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2007 E63 AMG
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18 Posts
I just resoldered with new. When you're done and the motor is reassembled, its worth just checking for continuity at the two terminals, and once you've put the motor back in, start the engine to check the lights are off before you put the washer reservoir back in.

If all OK, you can be smug with the fact you've just saved probably $2k in repairs at the dealers, I was even able to go out on the local roads which were icy and 'test' the abs was functioning OK, which it was!

Good luck!
 

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2000 ML320, 2007 E350 4Matic
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6 Posts
3 lights

Ok looks like I have a similar issue on the famous 3 lights. I did go to Autozone today to see if a code was present but nothing. The lights come on a few seconds after start up. I was going to order the new brushes but not sure how many I need?

I've done the EGR cleaning as well as the fuel pump/line upgrade myself but so hopefully I can so this? Even though I've read through these very helpful posts, I'm still unsure about how to replace the actual brushes without soldering.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Outstanding Contributor
02 ML320 06 ML500
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17,266 Posts
Ok looks like I have a similar issue on the famous 3 lights. I did go to Autozone today to see if a code was present but nothing. The lights come on a few seconds after start up. I was going to order the new brushes but not sure how many I need?

I've done the EGR cleaning as well as the fuel pump/line upgrade myself but so hopefully I can so this? Even though I've read through these very helpful posts, I'm still unsure about how to replace the actual brushes without soldering.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Autozone uses the most basic code reader. They will only be able to pull engine codes which trigger the CEL. What you need to do is find someone with a professional grade scanner or a scanner that can scan the ABS, etc.

Look at the first sentence is post #41.
 

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Mercedes Benz ML350 MY 2008
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128 Posts
I just resoldered with new. When you're done and the motor is reassembled, its worth just checking for continuity at the two terminals, and once you've put the motor back in, start the engine to check the lights are off before you put the washer reservoir back in.

If all OK, you can be smug with the fact you've just saved probably $2k in repairs at the dealers, I was even able to go out on the local roads which were icy and 'test' the abs was functioning OK, which it was!

Good luck!
I have been driving with ABS-ETS-BAS lights for a while but the issue is finally resolved. The 2 carbon brushes for the motor were all worn out at 173K mileage. Replaced with new brushes from Back- And Side-Shunted Brushes (credits to hilarushi !) and resoldered to resolve issue. The task requires alot of patience and I did not rush anything because I had more time than money to replace the whole part with new. The cost of parts was $15 (2 brushes plus shipping & handling).

It's been more than 100 miles after the fix and the lights are still off, what a relief to see that I have not spent a dime to the dealership on this

Long live the forum :)

That's all I wanted to say... thank you guys !!!
 

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2001 MB ML320
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8 Posts
I have been driving with ABS-ETS-BAS lights for a while but the issue is finally resolved. The 2 carbon brushes for the motor were all worn out at 173K mileage. Replaced with new brushes from Back- And Side-Shunted Brushes (credits to hilarushi !) and resoldered to resolve issue. The task requires alot of patience and I did not rush anything because I had more time than money to replace the whole part with new. The cost of parts was $15 (2 brushes plus shipping & handling).

It's been more than 100 miles after the fix and the lights are still off, what a relief to see that I have not spent a dime to the dealership on this

Long live the forum :)

That's all I wanted to say... thank you guys !!!
+

After reading this thread and having similar codes, I checked the K25 relay and made sure that all my sensors were seated properly. I want to check my brushes and I read this thread 3 times on my phone but I think I missed something. How do I get the unit apart to check the brushes? Is there a How To on opening the unit and what to solder? Can the car be driven without the pump in while I work on it? What are the part numbers of the brushes? I see the link but I wasn't sure which ones they were to purchase.
 

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99 ML430 / 92 190E Sportline
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508 Posts
Mine just lighted today but the light is ETS/BAS ESP
do you think this is thesame problem? Please help
 

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2 Posts
K25 have 2 small leads and 2 larger leads. 2 small leads connect to relay driver. 1 larger leads connect to the battery and one to the terminal of the pump. There are 2 ways to check the brushes:

1. At the K25 socket, measure resistance with a ohm meter from ground (negative) to the terminal which connect to the pump. The resistance reading should be in the ohm range. The read is more than a few ohm means the brushes are worn out.
2. Also at K25 socket, ignition key is off, short the 2 larger terminal. You should hear the pump running in the front of the car, driver side. No humming noise means the brushes are worn out.

