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Hi..

I have a 1999 C230 Kompressor. It started to shift poorly and then finally just stopped. I had a friend rebuild the transmission and it seems great BUT..

Every now and then it just either shifts out of gear completely or shifts strange. I was assured that transmission was done right and I believe my friend.

So I took out the Transmission control Module (passenger side foot panel) and took it out. It seemed to have some residue on it as if it had gotted damp or something.

The part number for the module is: 020 545 96 32

Does anyone have a decent used one? or does anyone know where i can send this one to be checked/upgraded?

Any suggestions?

[email protected]:surrender:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OHH... One other thing.

My cruise control engages but dis-engages on a downgrade. Someone told me that the cruise control is part of the ME CONTROL UNIT. And they gave me a part number.

What is an ME CONTROL UNIT? From what i can tell it is also part of the TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE.

Would replaceing this one module correct both of my issues? The part number I got from the local dealership for the ME CONTROL UNIT was 020 545 09 32

Suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[email protected] 1999 C230 Kompressor
 

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The problem with the trans control module is a fairly common one. Your trans connector leaked. The fluid "ran" up the harness to the module. Once that happens , the module is usually done . The harness also needs to be cleaned . The connecotrs need to be thoroughly cleaned with connecotr cleaner. This is not a 5 minute fix. Prices on the control varies by where you get them from but they do have to be oredered by VIN, so a used one probaly would not work. Just to give an idea on price, I sold one online a fews ago for 750$, but I know retail on it was about 1100$.
If you have any other ?'s let me know.
Shawn
Mercedes-Benz of Annapolis
www.getmercedesparts.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Shawn...

Thanks for the response. Is the transmission control module the same as the ME control unit? Would the transmission control module have anything to do with my cruise control dis-engageing on a down grade?

PS: I did find a used one with the exact same part number. So I think I might have lucked out.

BUT, I will clean the contacts. The mechanic did replace the plastic connector at the transmission... so I will do as you suggest and clean the contacts with electric contact cleaner at the harness that plugs into the control module.

If you can tell me what an 'ME control unit' is i would appreciate it. it seems to be just a different term used for the transmission control module.

Geo
 

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You have nothing to lose by opening up the tranny control module and cleaning it (along with the connector and the harness all the way back to the transmission connector which was just replaced). Some people have fixed their issues by doing this. Get a can or two of electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack and also at Pep Boys) and give it a try. We just discussed doing this here not too long ago, so you might search for the thread.
 

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That ME control unit you were talking about is known as the Motor Electronic control module, Which is the engine control unit. It is not part of the Electronic transmission control unit. As far as your problem with your trans i would also clean out the connector with electrical cleaner and see if that works. :)
 

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How would I access the TCM? I don't know where it is, but my experience is in engine repair with but also doing consumer electronics repair at work, so if someone can point me to the thing, I bet I can fix it. I've saved many circuit boards from liquid damage, insect damage, sand damage, you name it.

Hell if I can get some good instruction on finding it, I'll post a photographed step-by-step on how I repaired mine.

I have a 2000 C230, I'm guessing the TCM would be located in the same place as the OP's since we both run 722.6 transmissions. I'm a college student and I'm not working, so avoiding $750-1100 would be awesomeness defined.
 

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If memories serves me correct, The transmission control unit is locate at the passenger front floor board. Remove the floor mat then pull the carpet from the fire wall back and pull it toward the rear of the car. You should see the control unit. Its a thin control unit with two long connectors on it. Good luck. What code do you have it might be the conductor plate causing what ever problem you have. Which is located above the Valve body of the transmission but very simple to replace and not that expensive about $140. Im a master tech at Mercedes benz dealer let me know how it goes.
 

