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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Discussion Starter #1
A P0015 code started last month on my 2007 S550. After one reset with my OBDII scanner, the CEL came back after a week. Not wanting to have this get worse, did some research and found the following which prompted me to jump on this DIY repair for an original solenoid magnet that should be replaced with an upgrade.

Purpose
The camshaft sensor is magnetic device with a solenoid. It gathers and sends information about the car’s camshaft speed (and as a result the position of each piston) to the electronic control module. This information is received by the computer, which then uses this data to further calculate the time of ignition and the timing of fuel injection required by the engine. Progressive problems with these sensors are:

1. "Check Engine" Light
The first symptom of a failing camshaft sensor manifests as a warning from the car’s control module. As the camshaft sensor fails, the computer sends the driver a warning sign via the “check engine” light on the car’s dashboard. When the check engine light first comes on, the driver has enough time to service the car and replace all faulty parts, including the failing camshaft sensor. However, if you ignore this flashing light for a considerable time, it could later lead to engine trouble.

2. Disrupted Driving
Another symptom of a failing camshaft sensor is experiencing constant disruption while driving. If you are experiencing symptoms like frequent stalling, poor idling of the car at 500 to 600 rpms, a massive drop in the rpms slowing down the car to a crawl, a noticeable drop in engine power, poor mileage, abnormal acceleration activity, frequent stumbling, etc., it probably means you have a failing camshaft sensor that needs immediate attention.

3. Ignition Trouble
If you ignore all of the above symptoms, you end up with one that really can’t be ignored—no ignition. Remember, as the sensor begins to weaken, so does the signal it transmits to the car’s computerized control station. If you let the problem carry on for too long, the engine will suffer from a “no spark” situation. Once the signal switches off, so will your engine, thereby stranding you.
 

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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Discussion Starter #2
Troubleshooting

For my condition, P0015 code is Bank 1 Position "B" for the Camshaft Position Sensor. (Not to be confused with the single Crankshaft Position Sensor which detects the flywheel and crankshaft position). Bank 1 is passenger side of engine, and position "B" is the exhaust cam. So I needed to replace the solenoid on the exhaust cam on the passenger's side of the engine. The top one is the Intake and the bottom is the Exhaust. As a preventive measure, I replaced both solenoids. The M272 and M273 engines have four camshaft positions sensors and solenoids, so other CEL similar codes may be p0011, p0012, and P0014.

Found a STAR diagnostic screen which indicates Solenoid Magnet replacement is part# A2720510177 as opposed to doing the hall-effect sensor replacement for M272 engine (STAR also indicates not to replace the hall-effect sensor). My S550 is a 2007 5,461 cc (5.461 L; 333.3 cu in) V8 (M273) engine. However, the M272 and M273 are modular cousins, and the M272 is just the 6 cylinder version. These parts and instructions should compatible between all MB platforms that use these two engines.

I got new MB camshaft solenoid magnets from FCPEuro for about $25 each. The Solenoid Magnet replacement is part# A2720510177. (See Picture) Evidently, this is an upgrade part from original A2720510 0 77 which proves to be a bit wonky over time.
 

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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Location

Attached is the EPC diagram of where these components are located. Also attached is a pdf pic of the front of the engine cylinder heads of where the solenoids/magnets are with a clean / new assembly.

These magnets (and the sensors, if necessary) are easier to replace on the Bank 1 (passenger side). However, to get to the three torx bolts and replace these solenoid magnets on the Driver’s side, you may have to remove the oil cooler (for one solenoid magnet) and remove the PS fluid reservoir (for the other solenoid magnet). (See picture of Bank 2 locations) For now, I replaced both the solenoid magnets on the passenger side, because they are easily accessible and that’s the side giving me the CEL.
 

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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Discussion Starter #4
Tools and supplies

A list of tools / supplies that should be on hand if you tackle this DIY.

E8 (external torx socket)
Ratchet with extensions
Small flat bladed Screwdriver,
Tool pickup magnet
Magnetic tray to hold screws and bolts
8mm socket with ratchet to remove the bottom engine air dams
Thread locker - Locktite Blue
Nitrile gloves
Lamp
 

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Current 2017 GLE350, 2007 S550, 2002 S430, 1998 ML320 Deceased 74 240D, 92 400E, 97 E420, 13 GLK350
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Removal and Reinstallation

To get to the three T8 torx bolts in the intake solenoid on the Bank 1, you will first have to remove at least 2 of the bolts for the bracket that holds the MOT and front engine cover. On the exhaust side, remove the one bolt holding the engine oil dipstick bracket and secure the dipstick tube to the side. Taking these steps will allow straight access to the three T8 torx bolts on each of the solenoid magnets.

Then remove the 3 bolts in each solenoid with an E8 external torx socket, using the magnet tool to keep from dropping the bolts. [If a bolt drops, you will have to remove the under engine plastic covers to fish out the dropped item.]

Pull the solenoid magnet straight out from the engine (may need to start with a pry using a screwdriver). Pull the solenoid out. (Pic) Then use the flat end of the screw driver to push up the grey electrical locking tab about 3 mm. (Pic) Next, place the flat end of the screw driver between the solenoid electrical socket and the wiring harness to release the final catch on the plug. (Pic) Pull apart.

