40 instead of 30. This 30 "summer" oil grade is not suitable for this engine (its been developped for diesel engines and not for lubrication reasons).
Enjoy your ML!
 

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W163 Crash Test Driver
2008 ML350 (Me!), 2010 GLK350 (Wife), 2003 ML-350 (Deceased)
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1,408 Posts
Use 0W or 5W-40 instead of 30. This 30 "summer" oil grade is not suitable for this engine
FYI: The "W" in oil grades stands for "Winter Grade" and indicates it's been tested at low temps.
 

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2010 W164 ML350 4Matic
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Hey all, new to the thread here. I have a '10 W164 and I am having a similar issue. The car runs fine, no hesitation, no no-start conditions, etc. I replaced all four magnets and the related sensors. Just as was stated, I can clear the codes using my scanner (I have a full system iCarsoft scanner for Mercedes vehicles), and on the first start-up and continuous run the MIL light will NOT light up. However, as soon as I go for that second start-up after clearing the codes, the MIL light comes on and will not go away till I use the scanner.
I know it cannot be anything mechanical because the car runs like a dream. I've had it since 77k and I'm at 101K. I keep thinking there is something simple I am overlooking. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also, because it showed in this thread. I have only used the recommended Mobil1 0w40 and she runs awesome and that's here in crappy Chicago winter weather. Just my two cents.

I look forward to the input
 

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2010 W164 ML350 4Matic
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Hey all, new to the thread here. I have a '10 W164 and I am having a similar issue. The car runs fine, no hesitation, no no-start conditions, etc. I replaced all four magnets and the related sensors. Just as was stated, I can clear the codes using my scanner (I have a full system iCarsoft scanner for Mercedes vehicles), and on the first start-up and continuous run the MIL light will NOT light up. However, as soon as I go for that second start-up after clearing the codes, the MIL light comes on and will not go away till I use the scanner.
I know it cannot be anything mechanical because the car runs like a dream. I've had it since 77k and I'm at 101K. I keep thinking there is something simple I am overlooking. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also, because it showed in this thread. I have only used the recommended Mobil1 0w40 and she runs awesome and that's here in crappy Chicago winter weather. Just my two cents.

I look forward to the input
Those DTC codes being p0018 and p0019. p0019 tends to refer to crankshaft position sensor, but I know that is not an issue because none of the symptoms of a bad crankshaft position sensor are present.
 

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Vulgaris, please post your full vin# and also supply the M/B part # of one of the sensors.
 

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Vulgaris, please post your full vin# and also supply the M/B part # of one of the sensors.
4JGBB8GB8AA579030
0232103114, A0041536028
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly and your input on this.
And I think maybe, I got a couple of faulty sensors. I think I made an error in not using Bosch parts, but instead bought them from a place called AllMotorSports.
 

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W163 Crash Test Driver
2008 ML350 (Me!), 2010 GLK350 (Wife), 2003 ML-350 (Deceased)
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And here is your vehicles Datacard for your records.
 

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According to your vin #, you installed the wrong part number. I couldn't find anything on this part # 0232103114 .
I am getting verification and/or replacements from the vendor. We'll see how it shakes out. Great help, you guys, really awesome. Thank you!
 

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According to your vin #, you installed the wrong part number. It is one for a 271 Eng.

I couldn't find anything on this part # 0232103114 .
Could you provide the proper part number for the 272 engine? I'm getting conflicting numbers and info. After installing the replacements the vendor "assured" me were the correct ones, I am still getting the same issue. I should have just asked straight away what the correct P/N was for my engine from you. Thanks for your help and input.
 
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