Actually this reminds me that after i got the airbag out it, i saw the original stickers written on deutsch inside and around the nut, everything looked like brand new, not a single speck of dust.Alignment would be a better route? - There must be a reason why it is out of whack assuming the st/wheel is in the original position
Yep, you may have bumped a kerb and put it out of whack - even more important than the steering wheel position is that your front tyres may be wearing unevenly as a result so the cost of a simple alignment/toe in/out check would be worth while.What alignment could be the problem, alingment of the front wheels?
Thanks to yall. I will get it checked out and I will post.Yep, you may have bumped a kerb and put it out of whack - even more important than the steering wheel position is that your front tyres may be wearing unevenly as a result so the cost of a simple alignment/toe in/out check would be worth while.
You sure? I thought they had a fat spline in one spot so they only go on in one spot. Nevermind your right. I remember running into that when I had to take my wheel off. I got it off center and had to reposition it. My bad.Alignment shop is able to fix it
If you can remove your steering wheel you can line it back up.
1) Unplug battery or you will get a SRS light that you can't turn off without paying a dealer $$$.
2) Torx screwdriver to unscrew airbag from rear of steering wheel. Some are T30, don't know about yours.
3) 10mm hex bit holds on the steering wheel. 10mm on some, don't know for sure about yours. Unbolt with a breaker bar. Have a strong friend hold the wheel or the wheel lock might break. If you don't have a breaker bar, a long ratchet should work. Or a torque wrench.
4) To remove a steering wheel, make sure the steering wheel nut is about halfway in, because it will take a lot of straight pulling force to get it to come off the spline. The bolt will keep it from smacking into your face or chest.
5) Line it up and re-install. Wheel bolt torque is 60 ft/lbs. Use a drop of loctite. Don't forget to plug in the airbag, horn, and other buttons. Reconnect battery.
6) A drop of white-out or nail polish will help you remember the exact wheel position it was in at first.
They said something was opened at 8mm, i'm not sure what was that.You sure? I thought they had a fat spline in one spot so they only go on in one spot.
Either way, I agree. Its a sign that your toe is off, which is a simple fix if thats all it is, but an alignment will correct it. Ask for a printout when they do it so you can look at it yourself and see if castor/camber is off as well. An alignment should include fixing all those things, not just toe, but around here, people try to get away with just setting the toe and sending you out the door.
This is the printout I was talking about you should get when you have an alignment done, and as you can see, this is why I say always get one. It shows that they just set the toe and nothing else.Here is a result of my recent C180 wheel aligment. My steering was half as bad as yours, though my steering wheel is still dead straight.
They performed a 4 wheel laser aligment (only the front adjusted), then they use the factory setting on data file and use it for adjustment. According to the mechanic, Camber is not adjustable for this Mercedes w202. Hope than helps. The aligment solve 80% of problem and rotation solve another 15%. I am now 95% good.