Use a bit of engine oil on the o-ring of the new solenoid. Reattached the electrical connector. Push down on the grey locking tab for the connector. Reset the solenoid into the engine head.

Place a small amount of threadlocker on the torx bolts and reinstall each bolt by starting / holding with the magnet tool. (pic) I did not know the torque value so wrench tighten snugly - letting the thread locker do its thing. Restore the brackets that were previously removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Post Maintenance test and CEL reset

STAR Diagnostic Post replacement – or Reset CEL with an OBD2 scanner.

Alternatively, drive vehicle in 2nd gear with cold engine. Increase / reduce speed by 40%.

Cheers
 

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13 GLK350, 02 325, 94 sonoma, 12 RAM, 01 WS6
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2,051 Posts
good DIY.

but you dont need to remove cooler or reservoir to replace the ones on drivers side. its tricky but I replace them without removing said parts. a 1/4 wrench comes in very handy to remove the bolts as necessary.
 

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2006 E350 Wagon
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28 Posts
good DIY.

but you dont need to remove cooler or reservoir to replace the ones on drivers side. its tricky but I replace them without removing said parts. a 1/4 wrench comes in very handy to remove the bolts as necessary.
Best tip ever on the 1/4 inch wrench! It allowed me to complete the work without removing the oil cooler or the power steering tank. I did find that removing the PS cap though helped with clearance and allows the use of E8 on the bottom bolt of the right solenoid (looking at the engine from the work).
 

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2006 E350 Wagon
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28 Posts
good DIY.

but you dont need to remove cooler or reservoir to replace the ones on drivers side. its tricky but I replace them without removing said parts. a 1/4 wrench comes in very handy to remove the bolts as necessary.
Best tip ever on the 1/4 inch wrench! It allowed me to complete the work without removing the oil cooler or the power steering tank. I did find that removing the PS cap though helped with clearance and allows the use of E8 on the rightmost bolt of the right solenoid (looking at the engine from the work).
 

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1984 300D Turbo, 2009 GL320
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246 Posts
Just did this job (mostly). As people have said, bank 1 (passenger side in North America) is pretty easy. I only had to remove the wire connectors and use a small socket wrench with E8 socket and a short extension. A Gearwrench E8 is handy too.

The driver's side was another story. My E8 Gearwrench got trapped between the screw and the oil cooler while trying to remove the lower screw on the intake. That got a bit ugly until I managed to get it out.

The tip from Vortecpwr to use a 1/4" wrench is essential if you don't want to remove both the power steering reservoir and oil cooler. It grabs the E8 screws very well and fits where sockets and larger wrenches won't. I had to remove the camshaft position sensor to have room to slide the solenoid out.

After studying the lower screw on the exhaust side bank 2 camshaft solenoid I couldn't see a way to get it out without removing the PS reservoir. I'd like to see a DIY explaining how that's done!

So I've replaced 3 of the 4 camshaft solenoids and my CEL is cleared. If the last one goes bad it would be worth paying a tech unless someone has a trick to share.
 

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2011 S550
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2011 s550 problem

Hi all, I’m new to this site, please bare with me. I just bought my 2nd Benz, have two now. Anyway, loving my 2011 s550, yesterday I backed into my parking spot, pushed keyless go button to shutdown (finger might have grazed the button), get out of car, hear a strange noise, thought it was a squeaky pulley on a nearby air handling unit but no, it was my car, the noise slowed to a halt when I saw smoke coming from engine compartment, opened hood no flames, acrid smell seemed to have ended although still lingers in garage. Tried to restart car, dash lights up, engine temp gauge shows normal, will not start, not even trying, no clicking....help. Will tow to my mechanic tomorrow, Sunday today, frustrating not knowing. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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2013 S550
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Can't say what this was with any certainty - something clearly burned up, but whether it was a belt or an electrical components, we couldn't say. We await your feedback!
 

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2005 E320 CDI, 2016 E250
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Just did 3 out of the 4 this past weekend. I am unsure how everyone else did the one behind the PS res. I got the bolts out...but the unit is too thick to slide out without moving the res. I ended up reinstalling it until I got an update on how to remove it. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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2005 E320 CDI, 2016 E250
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Please let us know what problem you are addressing!
The problem I am addressing is getting the sensor that is too thick from behind the PS res without removing the res.
 

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'71 Pinto
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Has anyone figured out how to remove the one behind the PS fluid reservoir WITHOUT removing the reservoir?

I need to get that one out but from what I'm reading here, everyone has unbolted the sensor but there is not enough clearance to remove it as it hits the reservoir.

The reservoir looks complex to remove.. that clip underneath that holds it in looks hard to remove, and even more difficult to try and reinstall without dropping it!
 

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2005 E320 CDI, 2016 E250
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I ended up taking my to a mechanic to get it done. Back in this thread because I am getting P0015 again after replacing all magnets on the motor with new items in Feb last year.
 

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2005 E320 CDI, 2016 E250
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Found I got a bad OEM sensor from the dealer. Swapped and it was fine. Unfortunately the car was totaled 48 hours later.
 
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