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1998 SLK 230
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the complex code scanners can read other systems like the transmission, airbag, abs, and so on. it wont give much more info than the basic OBD2 scan tool for codes.

with the car not starting now is it still cranking but not firing?

given the age of the car the replacing the crankshaft sensor wouldn't hurt, but my bet still is the K40. if you have the time touch up all joints on it.

with my K40 i did try repairing it and it intermittently kept playing up. it wasn't worth it getting stranded somewhere so i just bought a new one, wasn't that expensive.
 

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2001 SLK230
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Subby- Thanks for explaining the $400 Mercedes scanner, before i wasted money on it! :beerchugr:

--- 1) Where is the crankshaft position sensor located anyway, on 2001 SLK? :dunno:
--- 2) What website do you use to find location of parts?
--- Do the Facelift SLK's have a different location than this? (i see a sensor there, but the wire is coming out of the side, not the "top" as in the photo)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-SLK230/21-ENGINE-Crankshaft_Positioning_Sensor_Replacement

However, this diagram shows a similar location, just with the wire coming out of the sensor's "side":
(hmmm, so maybe on the Facelift SLK's-- they just made the wire a "right angle", but the Sensor and Location remained the same)
Mercedes Benz Workshop Manuals > SLK 230 (170.449) L4-2.3L SC (111.983) (2001) > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Crank

Yeh, i agree and don't *think* the culprit is the "crankshaft position sensor", but this post is confusing me:
According to this post: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1263021-k40-relay-circuit-associated-11.html#post13185553
"If when trying to start the car the starter motor turns the engine over, but the car just won't start .... crank position sensor is the problem, not the K40"
"If when trying to start the car the starter motor is dead, the radiator fan is on full blow, and the temperature gauge shows cold .... K40 is the problem not the crank position sensor"
"Also, When the crank position sensor and the MAF failed, the check engine light came on and there were codes which helped identify the problem. When the K40 failed, there was no check engine light."


*Remember, i have no CheckEngineLight on, & my car cranks, but doesn't start. (when my battery is charged)

Update & Plans
i haven't been near my car for a few days.

I still have to charge the battery, it keeps dying in a few days (maybe a "parasitic draw" somewhere) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0#EricTheCarGuy

I didn't solder the *right* way: i used solder from a plumber/handyman friend, without Flux!
So i'm going to buy 60/40 Tin/Lead Rosin-Flux Solder, and re-do the solder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu3TYBs65FM#ChrisFix

I might just buy a new K40.
--- 3) Does anywhere have a K40 cheaper than Parts.com, $148+tax?? i think part # 1705450205

I'm going to borrow a "Fuel Pressure Sensor" to see if the fuel pump is sending fuel.

Last choice: i'll try to get under my car on the hill, to measure voltage :eek:

if i am getting "Fuel Pressure" to the engine, then i'll buy a "crankshaft position sensor"

Thanks again everybody, i appreciate any help :smile
 

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2001 SLK230
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Discussion Starter #23
Also, this might help with the diagnosis:

Remember, this problem started right after: my water pump was leaking, and car was overheating to 100 degrees
i replaced my waterpump. And now my car doesn't start.
So, possibly, the leaking/spraying water & overheating caused this "no firing" issue, that i have now

or maybe it's just a coincidence :confused:
 

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1998 SLK 230
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i would say thats just coincidence.

the crankshaft position sensor is located at the back of the engine where the transmission meets the engine. its on the side where the intake manifold is. the sensor location is same for all SLK230's but the plug on the sensor is different for pre and post face lift slk.

that price looks about right. if its purchased from a reputable site then they only stock genuine parts or parts made by good suppliers. probably can get it on ebay for less but un-branded and or copy part, cheaper yes but will it last... no.

parasitic draw is easy to test but it takes a bit of time.. from memory anything under 50mA is acceptable. you hook up a multi-meter in series to the -ve battery terminal, set it to Amps (set the scale to mA), note the reading. Open the fuse box in engine and slowly pull a fuse out note the reading, but it back in and keep going until you see it significantly drop.
 

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2001 SLK230
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Discussion Starter #25
my money is on a faulty K40 relay!
Update:_________________________
1) I got a new battery for free (warrantied it, since the old was kept dying)

2) I bought & installed a new K40-relay.

3) I used a fuel-pressure-tester, when cranking, and it still showed 0 PSI


Theories on possible culprits_________

1) The new K40 might be DOA. I bought it at FactoryMoparParts.com (and they have bad reviews)

2) Wires cut/melted somewhere

3) Bad Fuel Pump

Plans___________________________

1) Test the new K40-relay, in my friend's SLK (or test his K40-relay in mine)

2) Test Voltage at the Fuel Pump

Any questions/comments? :help:
 

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2001 SLK230
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Discussion Starter #26
Update_________________________________
1) i replaced the Fuel Pump.

2) i towed it to a shop, and they say it's a "Blown Head Gasket". with 75,35,35,35 PSI compression per cylinder.

So the car needs a new engine, apparently. :crying

Next Step_________________________

1a) Part out the car. Best way to do that?

1b) Or find a used engine, and fix it.


Any advice?______________________
I am in Los Angeles, in case anyone wants to buy this car, or help me fix it :smile
Thanks again for your help

2001 SLK 230
 
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