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· Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,890 Posts
Hello everyone,
I recently had some troubles with firing the engine on my clk320 2003. Problems always came up when the car is warm, I usually wait for a minutes and fire again and the engine starts. A local mechanic used his scanner and told me it was the camshaft position sensor. I asked the dealer here, it costs $250 in Lebanon, and I found the same one on ebay for $47 + $20 (shipping).

So I've got a couple of questions. The dealer is Deutsche Parts, is it going to be reliable or it is not worth saving those ~$180? Could the problem be something else than the camshaft position sensor?

Thanks in Advance!!
Be careful on this, Camshaft position sensor will not kill the engine or create problems with starting, the crankshaft position sensor will. I hope he has not confused the two:eek: The camshaft position sensor (CPS) sends information to help with mixture adaptation etc, whereas the Cranshaft position sensor is the wake up call for the ECU (engine Contol Unit) and the ECU sends the signal for the fuel pump to activate.
The Crankshaft position sensor is also know as the (KPS) is known to break down when hot.
 

· Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,890 Posts
I have read about both of them. I never had the problem where the sensor kills the engine. I only have the problem when i sometimes start the car, i hear the engine "cranking" but it won't start, it keeps trying to start until i turn over the key, wait for a minute, and try again, it starts normally. The scanner shows CPS fault only and it showed the camshaft location in WIS (i guess) when he entered the fault code (front of the engine on its right?). The problem is, it is hard to trust a mechanic over here, even if he works in MB...
If you have the E320 then its the V6 engine with two camshaft position sensors, left bank and right bank. If one fails completely it will not cause this problem. So back to the training stage for your mechanic:D

The main reason I say be careful here is the KPS does not (always) show a fault code and if the mechanic does not understand what I have just told you then he could be fooled into thinking the CPS is the main cause.:thumbsup:
 

· Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,890 Posts
it is a CLK320 with a V6 engine. as far as I understood, there's one camshaft position sensor, check this post, someone attached a picture http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w209-new-clk-class/1432117-camshaft-position-sensor-location.html
I have also read elsewhere that other people has such problems... but I need to be sure.

is there any way to be sure if it's the KPS or CPS?
The picture you posted is from WIS and shows the right bank camshaft position sensor but there is a left bank position sensor as well. There is no way to be 100% sure if it is the CPS or KPS.
 

· Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,890 Posts
Eric - I do respect your M-B knowledge... but are you sure about this? I took a good look at my 112 engine today, and I can only see one CPS - unless it is at the other end of the engine :confused:
Whoops, I stand corrected:thumbsup:
 

· Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,890 Posts
Hi Julie - this it what you do.. (see how useful this 'all model' WIS is?)

I have no idea what the material is that your seal is made of. A type of tough neoprene? Why not replace all of them while you are in there.

By the way, a 'drift' is a tool made of something not so 'hard' that it would damage the item it is being placed against during the hammering. In this case, a small block of wood might do the trick.

Obviously take great care - you dont want junk dropping down here.
Correct, but a drift (the original meaning) is made of copper or brass. Please do not use wood.
 

· Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,890 Posts
You are quite right Eric. :thumbsup:

I was trying to think of something non-metallic that would not damage the new seal during installation. Obviously M-B have an expensive special tool for this job, which is quoted in the WIS.

Would you lubricate the seal to help it on its way?
A little oil around the edge will not go amiss, also try to find something about the same size of the seal, an old bearing or like and place it over the seal. Then tap the seal in using this, in place of an expensive MB special tool.
 
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