Eric - I do respect your M-B knowledge... but are you sure about this? I took a good look at my 112 engine today, and I can only see one CPS - unless it is at the other end of the engine
Posts by keyhole
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Hi Julie - welcome to the CLK forum. Please take a moment to use the UserCP above to add some details about your location, model, etc. It often helps.
About your post - probably better if you had started a new thread with an appropriate title, as this one was about camshaft position sensor replacement, and was finished. However, you are new and we can cut you a little slack....
Your post is interesting as you described your fault and the subsequent investigation journey. It's always important that you list the mileage on the car as this is often significant. If you read other threads about CPS & KPS you will know that the M-B fault codes for these failures are frequently unreliable...
It looks like you have nailed the original fault by cleaning (why not replacing?) your MAF. It should not get black so there is a potential future problem in that area. I would do a thorough clean-up of the suspect areas of the engine, so that over the next few weeks you can better monitor where the oil leakage is definitely coming from. It's very easy to get mislead about the source of oil leaks.
michom has just successfully changed his CPS so should have an idea about the possiblity of leaks in the connector area. Over to him....:thumbsup:
About your post - probably better if you had started a new thread with an appropriate title, as this one was about camshaft position sensor replacement, and was finished. However, you are new and we can cut you a little slack....
Your post is interesting as you described your fault and the subsequent investigation journey. It's always important that you list the mileage on the car as this is often significant. If you read other threads about CPS & KPS you will know that the M-B fault codes for these failures are frequently unreliable...
It looks like you have nailed the original fault by cleaning (why not replacing?) your MAF. It should not get black so there is a potential future problem in that area. I would do a thorough clean-up of the suspect areas of the engine, so that over the next few weeks you can better monitor where the oil leakage is definitely coming from. It's very easy to get mislead about the source of oil leaks.
michom has just successfully changed his CPS so should have an idea about the possiblity of leaks in the connector area. Over to him....:thumbsup:
Ah... you have a 2001. That's really for the W208 forum. Completely different engine here, as it is a M111.
I took a look at my WIS, and there is a special note about your exact problem. It's obviously well known by M-B, and entails replacing the camshaft adjustment solenoid, and installing an adaptor cable.
Relevant pages here for you to digest. (there seems to be a typesetting error in the second image, but you can guess the intent) You will have to enlarge the text using the page magnifyer on your PC. Parts reqd are:
Adaptor cable A271 150 27 33. Tie strap QA0012 997 83 90
Re your MAF, yes you have identified it correctly. If it's working OK you have been lucky as they are quite sensitive to pollution. However if you do the fix recommended, all those other bits will not be affected.
I took a look at my WIS, and there is a special note about your exact problem. It's obviously well known by M-B, and entails replacing the camshaft adjustment solenoid, and installing an adaptor cable.
Relevant pages here for you to digest. (there seems to be a typesetting error in the second image, but you can guess the intent) You will have to enlarge the text using the page magnifyer on your PC. Parts reqd are:
Adaptor cable A271 150 27 33. Tie strap QA0012 997 83 90
Re your MAF, yes you have identified it correctly. If it's working OK you have been lucky as they are quite sensitive to pollution. However if you do the fix recommended, all those other bits will not be affected.
Attachments
Julie - I just did a search in the W208 archives to see if anyone there has ever reported your fault. There is one dated 2005, (early days for this site!) also with a 2001 CLK 230:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208-clk-class/1241588-oil-leak-into-ecu.html
Unfortunately there was no conclusion to that thread.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208-clk-class/1241588-oil-leak-into-ecu.html
Unfortunately there was no conclusion to that thread.
Hi Julie
I agree with Greg that unless a mod moves your thread to the W208 forum, we might as well continue here. And his point about the 202 and 203 forums is important too. Confusingly, M-B shares some engines between different body styles, so you have to be prepared to look in both areas.
Regarding your oil leak problem, and M-B's attitude to such a 'design fault' - I suppose that they consider that anything that lasts beyond their 3 year warranty period (in the US) only fails through 'fair wear & tear'. In this instance they are clearly wrong. However, they will do free replacements of some parts. One example I know about is the free replacements of thousands of the 3rd brake light on the W209 CLK.
Finally, a couple of tips here, as your dad is available to do basic jobs for you. Get yourself a 3 DVD set of M-B WIS (service manual) from eBay. Mine was only £10 and has lots of good stuff, including torque settings. He also should have a couple of torque wrenches - one for the low range, say 5 -25 Nm, and the other for the high range. I spent years fixing my cars without owning a TW, but now for my CLK I always use them - even for fitting the wheels.
I'll monitor here for any future comments on your progress. Use PM for anything else. :thumbsup:
I agree with Greg that unless a mod moves your thread to the W208 forum, we might as well continue here. And his point about the 202 and 203 forums is important too. Confusingly, M-B shares some engines between different body styles, so you have to be prepared to look in both areas.
Regarding your oil leak problem, and M-B's attitude to such a 'design fault' - I suppose that they consider that anything that lasts beyond their 3 year warranty period (in the US) only fails through 'fair wear & tear'. In this instance they are clearly wrong. However, they will do free replacements of some parts. One example I know about is the free replacements of thousands of the 3rd brake light on the W209 CLK.
Finally, a couple of tips here, as your dad is available to do basic jobs for you. Get yourself a 3 DVD set of M-B WIS (service manual) from eBay. Mine was only £10 and has lots of good stuff, including torque settings. He also should have a couple of torque wrenches - one for the low range, say 5 -25 Nm, and the other for the high range. I spent years fixing my cars without owning a TW, but now for my CLK I always use them - even for fitting the wheels.
I'll monitor here for any future comments on your progress. Use PM for anything else. :thumbsup:
Hi Julie - this it what you do.. (see how useful this 'all model' WIS is?)
I have no idea what the material is that your seal is made of. A type of tough neoprene? Why not replace all of them while you are in there.
By the way, a 'drift' is a tool made of something not so 'hard' that it would damage the item it is being placed against during the hammering. In this case, a small block of wood might do the trick.
Obviously take great care - you dont want junk dropping down here.
I have no idea what the material is that your seal is made of. A type of tough neoprene? Why not replace all of them while you are in there.
By the way, a 'drift' is a tool made of something not so 'hard' that it would damage the item it is being placed against during the hammering. In this case, a small block of wood might do the trick.
Obviously take great care - you dont want junk dropping down here.
Attachments
You are quite right Eric. :thumbsup:
I was trying to think of something non-metallic that would not damage the new seal during installation. Obviously M-B have an expensive special tool for this job, which is quoted in the WIS.
Would you lubricate the seal to help it on its way?
Are you sure that you have got the plastic engine cover on properly?
I have read that when re-fitting , unless you bang your fist down on the cover at the bulkhead end - to ensure that the air intake hole is completely seated - that is the exact code you will get.
I have seen the M-B techs at my local dealership do this trick, and clearly for a good reason. Maybe a light touch of lubricant around the rim would help.
Anyway, it's worth considering...:thumbsup:
I have read that when re-fitting , unless you bang your fist down on the cover at the bulkhead end - to ensure that the air intake hole is completely seated - that is the exact code you will get.
I have seen the M-B techs at my local dealership do this trick, and clearly for a good reason. Maybe a light touch of lubricant around the rim would help.
Anyway, it's worth considering...:thumbsup:
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