Note: However, when the brushes are worn out, they may sometimes make contact to the rotor of the pump. Therefore, the pump still runs and the three lights are off.

After you are sure the brushes are worn out. Remove the pump for ABS control valve unit to replace the brushes:
1. Remove the driver side head lamp unit to access to the bolts of the windsheild cleaner reservoir.
2. You only need to pull up the reservoir to get some space to take out the pump.
3. Unscrew the bolts that hold the pump to ABS control valve unit.
4. Prise the rotor from the magnetic housing to separate the two as you see in the picture somewhere in this thread. Note: the magnetic field will pull the rotor back to the housing. Try not to damage jelly O-ring which insulates the rotor and the housing.
5. Remove the brush for it guides without damage the hold-down pins.
6. When cutting off the cabon block from the copper conductor, you must have long enough lead to solder the new brush so that it can move freely in the guide.

Brush part number: I found the right brush on a website Back- And Side-Shunted Brushes out of California. The part number L5-5H

You still can drive the truck without the pump working. The brakes are still work without the benifit of ABS, tracking control, and stability control.

It takes time and patience to remove the brushes without damage something, so that you can reuse the pump. Have fun and enjoy the fruit of your labor.
 

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2000 ML430, 174K miles, running LPG
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5 Posts
Hi - my first post on here, and an addition to an old thread, but hoping someone can help me

I've got the dreaded three lights mentioned in this thread - they usually come on after I drive off, when my speed is up to 10-15mph

After reading the thread, I've removed the motor from the ABS unit, as I felt that my symptoms were pointing towards worn brushes

Once removed from the car and on the bench, I decided to test the motor before pulling it apart by connecting it up to a 12v battery with a couple of leads and spade clips

To my surprise, it span up straight away, and changing the polarity made it spin the opposite way, so it seems that my motor maybe isn't the culprit

Is it worth pulling the motor apart to check the brushes anyway, or if they were 'that' worn, surely the motor wouldn't run??

My thoughts are turning maybe towards the ABS sensors?, particularly as the lights don't come on until I'm moving?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated :)
 

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W210, W211, W163
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274 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Hi - my first post on here, and an addition to an old thread, but hoping someone can help me

I've got the dreaded three lights mentioned in this thread - they usually come on after I drive off, when my speed is up to 10-15mph

After reading the thread, I've removed the motor from the ABS unit, as I felt that my symptoms were pointing towards worn brushes

Once removed from the car and on the bench, I decided to test the motor before pulling it apart by connecting it up to a 12v battery with a couple of leads and spade clips

To my surprise, it span up straight away, and changing the polarity made it spin the opposite way, so it seems that my motor maybe isn't the culprit

Is it worth pulling the motor apart to check the brushes anyway, or if they were 'that' worn, surely the motor wouldn't run??

My thoughts are turning maybe towards the ABS sensors?, particularly as the lights don't come on until I'm moving?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated :)

Even though it may be an ABS sensor, it could as well be the ABS pump too. Just because it turned when you tested it doesn't mean they are not on their last leg. I did the same test on mine when I had the problem and the motor would turn on, but after driving for a few minutes the lights would come on. The brushes still make contact but that contact is very weak and it randomly works. It actually works better when the brushes are cold and worse when they get warmer. That was my finding. If you went that far, I would just pull out the abs motor and inspect the brushes, so that you can eliminate that case. From what you describe the brushes could still be your problem. Since that's doesn't cost you any $, I would start with that.
 

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2000 ML430, 174K miles, running LPG
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5 Posts
Even though it may be an ABS sensor, it could as well be the ABS pump too. Just because it turned when you tested it doesn't mean they are not on their last leg. I did the same test on mine when I had the problem and the motor would turn on, but after driving for a few minutes the lights would come on. The brushes still make contact but that contact is very weak and it randomly works. It actually works better when the brushes are cold and worse when they get warmer. That was my finding. If you went that far, I would just pull out the abs motor and inspect the brushes, so that you can eliminate that case. From what you describe the brushes could still be your problem. Since that's doesn't cost you any $, I would start with that.
Thanks for the quick reply - the motor is still on the bench, so I'll pull it apart tomorrow morning and check the brushes

Any tips for pulling it apart? - keen not to damage the O-ring by prising it - shaft in a vice and pull it that way?

I had the car scanned for a different fault a little while ago at a MB Indie here in the UK and he said the ABS pump was faulty as opposed to the ABS sensors.....but the motor spinning like a little top just threw me somewhat :)
 

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W210, W211, W163
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274 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
If you have a vice you should be able to pull it without damaging it. I did a bit of damage to mine and it sill was very functional.

