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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, got a strange problem that appeared last night.
i insert the key into the swith, the wheel lock unlocked and every thing is ok, untill i turn the key to the starter - and there is no starter...

then, if i close and open the car via the alarm, play with the key and turn it couple of times, then it starts, but with a long starter..(about 3 seconds).

anyone has an idia? thanks.
p.s, sorry for my lame english.
 

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CURRENT: 2011 SL550 FORMER: C300, ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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I'd start by checking the vehicle battery - at least 12.5v at rest, and no less than 11v with the starter running, then about 14v with the engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hi, thank you for youre reply.
i checked the battery and the charging, and it is all OK. (plus the battery is new)

Could it be a problem with my key? like the immobilizer or something?
becuse today i had the same problem, then i took the key out, hit it on the dashboard and tried again - it worked!

i did it 3 times already, and it worked! :D:confused:
 

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2004 CLK 240 Coupe
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Could it be a problem with my key? like the immobilizer or something?
I don't think that the key is the problem here. Have you tried the spare?

1. You put the key into position 0. Steering lock unlocks. That proves IR handshake circuits in the car & key are OK.
2. You turn the key to position 1, and ignition is on. That proves Drive authorization is OK.
3. You turn the key to position 2, and diagnostic lights come on.
4. You turn the key to position 3 (START) - and nothing...

You should hear clicks from the Starter relay (N10/1 kS), Circuit 15 relay (N10/1 kP), and also the starter solenoid on the starter.

If no clicks are heard, maybe either relay kS or kP is faulty. Located in the front SAM fuse & relay box, located in the left engine bay.
It also could be a problem in the EIS (ignition switch) if it has a fault on position 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't think that the key is the problem here. Have you tried the spare?

1. You put the key into position 0. Steering lock unlocks. That proves IR handshake circuits in the car & key are OK.
2. You turn the key to position 1, and ignition is on. That proves Drive authorization is OK.
3. You turn the key to position 2, and diagnostic lights come on.
4. You turn the key to position 3 (START) - and nothing...

You should hear clicks from the Starter relay (N10/1 kS), Circuit 15 relay (N10/1 kP), and also the starter solenoid on the starter.

If no clicks are heard, maybe either relay kS or kP is faulty. Located in the front SAM fuse & relay box, located in the left engine bay.
It also could be a problem in the EIS (ignition switch) if it has a fault on position 3.
You right!
I do hear those clicks! and while there is clicks the diagnostic lights flash sometimes. So what then the problem is?

Just to be cleare, that strange problem appeares from time to time, it is not conssistent.
 

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You right!
I do hear those clicks! and while there is clicks the diagnostic lights flash sometimes. So what then the problem is?
First - a correction to my previous post. The relay references I stated are not for your C 220 CDI model. Starter cct 50 relay should be N10/1 kM.

Just because a relay clicks, it may not be OK - the output contacts might be burned out, or unreliable. So I would replace the relay. (experts will remove the outer can and clean up the contacts)

If the start relay is not the answer, at this stage, normally somebody gets under the car with a testmeter to check (when the ignition key is turned to the start position) if battery voltage is reaching the starter unit;

a) terminal 50: +12v dc, only when the starter relay operates. (thinner wire)
b) terminal 30: +12v dc, all the time. (thick wire)

Also check that the starter earth is good. If all the electrics are OK, maybe the starter mechanism is sometimes getting jammed, or is worn out. If jammed, this might account for your diagnostic lights flashing, as the battery is loaded.

Finally - does your model have ECO start/stop (CODE B03)? That could introduce some interesting faults. I suspect that in year 2005 this was not available.
 

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87 W124 250D 465t km WWO running everyday / W201 300TD 227t km / 89 W124 250D 360tkm
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starter motor fuse

check your starter motor fuse under bonnet / standard is 15a,2005 should have special looking fuse/, we have 2 w203 that changing that fuse and cleaning contacts resolved starting issues, also check starter motor if it isnt contaminated with diesel from leaking o rings on cdi
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
WELL, AFTER I DID ALL THE CHECKS,
the problem now ESCALATED... :(

the battary is new and good, the starter is clean and so as the connections...
the fuse is ok.

now, the problem is like this:
1) when i insert the key into the switch and start immidiatly without any delay and waiting to the light to go off, there is a starter. now, the starter is very long, and somtimes i need to try for 2-3 times to start, with long long starter... but sometimes, i just spray ETHER to the air intake and it starts.... usually, when the car is not cold but is resting for hour to 3-4 hours, i get this problem. but again, that problem accures without any exact pattern.
2) when i insert the key into the swtich, and wat for 5 seconds, than there is no starter at all!

what the hell is going on?!
 