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If memories serves me correct, The transmission control unit is locate at the passenger front floor board. Remove the floor mat then pull the carpet from the fire wall back and pull it toward the rear of the car. You should see the control unit. Its a thin control unit with two long connectors on it. Good luck. What code do you have it might be the conductor plate causing what ever problem you have. Which is located above the Valve body of the transmission but very simple to replace and not that expensive about $140. Im a master tech at Mercedes benz dealer let me know how it goes.
I don't have a code- my car needs to idle for 3-4 minutes before I can drive it. It will drive if I take off sooner, but it won't shift out of 2nd (limp home mode when cold?). The quality of the shifting after warm-up is going down as well. I flushed the trans. 2k miles ago, which initially helped, but I think that it didn't care for the new fluid they issue, so I'm going to try to find some 722.6 next time I do that.... which will probably be soon since that flush was the car's first (@140k!!!!), so I'm sure there's still some filth working its way out.

I figure I should at least inspect the TCM for fluid creeping in, as was described earlier in the thread.

I'm in finals right now, but I'll go digging for the TCM next week, I can't wait. Is there any resetting of anything or programming that will need to be done before I reinstall?
 

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Well what it sounds like to me is your Conductor plate above your valve body. At the dealer we only replace the Electronic Transmission control unit if it has a fault for the control unit being defective. Most of the time what happens is when you have shifting problems (or limp home mode) its your input and output speed sensors shorting out in the conductor plate due to the clutch material in the fluid. The Conductor plate sits above your valve body and is usually the main cause of all shifting problems unless your clutches are slipping (you will defiantly know if your clutches are slipping). So you said that you didn't use MB approved trans fluid. I would start there for sure and get some new fluid and filter. As for the TCM you could inspect the connector for signs of fluid but I would bet you wont find anything wrong with it or find fluid. You will find fluid at the Trans round electrical connector on the transmission but don't be alarmed they all have fluid in them. You could just clean it out with electrical cleaner. If you have an external leak at the Trans connector on the transmission you could replace that. When replacing the module you would have to perform an initial start up procedure but since your not replacing it you don't have to do that. You could reset trans adaptions but you would need a SDS/DAS to do that. Good luck. Where in SD are you?
 

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Well what it sounds like to me is your Conductor plate above your valve body. At the dealer we only replace the Electronic Transmission control unit if it has a fault for the control unit being defective. Most of the time what happens is when you have shifting problems (or limp home mode) its your input and output speed sensors shorting out in the conductor plate due to the clutch material in the fluid. The Conductor plate sits above your valve body and is usually the main cause of all shifting problems unless your clutches are slipping (you will defiantly know if your clutches are slipping). So you said that you didn't use MB approved trans fluid. I would start there for sure and get some new fluid and filter. As for the TCM you could inspect the connector for signs of fluid but I would bet you wont find anything wrong with it or find fluid. You will find fluid at the Trans round electrical connector on the transmission but don't be alarmed they all have fluid in them. You could just clean it out with electrical cleaner. If you have an external leak at the Trans connector on the transmission you could replace that. When replacing the module you would have to perform an initial start up procedure but since your not replacing it you don't have to do that. You could reset trans adaptions but you would need a SDS/DAS to do that. Good luck. Where in SD are you?
Oh I used MB approved fluids, I was just smart about it and got them from Shell instead of MB :) MB says the 722.9 fluid can be used in the 722.6, but many people on this site have had issues with backward compatibility, and sought out the 722.6 fluid (236.something).

I suppose I'll check out the TCM for kicks over my winter break, and if it doesn't do the trick (it sounds like it probably isn't the culprit, but cheapest repair first, right?) I'll send it in- I'm presuming that the conductor plate isn't a DIY repair. The transmission does have a slight leak on the cooler line somewhere, and I figured that ties in to the temperature feature of my transmission problem (since it needs several minutes to warm up before being able to access 3rd and 4th gears).

I'm by Balboa Park, and my MB guy is down in Chula. Are you from the area?
 

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Okay, Well this is how it works you could use 722.9 trans fluid in 722.6 but you cant you use 722.6 fluid in the new 722.9 trans. MB doesn't even offer the old 722.6 trans fluid anymore since we could use 722.9 fluid in both. Actually the Module is not the cheapest repair since the module is around $1000.00, But if it is the problem you could get a used module with the correct part number from a junk yard or BBA reman. ABS, ecu's, throttle bodies, air mass meters, and catalytic converters (BBA Reman) but like I said before I doubt that's your problem. The Slight leak from your trans cooler lines won't have an effect on your trans and temp problem.

