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'87 Mercedes-Benz 280GE
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey again. I also noticed this problem with my car. When my wheels are straight and i'm driving just straight, my steering wheel is in this position [see attached]. Why is that? Thanks.
 

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2000 C230 Kompressor Special Edition
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1,173 Posts
Alignment shop is able to fix it

If you can remove your steering wheel you can line it back up.

1) Unplug battery or you will get a SRS light that you can't turn off without paying a dealer $$$.

2) Torx screwdriver to unscrew airbag from rear of steering wheel. Some are T30, don't know about yours.

3) 10mm hex bit holds on the steering wheel. 10mm on some, don't know for sure about yours. Unbolt with a breaker bar. Have a strong friend hold the wheel or the wheel lock might break. If you don't have a breaker bar, a long ratchet should work. Or a torque wrench.

4) To remove a steering wheel, make sure the steering wheel nut is about halfway in, because it will take a lot of straight pulling force to get it to come off the spline. The bolt will keep it from smacking into your face or chest.

5) Line it up and re-install. Wheel bolt torque is 60 ft/lbs. Use a drop of loctite. Don't forget to plug in the airbag, horn, and other buttons. Reconnect battery.

6) A drop of white-out or nail polish will help you remember the exact wheel position it was in at first.
 

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'87 Mercedes-Benz 280GE
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your post. Me and my friend we couldn't unscrew the big bolt with a ratchet. Man, i was red, literally. This thing doesn't move. Any ideas?
 

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2010 C200 CGI /W203/SLK230/W202/230E/280SE
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3,301 Posts
Alignment would be a better route? - There must be a reason why it is out of whack assuming the st/wheel is in the original position

Oberoi
 

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'87 Mercedes-Benz 280GE
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Alignment would be a better route? - There must be a reason why it is out of whack assuming the st/wheel is in the original position

Oberoi
Actually this reminds me that after i got the airbag out it, i saw the original stickers written on deutsch inside and around the nut, everything looked like brand new, not a single speck of dust.
What alignment could be the problem, alingment of the front wheels?
 

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2010 C200 CGI /W203/SLK230/W202/230E/280SE
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3,301 Posts
What alignment could be the problem, alingment of the front wheels?
Yep, you may have bumped a kerb and put it out of whack - even more important than the steering wheel position is that your front tyres may be wearing unevenly as a result so the cost of a simple alignment/toe in/out check would be worth while.

Oberoi
 

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'87 Mercedes-Benz 280GE
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yep, you may have bumped a kerb and put it out of whack - even more important than the steering wheel position is that your front tyres may be wearing unevenly as a result so the cost of a simple alignment/toe in/out check would be worth while.

Oberoi
Thanks to yall. I will get it checked out and I will post.
 

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'87 Mercedes-Benz 280GE
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Got an alingment job done, 10 minutes of work and a happy straight steering wheel. Thanks.
 

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1995 C220
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2,800 Posts
Alignment shop is able to fix it

If you can remove your steering wheel you can line it back up.

1) Unplug battery or you will get a SRS light that you can't turn off without paying a dealer $$$.

2) Torx screwdriver to unscrew airbag from rear of steering wheel. Some are T30, don't know about yours.

3) 10mm hex bit holds on the steering wheel. 10mm on some, don't know for sure about yours. Unbolt with a breaker bar. Have a strong friend hold the wheel or the wheel lock might break. If you don't have a breaker bar, a long ratchet should work. Or a torque wrench.

4) To remove a steering wheel, make sure the steering wheel nut is about halfway in, because it will take a lot of straight pulling force to get it to come off the spline. The bolt will keep it from smacking into your face or chest.

5) Line it up and re-install. Wheel bolt torque is 60 ft/lbs. Use a drop of loctite. Don't forget to plug in the airbag, horn, and other buttons. Reconnect battery.

6) A drop of white-out or nail polish will help you remember the exact wheel position it was in at first.
You sure? I thought they had a fat spline in one spot so they only go on in one spot. Nevermind your right. I remember running into that when I had to take my wheel off. I got it off center and had to reposition it. My bad.

Either way, I agree. Its a sign that your toe is off, which is a simple fix if thats all it is, but an alignment will correct it. Ask for a printout when they do it so you can look at it yourself and see if castor/camber is off as well. An alignment should include fixing all those things, not just toe, but around here, people try to get away with just setting the toe and sending you out the door.
 

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'87 Mercedes-Benz 280GE
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Discussion Starter #11
You sure? I thought they had a fat spline in one spot so they only go on in one spot.

Either way, I agree. Its a sign that your toe is off, which is a simple fix if thats all it is, but an alignment will correct it. Ask for a printout when they do it so you can look at it yourself and see if castor/camber is off as well. An alignment should include fixing all those things, not just toe, but around here, people try to get away with just setting the toe and sending you out the door.
They said something was opened at 8mm, i'm not sure what was that.
 

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Mercedes C180 95'
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20 Posts
Here is a result of my recent C180 wheel aligment. My steering was half as bad as yours, though my steering wheel is still dead straight.

They performed a 4 wheel laser aligment (only the front adjusted), then they use the factory setting on data file and use it for adjustment. According to the mechanic, Camber is not adjustable for this Mercedes w202. Hope than helps. The aligment solve 80% of problem and rotation solve another 15%. I am now 95% good.

 

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1995 C220
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2,800 Posts
Here is a result of my recent C180 wheel aligment. My steering was half as bad as yours, though my steering wheel is still dead straight.

They performed a 4 wheel laser aligment (only the front adjusted), then they use the factory setting on data file and use it for adjustment. According to the mechanic, Camber is not adjustable for this Mercedes w202. Hope than helps. The aligment solve 80% of problem and rotation solve another 15%. I am now 95% good.

This is the printout I was talking about you should get when you have an alignment done, and as you can see, this is why I say always get one. It shows that they just set the toe and nothing else.

The camber IS adjustable, it requires them to pick up the phone and order a set of eccentric bolts so you move it in the slots. They chose not to do this for whatever reason. You can buy these kits from Mercedes, not sure if Oreillys, etc. carry them but my car has a set of them in it; necessary if you replace your front bushings with polys.

As you can see from the sheet, your camber should be zero. The tolerance is 20' on either side of that, and yours is a full 1 degree 30' out, which is over 6 times past the tolerance. That will definitely wear your tires out, and you'll never know its out cuz it will track straight as an arrow, while it wears out the inside edge of your tires.

This is what frustrates me about alignment guys, its hard to find one that will tell it to you straight.
 

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Mercedes C180 95'
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20 Posts
According to most tech guy, if your are having a stock w202, chances are you are having the non-adjustable pivot/camber bolt on your w202. Probably that's why the mechanic said no camber adjustment can be done.

Unless you get the oem upgrade done which at the end of the day will give you very little adjustment anyway.

If anyone want to lookup the adjustable bolt, part # is 202 330 01 18

Luckily, I am only -1'10 and -1'35. Some people have nearly -1'80+ off. My last set of Michelin XM1 lasted over 45,000km without inner side wear out. I am pretty happy with that, but the strange size of stock rims makes the tyres expensive to buy. 185/65/R15
 
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