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No start on 2004 C220, battery OK, power OK

Hi Kirilgit

How did you get on with your engine starting problems last year - any resolution?

I've a C220 2004 car that has suddenly started playing up. I turn the ignition to position 3 and nothing happens - no click click or noises of any description - yet the other electrics work and dash light images come on as the key is turned from 0 to 1 to 2.

Very frustrating!! Had to get the car towed - and the mechanic said it was a relay that caused the issue. This has since been replaced but 5 days later and the car is doing the same thing.

If I have the patience (very little alternative when the car won't move!) to leave the key at position 2 for 5 minutes - and then turn it to position 3 - I hear a slight whirring sound coming from the passenger side of the bonnet - and the car then starts.

But I'm really concerned. I obviously don't want to have to pay towing costs if the engine won't start. And - if it's possibly something very serious and expensive - I may need to take a view on whether to repair it at all on a 2004 car.

Any advice - based on your experience - or your contributors - would be really helpful. Thanks
 

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I'd guess a bad CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Next time it won't start, try pouring cold water on the CPS and if that helps, or shortens the wait, then that's it.
 

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Hi
I have a w203 cdi diesel auto , won't start after a 20 minute journey , have to wait half hour and then it starts fine ,the engine cranks over but it won't start. Any ideas
Eddie
I'd guess a bad CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Next time it won't start, try pouring cold water on the CPS and if that helps, or shortens the wait, then that's it.
Thanks rudeney
Can you give me some idea where about its located
 

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It's on the back of the engine, on the bell housing. Here's a photo of it on the M272 engine. It will be in a similar location on yours.

 

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Hello, got a strange problem that appeared last night.
i insert the key into the swith, the wheel lock unlocked and every thing is ok, untill i turn the key to the starter - and there is no starter...

then, if i close and open the car via the alarm, play with the key and turn it couple of times, then it starts, but with a long starter..(about 3 seconds).

anyone has an idia? thanks.
p.s, sorry for my lame english.
Hi, I have the same problem, if you have the chance, when you turn the key in the position to light up the dashboard lights, wait for atleast 10 seconds, and the start, do this every time. It worked for me and others that tried.
 

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No start on 2004 C220, battery OK, power OK

Hi Kirilgit

How did you get on with your engine starting problems last year - any resolution?

I've a C220 2004 car that has suddenly started playing up. I turn the ignition to position 3 and nothing happens - no click click or noises of any description - yet the other electrics work and dash light images come on as the key is turned from 0 to 1 to 2.

Very frustrating!! Had to get the car towed - and the mechanic said it was a relay that caused the issue. This has since been replaced but 5 days later and the car is doing the same thing.

If I have the patience (very little alternative when the car won't move!) to leave the key at position 2 for 5 minutes - and then turn it to position 3 - I hear a slight whirring sound coming from the passenger side of the bonnet - and the car then starts.

But I'm really concerned. I obviously don't want to have to pay towing costs if the engine won't start. And - if it's possibly something very serious and expensive - I may need to take a view on whether to repair it at all on a 2004 car.

Any advice - based on your experience - or your contributors - would be really helpful. Thanks
Hi, I have the same problem, if you have the chance, when you turn the key in the position to light up the dashboard lights, wait for atleast 10 seconds, and then start, do this every time. It worked for me and others that tried.
 

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You right!
I do hear those clicks! and while there is clicks the diagnostic lights flash sometimes. So what then the problem is?

Just to be cleare, that strange problem appeares from time to time, it is not conssistent.
Hi, I have the same problem, if you have the chance, when you turn the key in the position to light up the dashboard lights, wait for atleast 10 seconds, and then start, do this every time. It worked for me and others that tried.
 
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