The Conductor plate is really not that difficult. All you need to do is
1-Remove the trans plug on the trans pan and drain the fluid
2-Remove the Electrical connector on the trans.
3-loosen the 7mm nut inside the center of the trans connector (round circle plug on the trans, Do So when engine and trans is cold)
4-Remove the 6 bolts on the trans pan and take of the pan.
5-Remove the trans filter by pulling it down
6-Remove 10 bolts on the valve body (there's 4 bolts on the rear and 6 bolts in the front of the valve body)
7-At this point the valve body will just drop down.
8-Remove 2 plastic covers to access the 6 solenoids
9-Remove all 6 solenoids using 30 torx (make sure you organize the solenoids to put it back in the same spot you took it out from.
10-Now the Conductor plate will come off just release to plastic tabs and pull strait up.
11-Install the new conductor plate in reverse order.
12-When reinstall the valve body back in the transmission make sure you guided the parking paw in the slot. Or it won't come out of park
13-Add 3 1/4 quarts and then start the car and check the trans fluid with the MB trans dip stick. The magic number of quarts is 3 1/2 total.

That's it and your done, Yeah I'm from the area. I live in Oceanside and work in La Jolla. I'm a technician at Heinz Gietz Mercedes Benz of La Jolla

Good luck.
 

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Okay, Well this is how it works you could use 722.9 trans fluid in 722.6 but you cant you use 722.6 fluid in the new 722.9 trans. MB doesn't even offer the old 722.6 trans fluid anymore since we could use 722.9 fluid in both. Actually the Module is not the cheapest repair since the module is around $1000.00, But if it is the problem you could get a used module with the correct part number from a junk yard or BBA reman. ABS, ecu's, throttle bodies, air mass meters, and catalytic converters (BBA Reman) but like I said before I doubt that's your problem. The Slight leak from your trans cooler lines won't have an effect on your trans and temp problem.

The Conductor plate is really not that difficult. All you need to do is
1-Remove the trans plug on the trans pan and drain the fluid
2-Remove the Electrical connector on the trans.
3-loosen the 7mm nut inside the center of the trans connector (round circle plug on the trans, Do So when engine and trans is cold)
4-Remove the 6 bolts on the trans pan and take of the pan.
5-Remove the trans filter by pulling it down
6-Remove 10 bolts on the valve body (there's 4 bolts on the rear and 6 bolts in the front of the valve body)
7-At this point the valve body will just drop down.
8-Remove 2 plastic covers to access the 6 solenoids
9-Remove all 6 solenoids using 30 torx (make sure you organize the solenoids to put it back in the same spot you took it out from.
10-Now the Conductor plate will come off just release to plastic tabs and pull strait up.
11-Install the new conductor plate in reverse order.
12-When reinstall the valve body back in the transmission make sure you guided the parking paw in the slot. Or it won't come out of park
13-Add 3 1/4 quarts and then start the car and check the trans fluid with the MB trans dip stick. The magic number of quarts is 3 1/2 total.

That's it and your done, Yeah I'm from the area. I live in Oceanside and work in La Jolla. I'm a technician at Heinz Gietz Mercedes Benz of La Jolla

Good luck.
WOW thanks for all of that! Let me ask you a few questions: :bowdown:

#3 The trans connector to which you refer, is that the electrical connector from #2?

#6 As I've done the fluid and filter swap before, is the valve body what I'm looking at when I remove the trans. filter?

#10 How will I know if the conductor plate is bad, will it be broken, burned or dirty?

Also, would the conductor plate be on the top side of the removed valve body, as shown in Fig. 17? Judging by Fig. 58, it looks like I should probably be replacing those solenoid O-rings too, right?

Thanks for all of your help, :thumbsup: I so cannot afford vehicle repairs right now.
 

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C230 transmission-control-module

Now after replacing the electric conductor plate the transmission control module still has the annoying 715 error code. How do I go about resetting it? Or how far can I drive in the limp mode to have it reset?

Thanks,Stan.

Took it to the local dealer, and had it reset for $70. Test drove it last night and all is well.
 