I know it could be very confusing, especially because it may turn.

I would not say, don't trust it, until you see it.
I would say trust it, but inspect it.
 

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2000 ML430, 174K miles, running LPG
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5 Posts
If you have a vice you should be able to pull it without damaging it. I did a bit of damage to mine and it sill was very functional.

I know it could be very confusing, especially because it may turn.

I would not say, don't trust it, until you see it.
I would say trust it, but inspect it.
Thanks again

Just a thought, but when I replaced my front brake pads recently (I'd obviously left it a bit too long :eek:) both pad wear sensors were FUBAR'd

I haven't replaced them as yet - I can't see that these would trigger the ABS warning light, but just trying to eliminate all options?
 

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W210, W211, W163
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274 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
It can't be that. The pad wear sensor and ABS have two different connections. I am sure that is not your problem. Hope this helps.
 

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99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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22,517 Posts
I would look at the wheel speed sensors and follow them to where they attach going into
the shell of the truck. They can get full of crud and corrosion at that connection. If that
is the issue they can be cleaned up at that connection and re-used. It has worked for
many members.
 

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2000 ML430, 174K miles, running LPG
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5 Posts
I would look at the wheel speed sensors and follow them to where they attach going into
the shell of the truck. They can get full of crud and corrosion at that connection. If that
is the issue they can be cleaned up at that connection and re-used. It has worked for
many members.
Thanks - I'll have a look at that later on

Going to pull the motor apart this morning to check the condition of the brushes, so at least that can be eliminated (or not)

Got to take the car in to the local garage today anyway for him to do some fault finding on the LPG conversion, so will ask him to log whatever codes come up when he scans the car and report back :)
 

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2000 ML430, 174K miles, running LPG
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5 Posts
Quick update - after stripping the ABS motor, the brushes were worn (or at least one of them was, the other had a good 10mm to go before the wire reached the bottom of the slider) but with the motor spinning away on the bench, I decided to put it back on the car and do a slightly less technical test.....;)

I'm fortunate that we live in the country, so fired up the car, 3 lights of doom went out, out of the driveway, up to 15mph and the lights came back on as 'normal'

Out onto a nice long (and deserted) lane, up to 60 mph, stamp on the brakes :).....guess what??...slight tyre chirp, but brought to a standstill quickly and safely - so I concluded that the result of my incredibly technical test was that my ABS was physically working, even if the 'computer said no'

So I turned my attention to the relays (as this seemed to be the quickest thing to check and eliminate)

Fortunately, there's about 4 other identical relays in the fuse box, so a quick chop and change, off down the road, up to 15mph...no lights....20mph, 30mph...no lights

Chop and change the relays back to check it wasn't just badly sited to start with and 15mph later, lots of lights back on :)

So it looks like I've been 'lucky', and I thank the collective knowledge of all those on these boards for helping me to solve the mystery :D
 

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ML 320 - 2000
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11 Posts
I have been searching this forum for many hours and tried several tips on my 2000 ML320 101k miles. I keep getting the ABS/ETS/BAS lights come on randomly. Well, I could drive for a while and they may not come on or come on a few seconds after a start. It seems that they are more related to the outside temperature, because it is a sure thing they come on when it is very hot outside (and humid, its MD).
Now I have tried a few things but still get these lights coming on.
The things I have tried so far are:
1. New brake switch from the MB dealer.
2. exchange the battery with my E320 which is much newer.
3. exchanged the K25 relay several times with other ones in the fuse box.

So far, I still get the lights coming on. I have a Carsoft and scanned the codes and I get code:
C1401 High Pressure Return Pump Circuit Open/Shorted; Will Not Shut Off

Oh, I also jumped relay K25 contacts and made the ABS pump motor manually turn on, and it worked.

Any ideas what could be the problem? I am running out of ideas. Well, I am thinking to open up the ABS module and check the connections there make sure they are ok, as that also seems a common problem. Could it be that?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
How do you jump the K25 switch?
 

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See my sig
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68 Posts
I have the same 3 lights of doom. My MB tech ran Star Diagnostics...says its the ABS pump (pressure regulator) and it'll cost my almost $2000 to fix (including labor).

On a scale of 1 to 10...1 being easy and 10 being hard, how difficult is this DIY to do? I do have tools and some guts to try.

Also, how many brushes in total are there in the ABS pump unit?

Pete
 
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