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Well what it sounds like to me is your Conductor plate above your valve body. At the dealer we only replace the Electronic Transmission control unit if it has a fault for the control unit being defective. Most of the time what happens is when you have shifting problems (or limp home mode) its your input and output speed sensors shorting out in the conductor plate due to the clutch material in the fluid. The Conductor plate sits above your valve body and is usually the main cause of all shifting problems unless your clutches are slipping (you will defiantly know if your clutches are slipping). So you said that you didn't use MB approved trans fluid. I would start there for sure and get some new fluid and filter. As for the TCM you could inspect the connector for signs of fluid but I would bet you wont find anything wrong with it or find fluid. You will find fluid at the Trans round electrical connector on the transmission but don't be alarmed they all have fluid in them. You could just clean it out with electrical cleaner. If you have an external leak at the Trans connector on the transmission you could replace that. When replacing the module you would have to perform an initial start up procedure but since your not replacing it you don't have to do that. You could reset trans adaptions but you would need a SDS/DAS to do that. Good luck. Where in SD are you?
Ok Guys sounds like I have the same problem. My daughter actually stopped by autozone to have a headlight bulb replaced and within thirty minutes she was calling me screaming that she couldn't drive faster then 35 mph and that the car was making a loud screaming noise.

The repair folks in raleigh, nc wanted to charge me $6000 for a new transmission. So I drove of from columbia and purchased an odb scanner from Walmart and got a P0715 so I had the car towed to columbia and found this forum.

So since having the car towed to columbia, I've replaced the 13-pin connector because I found the atf, purchased the at dip stick off amazon $29.99, purchased and replaced the conductor plate assembly $134.95, and also purchased a transmission control module, the first one came off of a 1997 mercedes c280 it didn't work I wa told I need a tcm with the same part number so I purchased another, here's my original part number:

A 020 545 96 32 EGS51 Q01
SIEMENS 5WK33896 98W28
1044131 GS0006

So I purchased a tcm with the exact same part number. Installed it in the car cleared the codes with my scanner. prior I had all of the codes relating to the solenoids:

P0753
P0743
P0763
P0750
P0748
P0715

After clearing the codes and taking a test drive I can't go faster than 35 mph but don't have that loud whining noise. The car appears to be stuck in limp home mode. I've tried the steps to reset the tcm.

turn the car switch to on with the lights on but do not start the car
press the accelerator to the floor for 10-20 seconds
turn the switch off, slowly release the accelerator
wait two minutes

and then start the car and drive.

Car still stuck in limp home mode.

I called the local dealer today, and they flat out told me the a used tcm will not work, and that a new one must be purchased and programmed to the car.

I know that can't be true so many of you have been able to do this without purchasing a new tcm.

Help!

Is there anyone that can help me, or give me instructions on getting this car out of limp home mode?

Thanks in advance,

DKColumbia
 

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2002 tranny conrol problems

someone please help me i have c320 trans problems,car wont shift out of 1st gear. i had this problem last year and the mech said he changed solenoid shifter, and it was fine for about a year. now it has started agin this time another mechanic said it was trans control module. im a little shaky about his diagnosis, the car only has 80k miles on it.Anybody have any advice on what a layperson can check or try to solve the issue.
 

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Hi i am in LA area, just brought a 2006 Mercedes c 230 sport. the car runs good BUT some times the car will get stuck in 4 or 5th gear and at 60 MPH the rpm is at 3500. usually its at 2000 rpm in 7th gear. i pull over and restart the car it works fine. any Idea what i need to do.
 

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  • 2002 tranny conrol problems

    someone please help me i have c320 trans problems,car wont shift out of 1st gear. i had this problem last year and the mech said he changed solenoid shifter, and it was fine for about a year. now it has started agin this time another mechanic said it was trans control module. im a little shaky about his diagnosis, the car only has 80k miles on it.Anybody have any advice on what a layperson can check or try to solve the issue.
    Hello, did you ever get it fixed? If so, what did you do? I am having the same problem right now.
 

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  • Hello, did you ever get it fixed? If so, what did you do? I am having the same problem right now.
Lanabenz,

Welcome. :)

Have you a scanner that can read any saved codes on your TCU?
Vehicle specs?
 
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